jbooker82

Because the pipe sucks the big one. The 2:1 pipe is supose to be a low end pipe, but a pair of Pro Circuit pipes has just as good low end pull but will rev out way better on the top end. The same goes for a the 2:1 carb. A pair of Keihin 28mm carbs will out perform a 2:1 any day.

No Joke

Here is a Mod Quad one that a member had a problem with.

I run a prodesign but it came on my banshee. If I was going to buy one it would be a Noss Machine head, it would have to come from FAST though. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=183

Me to. I love the guys who say running a K&N lets dirt in. I guess they just dont know what they are doing.

I wouldn't loose any sleep over it.

Your right but I think the claims have been over done. I look at a duneable as being just as sensitave as a regular over ride, only if you forget to grab the clutch at the end of a pass it wont gernade right away. You get a little lee way or forgivness. I wouldn't get one and plan on trail riding on it / back loading it on purpose. My stock transmission doesn't sound bad when I push or roll start it. I dont role it in neutral and drop it in gear. I put it in second with the clutch pulled in, then role down a dune.

After pipes, Bolting on a set of Ported Cylinders.

Why not the guys that cut a dunable over ride sware up and down you can back load it like a normal transmission. Mirical seasons of Flat track racing with numerous back loading and no damage. Trail riding no problem. I dont buy and I guess that is why I still have a standard transmission.

You would think anybody with a high school education that included a science class or two would realize that. As coolant is heated it expands. When it cools down it contracts. So if the coolant catch can has liquid in it how is it not going to pull coolant back in to the radiator as it cools down?

You shoudlnt even be measuering squish front to back. It allows the piston to rock in the bore which wont give you a true reading like your finding out. You want to measuer in line with the wrist pin. Got me by a Min.

A trinity 2:1 intake with noss that would bring you back up to the performance level of stock carbs. First your going to have to convert your banshee from an AC electrical system to a DC system. Add a battery.

I call it a lock up. It locks the clutch up so there is no slippage. There are 2 styles. The direct drive style has fingers with weights on the end. As you gain speed the fingers fling out and put more pressure on the pressure plate. The other style is a sling shot. It uses ball bearings. There are ramps machined in to one half of the lock up. As you gain speed the ball bearings are forced out in to a pinch point. This causes the lock up to expand putting more pressure on the clutch pack.

Yea tear it down to do a pump seal and bearing. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a billit impeller.

How is the coolant level? It wont blow white smoke because the oil doesn't lubercate any engine parts.

Yea in the banshee I would emagine it is real hard to hear. I have herd it on my mustang. Hot summer day Lugging it in gear around a corner with out pushing in on the clutch, then push on the gas. It sounds like marbles, or ball bearings rattling around on top of the pistons. I think it would be extreemly hard to hear on a banshee. VP makes unleaded race fuel.

My banshee consistanly runs 180-195. It has ran up to 220 with no problems.

Yep send your money to ebay, then ask Jeff for some free advice

#1. Locate the black box under the fuel tank. #2. Disconect the black box and remove it. #3. Place black box on a hard firm surface and strike multiple times with a hammer. #4. Disconect the wires to the carb tops. #5. Disconect the wire that goes to the thumb throttle.

I would paint the air box silver to match and call it good.

I though locktight ruined plastic. I would run v force 3's with cascades reed stuffers / retainers. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=83

I don't know. People ditch the mikuni cv carbs on 660 Raptors in favor for a pair of keihin FCR's. I think there is an austriala 2 stroke shop that uses FCR's on banshee's. As for a cv carb being a performance carb I wouldn't consider it one. You have a butterfly in the carb that restricts flow. The reason why they have good low speed performance is because they are slow to react. They are great for mfg's because of how smooth they are. What is good for joe public isn't always the best for performance.

I have herd that the 2's make more hp. Not much but a little more.

They are designed differently. V force 2's are a gray reed cage with a purple tag. There reeds are held in place by metal screws and have a flat metal strap that holds them down. You can flip the metal strap over to make the reeds low or high tension. Most guys said to leave them on high tension other wise the reeds don't last long. The opeaning in to the reed cage is square. Vforce 3's are the newest design. They have a black reed cage with yellow and silver sticker on the sides. you cannot adjust the tension. The reed cage just snaps together so there are no small metal screws to come loose. They have a small round opening that matches the stock intake boots nicely. You can buy a reed stuffer from cascade that allows you to remove the factory stuffer. It makes the reed cage have a giant square opeaning. I would only use them if your running an aftermarket intake that has a square opening. Otherwise port the factory stuffer to match the round intake.

For stock your probably not going to build much power over 7500-8000 RPM. My Patriot Racing drag ported 4 mill stock cylinder peaked out at around 9200 RPM. That is according to the builder, Dan at Patriot Racing.