jbooker82

That would be the only aftermarket stator company I would trust. There stuff seems to look pretty good. Do they have that nice green thick coating over the coils like the OEM (gray) stators do?

I am just saying that if it is jetted right then there should be nothing to worry about. You dont have to setup overly rich for WOT riding. I am just saying that some people my THINK that there jetting is spot on when in all reality it isnt.

I just figured match the cabs to the pipes. CPI's Mid to Top end. = PWK33's or 35's

It doesnt have to get hot to detonate. I would try some 110 race fuel and see if it still does it. AV gas isnt rated like fuel that is made to be ran on the surface. It is made to be ran in an air plane. You know how just a few 1000 feet affect the compression, and fuel requirements on you banshee. What do you think it does when an air plane climbs a couple 1000 feet? They use fuel mixture (rich) to help fight detonation (wich is the rich octane rateing) at low atlitudes.

If it is jetted correctly you should be able to go out and run WOT with no problems. The problem is that most of your riding you do is on the needle 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. So if your banshee runs fine in a normal off road setting you think all is well and it is dialed 100% in. You verry seldomly run at WOT in an off road setting except for long shots down roads. Well turns out your jetting isnt quite right and you go barling down a road at WOT and blow it up. I dont know how many people have told me that you cant hold a banshee at WOT for more than a few seconds or it will ruin the engine.

Both Maxima and Klotz give waring about seperation at lower temps. The Supertechniplate DOESN'T seperate out. It is 80% synthetic and 20% benol caster oil. I havnt had any issues with it. http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/castor927.asp http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=2&submit2=View http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=44&submit2=View

Jeff's dune ported 4 mill with CPI's is a fun ride. That is what I am running. I would go with PWK 33's for the carbs.

And I said if you want to be in on their learing process and role the dice then go for it. If you want provent results stick with some one who is known for building banshee's, not billit trinkets.

Caster oil seperates out of the fuel around 30-35 deg. Run Klotz Supertechniplate. 80%synthetic 20% benol caster oil. It doesnt seperate out at low temps. As long as the oil doesnt dry and get gummy it should be ok and run through the carbs. When you leave caster oil out it gets real gummy. That is when it starts causing problems. I alwas get on by banshee and shake it side to side standing on the foot pegs just to make sure though

I am just saying they obvesly are not known for building banshee's. They dont have the reputation that: FAST HJR Redline Racing Patriot Racing A&S RDZ K&T Grand River Racing Dave Moore Racing Passion Racing Twister all have for building great banshee engines.

Over torquing, high spot on the cylinders, bad material, or just a weak spot in the head. Might try a noss machine head.

yea because it is flooding out.

The one positive feed back they have is when they were the BUYER and they bought this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260586916666 They bought the above transmission. That is probably the override your buying. Looks like it has been freshly pulled out of the water.

Boring a cylinder and getting it to run is one thing, vs trying to get the power where the customer wants it is another thing. That is where porting experiance comes in to play. I am sure they can do general machine shop stuff pretty well, but I wouldnt trust them with porting.

Have your own done.

For that kind of stuff it is better to stick with some one that is known to be good. Unless you dont mind being an experiament. Everybody has to start some where but it is your engine so it is your desision. I would go with a FAST for engine work, not some one that is known for shiny billit accesories.

500 bucks would have gotten you a nice swing arm from a reputable seller. You can go broke saving money.

I have there pipe clamps for my cpi's. They have 4 orings to seal them up. They work really well, and are built solid.

Why delete it we are just having a discussion / debate. Your absolutely right the only difference it that the High Performance transmissions specify atf which is a light weight oil. The only transmissions that specify are the older transmissions from the 70's (non synchronized) and Heavy Duty (not to be confused with High Performance). Like in semi trucks and maybe 1 or 3/4 ton pickups. The Tremec transmission in my Mustang GT specifies Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF. The newer ones specify a special GM ATF. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402508&S=N That is because it contains a Friction Modifier that keeps the clutches in the limited slip differentials from chattering. This is why it isn't good with a wet clutch. You can buy that additive to be used with any 80w90. You cant say that that is good for a wet clutch because the clutches in a limited slip differential do not ever disengage. The additive keeps them from chattering and causing wheel hop when you turn a corner. So it lets them slip vs. not slipping and you get wheel hop (chirping tires) on your street car as you turn.

The reason why 927 gums stuff up is because of caster oil. Caster oil is a great protecting oil but is comes with concequences it burns dirty. I believe it is mixed with some other oils it isnt 100% caster oil. I run klotz supertechniplate at 40:1 it is 80% synthetic and 20%caster oil. It burns pretty clean for having caster oil.

Molybdenum is the ingredient that causes clutches to slip. That is why you cant just throw any oil in there. Most oils have this ingrediant there for "Not Wet Clutch Approved."

Where does it say that Wiseco Pistons are made in China. By the way Wiseco makes Vito's pistons so you still getting China junk if in deed they are made there.

500 deg engine paint wont hold up. You need duplicolor high heat or vht flame proof paint. They are both designed for headers and have a temp rating up to 1200 or 1500 deg. duplicolor http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html VHT Flame Proof. You wont get any tougher paint than this stuff. http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html

If it is just this stuff then no. http://www.spectro-oils.com/products/transmission/goldengear.asp It isnt a hypoid gear oil. It is a stright weight oil for mc and atv transmissions. They rate gear oil for mc transmissions differently. It is a straight 80w oil. It is comparable to a 10W30 engine oil. Shake a bottle of your 80w gear oil, then shake a bottle of 80w90 gear oil. The gear oil is way thicker.

Because they have much tigher clearances between the bronz bushings and transmission shafts. Car and Pickup manual transmissions are also sycronized and the stiff oil doesnt allow them to function properly. Yea you might get better gear protection with the 80w90 but if it can't get in between the gears and shafts you going to cause the bonz bushings to burn up. The oil will spool up around the gears and not get in between the gears and shafts, when a light oil would. I will stick with my klotz flex drive 30