jbooker82

Thanks for the heads up.

I have a Direct Drive lockup on my banshee. It I have a modded shift star, with shift pro kit. It shifts fine. The thing I like about a lockup is that you dont have to use heavy springs. I shift with out the clutch when just doing normal riding. Another thing I like about it is this. It will allow your clutch to slip a little bit out of the hole on a 2nd gear launch. When Idling in gear or reving in gear at the starting line with the clutch pulled in. The lockup is bolted to the pressure plate / inner hub. The inner hub is conected to the transmission so the lockup is stationary and not turning. The basket is driven by the crank and rotates the fibers. Since the lockup isnt turing you rely on the clutch spring pressure for the first little bit out of the hole, until the lockup gets up to speed. So if your running oem springs it will slip a tiny bit out of the hole.

Klotz Flex Drive 30 and Silkolene Comp Gear are the two oils I have found that do not get dirty as fast as other oils that I have tried, including 10w30 wet clutch approved engine oil, atf, belray gear saver, and honda hp 80wt. The Silkolene is kind of hard to find but it is a Semi Synthetic Ester blend that is even approved for aluminum plates. Do not run the Pro SRG75 it is to thick and is made more for street bike transmissions, and Harly Transmissions. http://www.silkoleneusa.com/gear_oil.aspx?SECTION_OBJ_ID=1048908 Klotz Flex Drive 30 http://www.klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KL%2D506%5FQuart&cat=4 http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=79&submit2=View Ethire way I would run a oil that is specifically designed for 2 stroke transmission over atf type F, or a regular 10w30 engine oil (oil must be approved for wet clutch systems). Just make sure it is for 2 stroke transmissions. You need a staight weight oil. If it is 80w90 or 75w140 that is a hypoid gear oil wich will be to thick. It is designed for differentails.

I had a shaved flywheel and got rid of it. It made it bog way easier off the line. If you want a motor that SOUNDS fast then shave the flywheel. You also risk having the flywheel come appart if it isn't done correctly. As for the Ricky Stator flywheel stay as far away from that as possible. I had one and had a rivit head shear off. There have been others with this problem too.

Look up "decokeing 2 stroke pipes" on the net. You heat the pipe up with a toarch and tap it to knock the carbon loose. It will damage a chrome finish but if yiur getting them redone why not. Just don't dint the pipe.

That is what I did with my regualr PWK's. I did keep the line that comes off the bottom of the bowl long. If your float sticks that is where the fuel spills out.

I believe ISO Heat also has an aditive to help with cold starting. (Permotes evaporation of fuel in a cold engine.)

I would be more worried about the bore not being straight after rapid heating and cooling.

No those drain the coolant from the cylinders and head. That way if you need to pull the head you wont get coolant down in to the engine. Cause when you pull the hoses off there is still coolant in the cylinders, and a little in the cylinder head.

I just fill mine up. Put the cap on, rev it a couple times, take the cap off and top it off. Then run it up to operating temp ( just ride it). Then check the coolant level after the first ride. By that time all the air should be worked out.

No you dont have to bleed the radiator. You only have to bleed radiators on cars where parts of the cooling system are higher than the coolant fill neck. All the air in the banshee's coolant system will work its way to the filler neck.

No you wont see any power increase when wraping the expansion chambers. Half of the hp gain claimed by header wrap companys is due to the fact that they lower the temperature of the air under the hood of automobies. This in turn lowers the intake air temp wich helps the engine make more hp. I would just sand blast your pipes then paint them with VHT Flame Proof paint. They make a primar to help the paint stick, it is made especially for exhaust temps. I think up to 1200 or 1500 deg.

I would run turbo blue over av fuel. Race fuel is blended for maximum performance on the surface. AV gas is made to run at high altitudes as in an air plane in the air. That and air plane engines run at a way lower rpm.

Yep usually when you buy a USED banshee it has been well used, beat down and broke. Most people only replace what needs to be replaced. That gives them a few kicks of fun but it usually runs out quick. You got to fix it right the first time. It costs more up front but is it worth runining riding trips? You also have to do the work right. You can throw all the new parts at it you want but if it isnt done right it wont last.

I consider it normal for the bansshe to do that when the engine is cold. The oil is thick and the clutch plates and fibers are dry. So naturally the fibers and steels drag. It should not do it when it is fully warmed up. It does take a little bit for the transmission oil to warm up.

So what your saying is you improperly adjusted the needle clip position (wich affects 1/4 to 3/4 throttle) to correct a rich main jet (main affects 3/4 to WOT). When your jetting carbs you start at the top and work down. Main jet, needle clip position, pilot jet, then air screw. You will probaby end up in the 152 main range with a #48 pilot jet.

Here is loco's port matched cases that fast done. I didnt go out that far. I just went out a little ways then tapered the top out farther to match the cylinder. You dont want to opean them up to far and make them larger / wider than the cylinder. That will cause the opposite affect where the cylinder is narrower than the top case. That will cause a flat lip to protrude out and is wose for performance than having the cylinders wider than the top case. The air flowing up to the cylinders will catch the flat lip and cause turbulance. Also make sure to use the dowles to locate the gasket on the cylinders for trimming. Then use the dowls on the case half to locate the gaskets for marking.

When I did mine I did both. I went in a little ways then angled the top. Lay the gasket on the bottom of the cylinders then trim it. Then lay the gasket on the case and use the gasket as a template. Use a black sharpie marker to mark what needs removed.

Also we dont know what type of porting was done. A less agressive port job will favor the t5' 6's and fmf's over the cpi's and shearer's.

Your refering to the side transfer ports right? Yea you can match that up. That is what is usually refered to as case porting, and is worth a couple of hp on a ported banshee. Be carefull on the flywheel side. It is kind of thin and you can grind a hole right through the cases.

A banshee that is properly jetted, and has a good top end should fire right up. If you have to pull starter it then you have problems. If you ignore these problems it will just cost you more money down the road.

T5's are perfictly capable of supporting a dune port. They are a mid to top end pipe so why wouldnt they be good for a port job that is mid to top. They wont have as much pull on the top end as CPI's but they will have a better midrange.

I think scrap weight is like 10-15 cents a pound.

Look at it this way. A 4mill gives you a greater midrange so you can go more agressive on the porting to gain more power on the top end with out giving up the midrange.

I have a FAST dune port and it is very trail ridable. My trails do have a few tight spots but it is very managable with my CPI's and PWK 33's. I guess I dont try to get 4 stroke bottom end out of a 2 stroke. The dune port just takes the banshee up a step.