jbooker82

well it is a good thing you took him to the hospital insted of him wanting to tuff it out at home. Some times it is the stuff you cant see that will do you in.

I think that guy was trying to be a sponcer or was for a short time.

Yep mostly there to keep you scared straight. Not really worth it if you really need them.

I would say a KFX400 or LTZ400 same machine. They are not as fast as the 450's but they have reverse, super easy to steer, a low 1st gear(easier starting / taking off) and have a big comfy seat. If your truly buying an atv for your wife and not a second one for you then you should deffinatly look at these two machines. Big bore atv's are also nice because they can leave them in 2nd or 3rd all day long and not have to do to much shifting.

A modded stock cover will have a 3rd pice. A billit ring that has been welded or epoxied to the stock cover.

Usually shorter on a 2 stroke is an increase in top end. I don't know if you will find much change because the banshee's exhaust is so long. If it was an out frame drag pipe and you cut the singer down then I could see it but not really with an inframe pipe.

Yep they have to be legit spark arrestors or you still run the risk of getting caught. How many times a day do you think they see this stuff. They wernt born yesterday. Plus just slapping a screen in the end of your pipe and craming the end cap back on would cut down on flow. With the a real spark arrestor you have way more surface area of screen so you have better flow. It doesnt take very much packing to plug up a spark arrestor screen.

I would also recomend Klotz Flex Drive 30. It stays clean for quite a while. I would go get 4 quarts of Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F. Flush the transmission out 2 times if it is super nasty. Just dump 2 quarts in no need to be exact. Ride it around a couple of miles then dump it. That way you have a nice clean transmission, and dont ruin good fluid.

the only time I have had a whole peteal break off was when it sneezed back through the carb. That is when it blew the reed petal back in to the air filter.

That is what I did too. Just figured the engine would chew and swallow it. I have also had them break and be blown back in to the air filter so you might check there.

Yea cause then your at risk of leaks, where a New DD cover is a 100%new 1 cast pice.

I have no problem with Scott Grip glue. My Oury grips with Scot grip glue stays on fine. Just make sure your bars are clean. Smear the grip glue on the bar. Then work the grip on the bar. You dont want to just slide it on because that just wipes all the glue off. You need to at least streatch the grip working it back and fourth. Then use 4 zip ties as clamps to hold the grip on tight unitl the glue dries.

I just wouldnt want the possibility of a bent shift fork to ruin a riding trip. My banshee shifts fine with a shift pro kit and a modded star.

Straight cut gears are deffinatly not needed. I would only get an override if your drag racing.

A shaved head and timing plate will give you a boost in midragne. I havent herd of any problems with overheating. You can modd your own stator plate. You just slot the holes so you can turn it. I am sure there is a post on here some where with a how to.

You will get no perfomance gain from removing them. It is more of a convieniance thing. There is no way to do it with out a kit. It comes with new carb caps, throttle cable and stuff to drill / tap new Idle speed adjustment screws. In the banshee world there isnt very much you can do with No money.

7's dont give you a hotter spark. They temperatre of the spark plug runs hotter. A hotter running spark plug can cause pre ignition. You only want to run just hot enough plug to keep it from fouling. Running gasoline all that is needed is 8's. If your fouling plugs then you have a jetting problem not a plug heat range problem. The only time you need to switch heat range of plugs with a banshee is running Methanol. You go 1 step colder to 9's.

Dont you mean R? I was just wondering because I have ran BP8ES and BPR8ES plugs. It is a projected tip spark plug that hangs down a little bit in to the combustion chamber. BR8ES http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=br8es BPR8ES http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bpr8es&x=63&y=14

It can also affect the CDI with electrical interfearance. My 97 banshee specifies B8ES Plugs. I belive the banshee's that have B8ES plugs still have a resistor, it is just in the spark plug caps vs being in the spark plug.

No just leave it at +4 that is what was recomended to me by jeff at fast. I did have a drag ported cylinders by Patriot Racing they recomended +6 deg with race fuel. It is hard to say what compression you need to run 50/50 mixed. Since you can get away with 150 psi on 91 and you run race fuel at 185 psi I would say half way in the middle so around 165.

Yea boost bottles are junk. Get a timing plate (perferably billit) and have your stock head shaved to raise compression.

Yea they are different. Detonation is like a Hard Explosion. Where preignition is just the air fuel igniting to soon due to a hot spot. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detonation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

Yea knock your self out. You want to shoot for around 185 psi of compression for straight 110 race fuel. Makes for a good boost in midrange. You will probaby have to swap domes back out if you ride at a lower elevation.

it does have 2000 in boddy work. Gold Wheels are not cheap.

I just keep a log of compression checks with the same gauge. When I notice a wierd drop you know something is up.