jbooker82

According to K&N's web page RU-0210 is a direct clamp on filter for the banshee. Call around and see who has that part number. josh

I dont know why yamaha bailed on the banshee in the USA. Heck they just release a set of GYTR Pipes for the YZ80, YZ125, and YZ250. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products/modelscitemdetail/5/31/15/2292/2010/1/9789/0/0/detail.aspx

I shut mine down at or around 225 deg F.

I would do a compression check.

Never mind I see some one put lock / jam nuts on your idle speed adjustemt scews. There should be just a spring on that scew.

The one on the top of the carb where the cable attaches is used to sync the carbs. That way both slides open at the same time. You dont use these to set the Idle speed. There is a scew infront of the choak lever it angles up. That is what you use to adjust the idle speed. These need to be set the same as well. Using a carb sync tool works wonders. josh

Would it really be that hard to make 3x3 or 4x4 squar contoured patch out of a heaver gauge steel. Weld it to the pipe. Then weld the hanger to the patch. That way you have a nice heavy area to attatch the hanger bracket. Maybe some of these new pipes coming out (r2's , and passion's sniper pipes) will give him a run for his money. If they perform pretty close then why not switch to a better quality made pipe.

Here is a link to where I posted some pics of the billit intake. It is nice if your running clamp on filters but if your running the stock air box it is going to be to thick. It is alread to tight of a fit just going up to larger carbs let alone running an intake that is an exta inch thick. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131184

They could. So when you switched carbs side to side did the problem move or did it stay on the same cylinder?

Yes your carbs are Probably 35's they could be 33's. They are diffinatly a Keihin PWK wich is a good thing. They are one of the best 2 stroke carbs. If they are 35's then they are to big for a stock port engine. It will run fine but just lack a little throttle responce. Some people will tell you to go smaller. I say port the Engine. That way you can get way more power than running a stock port with smaller carbs. If you absolutly want to go smaller I am sure you could trade your PWK35's straight across for some PWK 33's. By the looks of your pics of the carbs you need new intake boots. They are the rubber pices that bolt to the cylinders. You see where the boost bottle goes in at. It looks like one is wraped with black tape. I am betting that it is split under the tape. That is what the boost bottle does. It is extra weight on the intake boots and causes them to crack. If you get a carb boots get a boss billit intake. It has an internal crossover machined in it. It also lifts the carbs up so the LH carb bowl doesnt hit on the clutch arm. I run one it is a real nice pice. What are you running for air filters. Just clamp on filters or an air box? I would pull the carbs off and take the bowls off. Take the jets out and spray carb cleaner through all the passages just to make sure they are clean. Make sure you write down what jets and needles are in them for future referances. Main Jet = Pilot Jet = Needle (should be 3 letters like CEL, or CGL) = Needle clip position 1 being the top groove 5 being the bottom grove)= Air scew # of turns out from fully seated = If you trade your twist for a thumb you will need a new cable. Your twist throttle and cable will work on his carbs if he has a TORS eliminator kit on his stock carbs. If he has a TORS elimintator kit then his cable will work on your carbs. If he doesnt have a tors elimintator kit then you will both have to buy new cables.

Are you sure about that. Look up BR8EIX on www.sparkplugs.com then cross referance it to other brands. It shows the Denso IW24. Then do a seach for BR9EIX it shows the Denso IW27 as the cross referance. Here is there Heat Range Cross Referance chart.

I cant say that I notice a difference. I just do it for the principle and it only takes 2 minutes to do. Getting the spark exposed to the air fuel charge is much better than shrouding it with the ground strap.

Are you sure it was actually dieseling. I have had a broken reed before. The one side got cold. Had a lazy idle like it was dieseling. It was pulling air in though the exhaust pipe on the cylinder that had the broken reed. I would think that if it actually was dieseling / preignition it would be extremely hot and have a run away engine.

Yea probably not then. I would deffinatly go to the hardware store and buy a rubber stopper. Drill a hole in it and put in inbetween the bracket and the foot peg. Bolt it together on the loose side and double nut it so it didnt come appart.

I don't know. When I switched from FMF SST's to T5's they ran about the same. The SST's are supose to rev out farther than the regualar fatties. http://www.fmfracing.com/Mode/Category/99

I guess that is why you should get his pipes bare. That way all the extra welds you have to do dont stick out like a sore thumb.

Yea nothing like seeing a 10K dollar drag bike with ghetto Cobra clamp on sparkies.

Yep that is the 100 dollar quesiton. You use a cheap crappy mount that is rigid it will cause your pipes to break. I run a good set of TM Designworks front pipe hangers. They have a rubber bushing inbetween the halfs. They also swivel 360 deg wich is nice. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=149&products_id=242

I have ran the BR8IEX's same heat range as the stock plugs. I have seen the denso iridums they are a better design. They have a finer wire center electrode. I believe they are IW24. Another plug that I run is a BPR8ES same plug as stock only the tip is a projected tip. It hanges down in the combustion chamber. Then you side gap them.

Go to www.sparkplugs.com do a seach for the plugs in question. It will tell you exactly what the differences are. By the way what your saying doesn't make sence. You fouled b8es so you swithced to 9's. 9's are a colder plug so fouling should be worse with them. You don't really need to change heat ranges. Your probably need to mess with the cars to get them dialed in.

I did my top end over a year ago and know it is 65.50 mm it is something you don't forget. I Imagine that .100 over is even easier to remember due to the fact it is on its last leg. If you can't say 100% then you don't advetise as some thing else. IGNORANCE is not an excuse. You can deffinatly sell those cylinders are on there last leg. Look at the sides of the sleeve. They are paper thin.

Make an end cap that will hold a dome spark arrestor screen and it would sell really good. None of the Drag pipe MFG's offer any kind of spark arrestor other than those clamp on cobra sparkies. I know a spark arrestor isnt good for power but some places where you would like to put your power on display require them. If you made it easly removeable with 3-4 allen head bolts per side that would be a hit. No more scratched silencers. Kind of like how the trinity spark arrestors are. josh

You might try a new hub. Make sure you let the lock tight cure before you put oil in it and rip on it.

High temp black is just that. Black Paint that is designed to withstand 1200 deg f. Going by the pics the front expansion chambers, and the small metal stinger tubes are black. The aluminum silencer body / muffler are left bare aluminum.