jbooker82

What do they tell you when you call them? I cant belive they havent done something by now.

Just make sure you seal the rubber boots to the intake with yamabond dont use an rtv or ultra sealer. They wont hold up to fuel.

Drag port = gives up bottomend and midragne in exchage for a really strong top end. Dune Port = gives up bottom end in exhchange for a strong pulling mid range that revs out, and pulls excelent on the top end. Woods / Trail / MX port = good bottom end pull with some gain on the top end. It wont be as much as a dune port but the emphis is on building a strong bottom end.

I to run a boss billit intake. The cross over is built in and it moves the carbs up so the LH bowl plug doesnt rub on the clutch arm.

And a 4 in to 1 intake.

You can't see the banshe but it is there. Got a little Captain in You? last one

Yep I am having MotoFast make me a special LH side pipe so I could run dual 2:1 pipes on the inline 4 cylinder I am building. I aslo talked to trinity about making a special 4 in to 1 intake. I plan on running a single PWK 39mm so the 4 in to 1 doesnt hurt my top end. It is going to be sweet.

Not really. You dont get any performance out of chaging heat ranges. 9's are colder so, 7's are hoter. The temp rating is just that. It is the temperature at wich the spark plug operates at. I has nothing to do with how hot or cold the fuel burns, or having a Hotter larger spark. If it is to cold it will not reach the temp required to keep it clean. If it is to hot it can cause preignition and detonation wich will make your engine short lived. Everything you need to know about heat ranges. http://www.sparkplugs.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range Everything else you could possibly want to know about spark plugs. http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?mfid=0

If you need to run 7's to keep your banshee from fouling plugs then it is not jetted right. Run 8's for gasoline or 9's for Methanol.

Or take it appart and chuck the body in a lathe and take a little bit off.

TM designworks case saver is the only one to get. Nothing protects better.

The problem is that the guy who traded it said that it had a .030 over top end, but in all actuallity I is .100 over. One of the sleeve skirts are missing. I would imagine that is when it blew up the 1st time at .100 over. So he just slapped it back together and dumped it off on some one. Straight from flint's for sale add. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125942&st=0&p=1089096&fromsearch=1entry1089096

You shouldnt need to rejet it. Your still pulling in the same amount of air and fuel. Your just compressing it more. As for installation here are some tips. #1 Drain pull the hoses off the front of the head, and the clutch cover. Then pull the small bolts out of the side of the jugs. That drains the coolant out of the cylinders. #2 After the head is off make sure the cylinder head seaing surface is clean. Take the fitting off the back of the noss head. Make sure you dont loose the o ring or bolts. Grease up the o rings with vasoline / petrolium jelly. Dont use automotive grease. Petrolium jelly melts at a low temp so the excess wont float around in chuncks like wheel bearing grease will. Put the o ring on a dome and set the dome over the cylinder. Do the same for the other. Next put the o rings in the bottom half / shell and slide it down over the studs and domes. Make sure you have the domes lined up with the locating finger in the shell. Then put the orings on the top cover and install it. Put brass / copper washers on the studs and torque the acorn nuts down in incremets using a criss cross pattern. Then put the elbow in the rear hose coming from the clutch cover and bolt it back on the head. Put some teflon tape on the bolts so you dont get any coolant leaking. It is nice to be able to take this fitting off so your not having to fight the rear radiator hose while trying to keep orings in place. Hook the rest of the hoses up and fill it up with coolant. Fire it up with the radiator cap off for and make sure the radiator is full.

Or if you want to take your front fenders off you have to drain the radiator. I went through 3 mechanical and 1 electric water temp gauges. 1 Equus, no name brand, and 1 autometer. All three faild. The vibration would tear them up. They were all 2 1/16 in mechanical non liquid filled. a liquid filled gauge is what you need, but you can only get a liquid filled gauge in 2 5/8 in. It was to big for my taste. I didn want my banshee looking like a 80's honda civic with a 5" tach. Here is my electric one that failed. Mechanical Equus

I didnt like mine. It also makes it easier to bog / fall off the pipe. If your a light weigh guy it is ok but if your a larger guy stick with the stock flywheel. It launches better with a standard flywheel.

see if he wants to trade blown up quads back then.

Toomey Individual parts. http://www.toomey.com/html/pipe_parts1.htm

That is interesting. Got any details.

So I take it that "flint" is the guy you traded with? http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125942&st=0&p=1089096&fromsearch=1entry1089096

Honesty is hard to come by these days.

That is what I was saying. They probably take the "Too Cool For the Room" attitude. Yea were to buisy making shiny billit trinkets so we send our cylinders out. Then later on down the road claim to build a B.A. banshee's taking all the credit. I have no problem with out sourcing, but I will just send it to the man my self. No need for the middle man to add in his cut.

Might as well. They will probaby just tell you that it went out yesterday, and should be there when you get home.

It is like riding 2 blasters at once. I don't really know the performance difference between standard banshee pistons and blaster pistons. I just ran them when I had a 4mill long rod and stock cylinders resleeved with big bore sleeves. 66mm-68mm bore.

I had a set of their a arms bought them bran new. Rode on them twice and sold them. The Heim joints squeeked and poped horrible. I did absolutly no mud riding ethre. If your looking for a amrs go with a set that uses ball joints. I do run a pair of their pro x tie rods. I havent had any problems with them. I dont think you could get a tougher set.

You dont need to touch the pistons. Just make sure you check the squish before you fire it up. The domes will fit right in your cool head. They just dont have the outer lip for the o ring grove. They use the shell as the outer lip. Here is a shot of my 4 mill long rod blaster piston big bore domes.