jbooker82

Just about any extended warranty is a rape job. Extra cash goes in to the dealers pocket. Just like going to buy a new car. Every body has to get there shot at making money. First it is the sales man. Then when you go to the finance department they try to sell you Gap Insurance, and Extended warrenty. This last time I bought a car they even said they approved me for a loan at 9% intrest. Then they acted all cool and said that I could get a loan at 6% but I would be REQUIRED to have gap insurance, but it was no big deal because my paymeant would still be a little lower than at 9% with no gap insurance. I told them to scew off, get the loan for 6% with no GAP insurance or the deal is off. Then mysteriously they got it done.

Are you sure you flywheel is a OEM Yamaha one, and not a ricky stator / rm stator knockoff version?

Air box with larger carbs is a big pain in the butt. I ran my stock one for a while but got tired of trying to wedge the carbs in there. POD's are much easier.

That is pretty nasty, I wouldnt have called that in good condition. Diffinatly some thing that should have been disclosed before you bought them.

And that would also not be covered by a warrenty, because it is neglect. If you just dump regular gas with no oil in the tank and burn the engine down would that be covered under warrenty? Yamha wouldnt cover the 01 Raptors that had bad transmission design. They claimed rider error, but mysteriously the design changed in 02. Keep us informed on how it works out for you.

It doesnt matter. They are probably going to deny you. When they tear the engine down and find dirt and sand what do you think they are going to say? It is stuff like this that causes companys to deny legitimate claims. Do you think they were born yesterday? Yamaha's warrenty is only 6 months. Unless you bought the extend warrenty.

Yea I would probably run it. I just dont like using any oil that is for Injectors. Injector oil is thin so it can be pumped. So your buying premix oil that is already diluted down vs a super thick oil like Klotz.

That doesnt really fix it. It doesnt matter if you cut it off. If a spring is compressed by 50 lbs of pressure cutting coils off just shortens the spring. It will still take 50 lbs of pressure to compress. You need a spring that is made up of thinner wire, and has less tension. If you needed your shocks softer you can't just cut a coil off. It will just make it bottom out faster, lower the ride hight, it will still be just as stiff. I run the FAST EZ pull springs. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=119

Give jeff at FAST a call. He is a good guy. It is a good thing you didn't port your cylinders then. Port jobs for a stock stroke and 4 mill are different. Most of the time once you port for a stock stroke you can't have them reported for a 4mill.

Like they said. They tried to do tear downs but the owners refused. If you dont have anything to hide, why hide? I think the problem is that it is a 1 time deal. After the races every body dissapears and isnt seen again until next year. If you tried pulling that stuff at your local drag track where you ran ever weekend you would be banned from competing. Maybe it would help if they didnt let every tom dick and harry compete. If they have never herd of you, never seen your banshee run, you dont compete regulary you can't compete in offical races. If you dont have any Credit, then you dont have any Credibility so you dont race.

Do your self a favor and Dont Buy a Ricky Stator. They are nothing but junk. I went through 3 of them trying to get one to run right. My banshee would run bad on the top end. It just sounded crusty. I chased jetting all over the place. I swaped back to an oem stator and the problem was solved. I would hate to be shipping stators back and fourth from Germany to USA trying to get a good one. The Yamaha one is the only way to go. Most stators come from the same Crap hole manufacture in 3rd world ASIA so it doesnt matter what brand you get they are all junk. If you absolutly have to have a high wattage stator then get a Ricks Motorsport Electric stator. They are supose to be good quality and Manufactured in the USA, not china. They have 2 circuits though. So you have to urn dual volage regulators. Here is a ricks stator (not to be confused with ricky stator) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-YFZ-350-ENGINE-MAGNETO-STATOR-95-04_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2846935eQQitemZ400107672414QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

4mill cranks is deffinatly worth it, especially if your going to buy a new crank. FAST sells the Hot Rods 4mill long rod crank for $435. You will need the folowing. #1Have your cylinder head cut or run a cool head with stroker domes. (piston pops up 2mm farther with a 4 mill crank) #2Wiseco 795 Series Pistons (they have the wrist pin moved up 5mm closer to the piston dome. Long rod crank has conecting rods that are 5mm longer than stock. This lowers the angle between the crank and conecting rod wich makes for less side load on the piston skirts.) #3 A port job is what makes the 4 mill crank really shine. That is where the power is at. A stock stroke ported engine will run faster and harder than a non ported 4mill. I would go for a FAST 4mill Dune port. It has a super strong midrange that keeps on pulling.

I can see it happing. Some one that cant ride that still wants to win runs a 10mill stock cylinder in a stock stroke stock cylinder class.

Yep don't hook it up to the coil. Even Dynatek says not to. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/support/dynatek_faq.aspx#610

Not just any plastic one. A TM Design Works is the only one to get. It is also brased against the crank case.

The folding tip is not needed if you have nerf bars. It keeps sticks from catching the shift lever and tearing stuff up. It will fold and let the stick slide on by. They are more commonly used on dirt bikes. I had an IMS shifter on my raptor and hated it. It was soft and would eventually be bent against the engine. I also took some expoxy putty and folded the shifter tip back. Jamed the epoxy putty in there. That way it would be a solid tip.

His does have the long thread adaptor, but the broblem is the adaptor has a long hole that goes up to the schrader valve in the main adaptor. That long tube also adds volume. Click the link there are pic's explaining. josh

That wouldnt surprise me.

If it looks like this one then that is your problem. Any air space that is before the shrader valve in the end of the hose is added volume to your combustion chamber. There for you dont get an accurate reading. This explains it all. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70901&view=&hl=compression gauge&fromsearch=1

What does the end that threads in to the spark plug hole look like?

No you can get away with +4 timing and 150 psi of compression on pump premium fuel. I think this guys gauge is off and he is really over the limit. That is why he is having detonation and plugs backing out. josh

Yea no. I would say a t5 would make a better drag pipe, but still not a good one. CPI's or Shearers.

I would bet it is pretty hard to hear on a banshee. Here is a clip. You can bearly hear it. It sounds like marbles rattling around on top of the pistons. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Due7mkTHMlw

I doubt your saving any money. They are going to charge you the same. Your not paying for x amount of hours at 50 bucks an hour shop rate. Your paying for there KNOWLEDGE, not the physical labor involved. If anything you can be ruining your cylinders by not knowing what your doing.

Verry Pricy With VP your paying for the name. They do make good fuel but I found Sunoco 110 or Turbo Blue 110 to run just as good at half the price. I get a 55 gal drum of turbo blue for 300 bucks.