jbooker82

Yea you can spend the 500 for the cylinders then pay some one another 300 for port work. Or you could buy a 4 mill crank and have your stock cylinders ported and have a way better engine. I would do a ported 4 mill over a pair of ported vito's cylinders.

Encinitas, CA http://herrjugsracing.com/index.html

Your right cubs are not the best for general riding. So nethire is a stock cylinder that is ported for drag racing. People get caught up in HP numbers. On a 2 stroke if you want more hp, then the power is going to be higher in the RPM's and it will have a narrower power band. You cant get something for nothing. If you want top end then you give up bottom end. There is no MAGICAL cylinder out there that will have the torque of a tractor and the top end of a Cub. A 4mill stroker crank helps out this delima. It gains are in the mid range. So you can build a machine with an awesome mid range. Or you can give up some of the mid range in exchange for top end, and still have a better mid range than with a stock stroke crank, and more top end to boot. It helps in your quest to have the best of both worlds. I would go for a FAST Dune / Play port. One builders Trail port could be another Builder's dune port. That is why it is important to do buisness with some one who knows what they are doing.

I think I would spring the extra 200 bucks and get a cub cylinder and be at 90 hp out of the box with no porting.

Ask the guy doing the work. No one knows his work like him. I would imagine a the difference is in where the power kicks in. A dune port gives up bottom end to gain midrange and top end. It will have a pretty good, hard hit in the midrange. A TT port will be smooth so you dont spin the tires and loose traction. TT motors need to be fast but they have to be smooth so you dont blow the tires off.

I wouldn't. The rings are only half the issue. The pistons have ring lands cut in to them. They need to have right clearances inbetween the rings and pistons. You can just throw stuff together. Ethire run wsm pistons and rings or Wiseco pistons and rings.

I duro Hookups in the front. They are a 6ply RADIAL tire. I run the on my raptor and eventually will get some on my banshee. They are a knock of version of the Maxxis I Razr.

Not nessessarly take it appart and see how it looks. Melted pistons are caused from detonation, or excessivly lean. Lean can be caused by improper jetting, or an air leak. That is why you need to pressure test the engine when it is put back together.

All I had to do was shim the front hanger out about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in the front. CPI's to huge the pod air filters. I just run a cascade heat wrap on the LH stiner tube. The outerwear lays against it and it doesnt even get warm. Fit around the pingnel and carb top is fine. Spark plug access isnt the best but it is managable.

Keihin PJ34&36's, PWK 33's, 35's, 39's, 35 air striker's all use the same main, pilot, and needles. PWK33's and 35's jet pretty close.

Yea say away from ricky stator. That is what brand my flywheel pictured was. The rivits loosend up and one sheared off.

well since your going to get a new flywheel and puller just install the messed up puller in the flywheel, then weld it. When you get it to pop off throw it all away. Or you could get a cut off wheel and start cutting. When you get the flywheel cut off take the cut off wheel and cut a slit along the inner hub of the flywheel. The puller should be able to pull it off then. I would say away from RS or RM stator. There stuff is crap. Here is a Ricky Stator Flywheel I ran.

Make sure the carb slides are in sync as well.

Mine has never leaked a drip. I didn't even use any sealer. Just a lot of Teflon tape on the threads. Make sure you don't tear up the sealing surface when your cutting the tank. You guys that have leaks did you first install the valve with no sealer at all in between the tank and valve? Most sealers are not gasoline proof. Gasoline will dissolve and deteriorate RTV, and Ultra Coper, Ultra Black, and regular silicone.

sorry ment to say ISN'T

Trinity Racing is what it use to be, or so I have been told. If you wanting to buy parts from them then they are ok, but for porting the cylinders I would steer clear.

I doubt your going to get your money back. They will probably want to exchange them.

You know anybody that admits to doing a non show chrome? Its all show chrome when your getting your wallet out. You want the real deal you got to pay the cash with some one reputable. Take a look in to the past of the shady chrome jobs by CPI, and Shearer. You really think it has gotten better? If you want a real chrome job then look at Cascade. Here are my cascade cpi's. They look this good today. Not even any blueing.

That setup would also be like the rekluse clutch for the 450's only you dont have to be accelerating to keep it locked up. You can ride a rekluse at 1/2 throttle. josh

That is true but the Bel Ray Gear Saver 75w, 80w, and 85w's have an engine oil viscosity from 10w30 to 10w40. Some time shake a quart of Gear Save 75w then shake a quart of 10w30. The gear saver isnt thick like the weight numbers emply. ATF is thiner but it gets dirty faster.

That is what happens when you use an oil designed for car engines. You can run yamalube 10w30. If you run engine oil then you need to make sure it is wet clutch compatable. You get better shifting with an oil that is made for a 2 stroke transmission though.

I believe the poster ment that as a complement as in it is all bing, not the fact that your using all cascade bolt on parts. Most of there bikes have a pc'ed frame and everything else is chrome or polished.

If your in gear with the clutch pulled in the lockup doesnt spin. It is bolted to the inner hub, wich is on the transmission input shaft. How can the transmission input shaft turn when it the banshee is stoped, in gear with the clutch pulled in. So at inital launch your relying on the clutch spring pressure to compress the clutch pack until the lockup gets up to speed.

Yea but most light duity manual transmissions in cars and pickups specify ATF. No oil pump, no clutches just gears to lubercate. There is no way I would run a SAE 30 weight oil. That isnt even recomend for most engines (other than small yard equipment) built after the 50's or 60's. Just use a oil that is SPECIFICALLY designed for a 2 stroke tranmission. You can put just about any kind of oil in the transmission and it wont lock up.

Here is a posting tip for you. Next time go to your original thread and do a reply with: TTT = To The Top or Bump. This will bring your post back up to the top. HENCE TTT. Now we have 4 posts about wicked a arms and dust covers.