jbooker82

I would also run a Dyna Coil. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/atvs/coil_kits/

I have been going on 3 years with my Nology Coil and Hot wires. It isnt a stock replacement. You will have to make a bracket to mount it. A small pice of angle Iron works good. I dont have any experiance buy guys say they are worth a couple HP. I did notice my banshee started easier than with the OEM Yamaha. One of the nice things is that the wires are not molded in to the coil. The coil has 2 terminals that the wires snap on. Just like the spark plugs. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=46

Dave Moore Racing would be an Oregon local too. There are a some good banshee builders up there in the NW. http://www.davemooreracing.com/

Not a site sponcer but a good guy is Dan Wade aka Patriot Racing. He doesnt build engines full time but more as a hobby. I had a pair of cylinders ported by him. Good guy to deal with. Patriot Racing is located at Bonney Lake, WA. http://www.patriotracing.net/

What can I say

I thought you could run +1 over stock. I run TM's whole ball of wax on my banshee. Front swing arm guide, power lip rollers, rear roller chain guide, case saver. I think it will save you a few bucks if you get the kit, and add on the case saver. josh

Gut and drill out your fuel cap for the hell of it. If your running one of those little breather cap hoses (aluminum valve on 1-2 inches of hose) throw that in the trash. Take the petcock out of the tank to make sure it is clean and not full of crap. It has a fine screen just like a fuel filter. I would go a head and clean the tank out while you have it drained, off and fuel valve out. When I cleaned mine there was sand about half way up the reserve tube. Maybe consider getting a dual pingnel. It flows way more fuel than the stock one and has a fuel line for each carb. Down side is that there is no reserve.

Yea I can see that happening with an aluminum one that just bolts to the neutral switch with no bracing. Thats why in my mind there is only one choice for a case saver. TM Design Works.

They use the same head pipes so just get what ever type of silencer you want. Are you really willing to run a silencer that you dont like the look of just because it sounds cool?

there you go that is probably the best offer your going to get. josh

Yea you can get a new hot rods 4mill for 435 from jeff at fast. It is cheaper to buy a new crank that it is to even replace a bad bearing. I would just say it is junk.

Jeff at FAST. www.farmandsandtoys.com He is a great guy to deal with. Always very helpfull, and builds some fast banshee's. Dont over bore it to get cc's all your doing is wasting the cylinder bore's. There isnt really much hp to gain by boreing. Do a 4 mill crank if you can afford it. Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank they cannot be ported for a 4 mill. jeff has hot rod 4mill long rod cranks for 435. Then you will need a cool head with stroker domes. josh

Best chain slider, rolers, and rear guid out there is TM Design works. The rolers have a lip on them that help guid the chain. The rear guid also has 2 rollers so there is less drag. All the plastic is oil impregnated so it has less drag and extends the life of the parts. The down side is that it is more expensive. You can buy parts seperate too. Rollers. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=189_191_179&products_id=317 Front swing arm slider. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_97&products_id=122 Rear guide. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_182&products_id=332 Whole Kit. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=204_203&products_id=373

Not even that. There isnt any regulation against porting. Just engine size IE bore and Stroke. You can measure stroke with a tool going through the spark plug hole. Just measuer how far it is from bottom dead center to top dead center. Then just pop the head off and use a bore gauge to determine the bore. The jugs would say on the cases.

Yea I dont know what the deal is. I dont use the tach any way because it is to hard to read. I do like how it keeps the max rpm though. You could have kept the vapor. Maybe your top end would have lasted longer. You would think do beat on it until the engine was warmed up. 6000 RPM on an engine operating at below 100 deg isn't real good on it.

No it can be where ever. As long as there is coolant in the bottle it will pull fluid back in to the radiator as it cools down. Just like using a straw.

that is the biggest plus right there. Distance to Empty.

My vapor would blink out or reset right as my banshee would hit the power band. I did the 9 volt battery trick and still got interfearance until I switched from runing non resistor B8ES plugs to Resistor BR8ES plugs. I tried everthing to get the interfreance to stop. Running it with out the tach hooked up. Wich there was enough electrical interfearence and I still got an accurate tach reading. Running it by the internal battery only. Trail tech said that some times the battery vibrates and that is what was causing the blinking out or reseting. So I put a little piece of paper towel to make the batter fit tighter. I tried all those things in multiple combos and nothing helped. The switch from B8ES to BR8ES did the trick. It was the last thing I tried and it worked. So I ditched the 9 volt battery and hooked it up to the stator and it has been running fine off that with no issues for 2 years now. FYI I am running a nology coil and hot wires, I would imagine a hoter spark would make for more electrical interfearance too.

Yea somethig with a seat and cage is still fun to ride in the dunes. I drove a 660 rhino sport last time we whent to LS, OK. It is a totaly different feeling, but deffinatly doesnt replace my banshee.

Yep and it would be an expensive turd if alba did any porting. An Alba ported banshee vs. a Trinity Ported banshee would be a good race to watch.

It is like anything over budget and late. It is a lot easier and cheaper to build it right the fist time. Looks good and should be a fun ride, but good luck.

They would have stuck out farther but I also trimed the silencer body down 1.5 inch. The hole that held on the cpi's end cap would have caused the tip to be crooked so they needed to be re drilled any way.

I guess that is good. Did you notice any backfiring through the carb before it quit running? The only time I broke reed peadles is when it sneezed or back fired through the carb. It actually blew the broken reed peadle back in to the air filter. Then it only ran on one cyinder real lazy and was pulling air in through the exhaust pipe.

I believe you just put the slider over the tube and have the metal finger lay on top of the swing arm.

I put a set of Trinity Spark arrestors on my CPI's because I didnt like the look of the clamp on sparkies. The trinity silencer body was made out of the same size tubing. The core was larger on my cpi's so I just drilled the spark arrestor's end cap out. Even put a step back in to it so the core wouldn't slide out. There wasnt much room for error bacuse the back side is all machined out so you have to center it up in a drill press pretty good.