jbooker82

Bare = Buck Naked, no finish no paint.

You need to sell a "Alfie's Toy Box" head. Kind of like these.

If you have a long rod stock stroke then you can run blaster pistons. You will need different domes though. Blaster pistons have a flatter crown and are a little shorter. If your running a long rod 4 mill then you can run blaster pistons. You will need custom domes. They need to be cut for the stroker and be cut at a different angle.

I dont have any experiance running 100 over. I know guys do it. It should be alittle more reliable if your running a stock stroke long rod crank. Give noss a call he can hook you up with the domes. Make sure you get big bore blaster piston doms. The big bore has the o ring moved out a little farther.

Yea but trying to get custom domes from trinity would be a big head ach, they cant get anything right, let alone doing custom work.

Noss Machine Head is a 2 pice head that uses stock studs, best of both worlds. A 2 pice head is better because it allows you to visually check the alignment of the domes. You can set a dome on each cylinder then slide the outer shell on. Line the domes up with locating finger in the outer shell. Then slide the top cover on and button it up. With the one pice head you have to try to keep the domes and o rings in place while you install the whole assembly.

yes you can run blaster pistons, but you will need to get different domes cut. Blaster pistons are a little shorter, and have a flatter crown.

Yea get one from Noss Machine. Dave is a super nice guy. The 2 pice designe is nice for installation. You can set a dome on each cylinder then slide the shell over the studs and visually see that they are lined up right. josh

Yea and a shot of what they look like from behind.

So they kept your money, broken axle with hubs, and your replacement axle. Just as well sent them 900 in the mail, and got nothing in return. That is customer service.

Look at your sig picture. They go from the bottom up.

I have the ishock 3500 kit on my rator. It is just the a arms and brake lines no shocks. There a arms are deffinatly top notch quality. The bottom a arm ball joint is built like a tank.The kit came packaged really well. I would have deffinatly gotten a kit with shocks if I didn't already have works tripple rates.They also have ball joints instead of crappy hiem joints like asr's and full flight. I would say they are a recreation type a arm. Not because the are weak. They are only adjustable camber. Tipping of the top of the wheel in. They are non adjustable caster. Tipping back of the spindle.I believe that most a arms that are labled recreation are called that because of being non caster adjustable, not because they are weak. I think it is a good thing that they are non adjustable caster. If you don't get the caster set right then it will handle bad. Caster is hard to set too. So if your not going to take the time to set it right, why get caster adjustable a arms.

That is cause everybody knows they are the people to go to for Bling. If you want Shearer's or CPI's with great chrome go to them. They buy them bare and have them plateded to their standards.

Are you for sure that your pipes have been delivered, (tracking number)? How have you been in contact? Phone calls, email?

Guess that explains the USFS Approved spark arrestor stamp. When I was running FMF SST's I had power core II (they were on it when I bought my banshee). I had to have a spark arrestor, so I switched to Turbine Core II's. I never noticed a power or sound level drop.

There is nothing wrong with the Prodesign impellers. I have only herd of 2 that had the shaft breaking. It was just probably a year or so ago. It was a fluke thing, and prodesign made it right. I can garuntee you that there is 100x's more prodesign imellers out there than any other brand. Modquads have been known to wear where the seal rides, causing coolant to leak. That has been a while ago. I am sure they fixed it. If I was going to buy one it would be ethire the mull engineering one or the prodesign one. The mull engineering one has a totally different impeller design that pumps coolant better. The pro design impeller is the Original, all others are just knock off copies.

The FMF Turbine core II's are probably one of the best spark arrestor designs. It deffnatly flows better than the sandard dome screen. It has a cone with fins that spin the exhaust like a tornado. This flings chuncks of carbon to the ouside and grinds them up. If you need a spark arrestor then I would deffinatly ditch the power core II's for Turbine core's. They are USFS approved and have th stamp right on the silencer. So there is no hassle when getting checked. Here is a shot of them.

That and coolant doesnt compress like air. So it raises your compression,wich can also cause detonation.

Nope, none of the Power Core's are spark arrested. If you want / need a spark arrestor then you need to get the FMF Turbine Core II's. http://www.fmfracing.com/Mode/Category/104

The braded stuff isn't much better. It is the same hose with string reinforcemnt. It still isn't rated for the temp and pressure that you need. Some people run with sucess. If you cant or don't want to pony up the $100 bucks for the real deal then stick with the stock rubber ones.

There is a reason why Inland ATV is on there 3rd ebay user name. Inland ATV, in2glamis, and dunetire. They were listing 4mill kits with a Hot Rod's 4mill crank. Then when it showed up at a members door step it was a no name crank. Good ol Inland ATV.

Yep, I got dibs on them if you want to give them away. If you want more than what you paid for them then you can keep them.

bling is one thing performance is another.

This web site also has 20,000 members. There is usually some one fixing something. Your banshee is only as reliable as you make it. Not only doing good maintnence but also using quality parts when parts needed replacing. You cant run a top end in to the ground then be surprised when it shoots a rod through the cases.

I prefer the 2 piece Cool heads, Like the NOSS Machine Head. They are easier to install. You just set one dome over each cylinder. Then slide the shell down. Then Install the top cover. Having a 2 pice head allows you to line the domes up as you slide the shell on. With a 1 pice head you cant see if the domes are lined up with the holding figer / locating tab. Give dave noss a call. He is a really good guy to deal with, and can get you hooked up. His head also uses the factory length studs. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm josh