jbooker82

PWK Tuning Bible http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

It will be good as long as the gas is. Premix doesnt deteriorate any faster than a regular can of gasoline. Just give the can or your banshee a shake before you use it.

The only think I dont like about running a sprocket that has a life time warrenty is that the sprocket is harder than the out put of the transmission shaft. So intead of the splines wearing out in the sprocket it chews through the out put shaft. Not a banshee, but still a yamaha though.

No the raptor run s small round mikuni

That and prep and polishing is part of the process. I think cascade has polished a thing or two. I don't know if cascade does it for the pipes they sell or not. I knew they didn't do there own chrome plating. They do there own quality control and that is what you pay for.

Stock carbs will feed it fine. Unless you build an all out drag banshee there will usually always be something holding your engine back.

Well said. Besides where you going to get chrome CPI's or Shearers that look this good.

You shouldnt see any loss in reliability. The long rod 4 mill has conecting rods that are 5 mill longer than the oem ones. This helps reduce the side load on the piston skirts. The cool head will be fine as long as you dont pinch an o ring when you install it. I reuse the orings when I have taken mine appart. There is a dune ported 4mill top end for sale in the classifides. He was asking 375 for the cylinders, and domes. I believe one piston was bad. I would just buy a new set instead of running one used piston and one new one.

4mill long rod stroker crank from fast $435 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Pair of Wiseco 795 (for the long rod) series pistons $164 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=77 Noss Machine Cool Head $195 (bhq members get 10% off) http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm Custom cut stroker domes. I would get them through who ever does your porting. They will know what size of domes are needed for there port work for running a spacific fuel. Different port jobs respond differently so you might need a little smaller or larger dome. Porting not required it will run but it wont be near as fast as it could be. A ported stock stroke banshee will be a lot faster than a non ported 4 mill, so I would say it is required. There is no better time to do porting than when your doing a top end. Who you go through that choice is going to be up to you. There are a lot of good builders on here and I dont think you would be un happy with any of them. I would recomend Jeff at FAST, but he is going to be closed until july 22. Around $350 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp You should also get the pistons from who ever your going to have do the port work, and bore. That way they can measuer the cylinders and just bore the bare minimum. josh

Kind of nice that they are talking or reading suggestions from the guys that will be using them, vs just making them and having to live with them.

I dont know what to tell you. I have had my raptor act up like that when I had a broken side spring. I dont know much more or what to tell you.

You should be useing needles out of a jet kit. That is what most people run. I ran a dynojet kit with dynojet mains (they are numbered different than the Mikuni's). 2003 Yamaha Raptor 720 (102mm bore, +4mm stroke) sparks 6x pipe, stage 2 cam, Kenz cycle tech ported head with kibble white standard sized valves, No air box lid. Dynojet 160/165 mains Dynojet needles Middle clip position. Pilot jet #27.5's with fuel scews 2 truns out. I ran this setup and had a 12.5-13:1 AFR across the board. I used a NGK AFX wide band o2 meter. Have you pulled the petcock out of the fuel tank to make sure the screen is clean. Wash the tank out real good while you have it drained. Check to make sure the carb diaphrams are in good shape. Dont get carb clean on them because they will swell up. Make sure you dont have a broken slide spring as well. You can also put a clear tube on the bottom nipple of the carb bowl. Hold the hose next to the carb body and open up the scew a little on the bottom of the carb. Then turn the fuel tank on. Fuel will fill up the tube to the hight of fuel in the bowl. You want it around 2-3mm above the split where the carb bowl and body meet. You just use it as a liquid level. josh

Here you go. 4 mill for under or around 1,100 bucks Used Dune ported cylinders, and cut domes. $375 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132244 A set of Wiseco 795 Series Pistons (long rod) 65mm bore. $164 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=77 New Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod Crank $435 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Noss Machine Cool head. $195 http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm Set of Used pipes $350 give or take.

Between the Jug and reeds. The reed spacers are larger opening than the reed's so when you have them between the reeds and intake you have square shap edges haning out in the air stream. That harms flow. You want the air to flow from small to large. Not small to large, back to small. It is like having your exhaust opening being larger than the exhaust header or pipe.

Nothing like coming along and taking the gravy and leaving the dirty work for some one else.

There is no aftermaket needles for aftermarket carbs. Keihin has alread made all the needles for the PWK's or PJ carbs. There is 133 different needles for the PJ and PWK carbs (they use the same needles). I guess that is all the "Aftermarket Needles" you could ever want. Now it is up to you to find wich one works best. Go to Page 69 (or 47 of 62) that is the chart for the Keihin needles. Most guys run CEL's in PWK carbs. http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor/SudcoKeihinCatalog.pdf

Yea those esr gauges are super nice and built tough since they are liquid filled. You want to put it in the radiator hose that runs from the front of the head to the top of the radiator. You can splice it in up by the gas tank so you can see the gauge though one of the gas tank shroud's holes.

It is just there vapor computer. You have to splice in to the top radiator hose. Mount the speedometer sensor in the metal shield behind the brake rotor. Take a rotor bolt out and relace it with a magnetic bolt. It is a pretty easy install.

Yea I would go down to at least a 165 or 162. You will still probably be rich.

Nice. I like it when people try to be first in line and haggling you and expect you not to sell it to the guy second in line that has the full amount and cash in hand. The guy seems like some one I wouldnt want to sell any parts. There is such a thing as Bad Buyers, you just dont ever hear about them. josh

I would find some one that wants to trade. Then swap carbs for some keihin pwk 28's. There is no way I would go back to the stock dinosaur carbs.

Yep it just sits on top of the swing arm.

Most people just use the air flow meter one that FAST sells. You just hold it up to the bell of the carburetor. If you wanted to use that style your best bet would be to find some plugs that fit the crossover tube ports in the stock intakes. Then mount the fitings for that gauge in th plugs. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59

That is so not true. I broke mine in and ran the same oil later on down the road. It was synthetic. I have 185/185 psi of compression. If this is ture then why do high performance vehicles (corvett, viper, porsche) role off the assembly line with mobil 1 full synthetic oil?

This is exactly what I think everytime I see a post that has pic's of spark plugs WITHOUT the threads cut off. You got to cut the threads off to tell / see anything. Why do you think it is called a Plug Chop?