jbooker82

Most guys shoot for an .040 clearance. That is for a stock stoke or 4mill. The .080 is your problem. It is to large.

I have one. When I first got my banshee, bought it used it has a 200w ricky stator on it. The previos owner had bought it and put it on. It was probably 5 or 6 years ago. It ran fine no problems whats so ever. I though I would try to get a little more lighting out of it by running one of there HD flywheels. They have stronger magnets and produce better voltage at a lower rpm. Then this happend. The rivis loosend up. One head sheared off and stuck to the out side of the flywheel. When it came around through the pickup coil it destroyed it. So the only good RS product I had was ruined by there crappy flywheel. You bet the did send me a nother flywheel and stator but the stator had problems just like all there new junk stators. I never even put the flywheel on, just sold it on ebay. RS cant even keep a flywheel together let alone have stators that work right. I will never run one of there products again.

Direct Drive only. They are the only ones who cast a whole new clutch cover. Everyone else machines a stock cover and welds, and epoxies on the extension ring. Jeff at FAST has DD lockup clutches and covers. The only other option with a new cover is a billit one, but those are really expensive. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=317 A sling shot lockup clutch can fit under the stock cover. It uses ball bearings and a ramped floor. So as rpm builds the bearings move out and cause the lockup to expand.

as the weights spin they put more clamping force on the clutch pack. It keeps your clutch from sliping on higher hp motors. Clutch springs can only do so much.

It has to work and be true because Ron Popeil says so.

Yep it is an Infomercial. There product is alway supiror. Foam filters and Tornado's are the way to go I have never found dirt in the intake, carbs, or inside of the filters running K&N's with outerwears. K&N hasn't been in buisness for 40 years selling bad air filters.

10 deg angled pod filters with PWK's and Boss Racing intake. Plenty of room. I just use a Cascade heat wrap on the LH stinger. The 20 deg pods where to angled for my setup.

Yea the DD cover is nice. Deffinatly the way to go. When I got mine is was oringinally a 6 bolt lexan. The lexan would warp over time and it would seep a little transmission fluid. I bought the 12 bolt lexan ring when they came out with it, and no problems. Good to go. 6 bolt. 12 bolt

Cpi pipes isn't a verry good choice for that engine any way. Unless your going to be doing a dune or drag port soon.

I wouldn't get that one. You get a nice flashy lockup, but the cover is a modded factory one. The extension ring is welded or epoxied on. That could cause leaks. Direct drive sells a bran new cast cover that is extended. The lexan cover also looks different. It is a 7 bolt. Direct drive started out with 6 bolt lexan. Then they changed to a 12 bolt lexan. The 6 bolt lexan would warp and leak a little. If you really want a flashy lockup, buy the Direct Drive Lockup. Take it appart and send the lockup body to some one that does custom paint ball marker anodizing. I woulnt buy some thing that is flashy over one that is proven.

You will get more performance gain putting pipes on it than running stock pipes and a 4mill.

The domes are to be ran with Blaster Pistons. The banshee piston has more of a crown vs the flatter blaster piston. You need domes cut for what ever type of piston your going to be running, other wise power will suffer.

Mine consistanly runs 180-200. When it is hot out it can get up to 220 wich is fine. I shut it down / point the radiator in to the wind and let it idle at 230 or so. Running an engine at to cold of a temp is just as bad for it as over heating. Those temps are meaured right at the head outlet with my trail tech vapor. If you measuring it at the radiator cap then you readings might be lower than the actuall engine temp.

Yea that is going to be your best bet. You might need a bore or you might not. It is a good thing you pull the head and I would say a top end is in order. Thats why you never know. Make sure you run straight race fuel, and do a compression check after you break the top end in. Record when you did it and how much it was. That way you have a base line and time line for future referances. josh

Well it depends on what your elevation is. Ethier way with 130 psi of compression it should start.

I would say your jetting is off then. A 2:1 doesnt have a better top end than duals.

Wrong pilot jet will make for hard starting. Bran new stock top end at sea level is supose to be 130/130. I would say your compression is fine if you dont have a cool head. josh

You can check one you have been riding for a while because you have been on the Pilot circuit, Mid range (needle), and Top end (main jet). So you really dont know if you have a rich main, and lean pilot; or a Rich midrange, and a lean main. Both those senerio's might produce a plug that looks perfict chocolate brown. You want to kill the engine grab the clutch, and let off the throttle all at the same time. That way you come to a stop with out the engine turning over. Dont cost for ever or you will weld the ball and rod. Hit the brakes. josh

The 2 stoke days are numbered. Honda you cannot get a CR250 or CR125. Suzuki you can still get a RM250 but not a RM125 Yamha you can get both the YZ250 and YZ125 Kawasaki you cannot get the KX250 or KX125, You can get the KX100, KX85, and KX65

It will bolt up just fine. It will be stiff though. A +4 in arm has more leverage against the shock, so they valve and spring the shock accordingly. So when you put it on a stock length arm it will be setup too stiff. You might call elka and see if they use the same valving and just use a stiffere spring. josh

Install a billit impeller. A larger radiator isnt needed. It is nice I have one because I trail ride and some times there isnt much air flow. Most overheating problems are cause by crap in the radiator. Over time, and not using distilled water you get a build up of Lime, Calcium, and other crap. It is just hard water. Get a bottle of radiator flush (the good stuff from a parts store) Not a week Prestone, or Peak stuff sold at wally world. Drail the coolant, and flush it out with water. Then put the whole bottle of flush in the radiator, and top off the radiator with distilled water. Run that mix for a while. Then drain and flush with distilled water. Then fill with a mix of distilled water, and antifreeze / coolant, or Engine Ice (it is already mixed, do not add water).

I belive they have a sticker on the LH side of the fuel cap that says 91 octane. When I made my 06 LE look a like I even bought that sticker. (even though I run 185 psi of compression, and 110 octane). I am sure it runs fine on 87. Octane requriements change acording to altitude because the engines compression changes. That is why in the mountains there regular fuel has an octane rating of 85 instead of 87.

That would be a bad voltage regulator. You have 12v bulbs. When your banshee is wound up it can produce 25+ volts, that is with a stock or high wattage stator. Check to see if it came unpluged. Most RS and RM stator problems are with the ignition stator coils. It will run real crappy on the top end. Spend all day chasing jetting all over the place with no results.

Wow that is so shocking. RM stator a bad one. You can tell people, and tell people but they wont ever listen. RM Stator is the SAME JUNK as Ricky Stator. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123551&st=0&p=1069920&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry1069920 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122653&st=0&p=1062921&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry1062921 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117005&st=0&p=1019193&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry1019193 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=112293&st=0&p=978527&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry978527 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110370&st=0&p=959533&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry959533 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=104663&st=0&p=903341&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry903341 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96891&st=0&p=835628&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry835628 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97375&st=0&p=839576&hl=ricky%20stator&fromsearch=1entry839576

So you didnt want to ruin your cylinders by gringing on the roof of the transfers. But your willing to run a spacer plate, lower the bottoms of the transfers, and deck the tops of the cylinders 2mm, thus really ruining the cylinders.