jbooker82

Yea those are two's. When you put the new petals back on them make sure you get those metal bars that hold the reads on the right way. You see how it says high. That is how you want it. If you flip it over it will hold the reed farther back and will put less tension on it. Yea that would be nice for throttle responce but the new reeds wont last long on low tension. josh

You wont have overheating problems. There have been plenty of people running 66.5mm (.100 in) over with no problems. You just cant accuratley meauser the bore. It would be like trying to use a ruler. The measurements needed are to small. You need to take them off and have them measured by a machine shop or motorcycle shop. If you just take them to a motorcycle repair shop and have them meausure them they will be able to tell if you can just hone the cylinder and put 66mm pistons in or if you need to go up a size. Your cylinders are at the end of there life ethrire way. Just as well start looking for a good pair of replacemts. Find some that are already ported if you want to save some cash. You can do what you want, throw another set of 66mm pistons in and cross your fingers or you can atleast have the cylinders measured.

The only thing a plug lock is good for is changing spark plugs.

All a calipar is good for is to tell you what size your pistons are. It cannont accuratly measure piston to cylinder clearances. Your dealing with to small of numbers. Forged pistons generally require 0.003 in or 0.0762mm. A calipar can only measure in bore at the top. It cannont meausre half way down in to the cylinder. That is where the most wear occurs and the clearance will be larger than at the top of the bore. The top of the bore can also be the same as the day it was bored because the piston rings do not go up that far. So if your pistons are 66.00mm you need your bore to be 66.0762mm, 66.400mm bore is to large by 0.3238mm. You need a bore (inside) micrometer, and a regular micrometer to properly measure pistons and bores to determine the correct size. That is why you should wait to get your pistons after you have the cylinders measured. Yea you can hone the cylinder throw the same size piston back in and it will run. But if the clearances are to large then your pistons wont last long. They can rock back and fourth in the bore, breaking the skirts off and causing all kinds of damage. When you should have went up to the next size and had the cylinders bored.

You shouldn't buy pistons until you have had your cylinders measured to see what size you need.

Six Pack of pistons. That is funny

split the cases to clean the bearings in the crank out and run it. You could smooth them up with a dremal or something if you wanted to.

but isn't A&S, GRR, RB, and RDZ all from Michigan? I have a FAST dune ported 4 mill. It halls the mail. I highly recomend Jeff at FAST, it is deffinatly worth it. josh

If they farm there stuff out to twister and they just assemble it wouldnt that meen that Twister Fed UP? Not slamming twister just hearing two different stories that have a common ending, SLAMMING cascade. So they should be nice to you since your setting up a shop 2 hrs away. I would expect some ones attitude to change. It is not like your on the east coast. I wouldnt let some one sell my parts off the back step of my shop. You can't play the "I am just a little shop" card and expect them to happly let you sell there parts. I guess I dont have a problem with a company improving on something that is already out there. What have they stolen? I got a free shirt when I bought only my pipes, but I didnt ask for one ethire.

I run my direct drive lockup with the 6 oem springs. I like it becuse it let the clutch slightly slip out of the hole on launch.

Rev it up in 2nd gear with the clutch pulled in. When the rpm's are on there way back down click it in to Neutral. That is how I find it the easiest.

I like mine. I run the 6 oem (soft) springs with my mods in my sig.

What temp does that gauge show as your normal operating temp? That isnt a real accurate way to measure water temp. That small hose doesnt really cirulate coolant. It is there to keep an air pocket from forming in the back of the cylinder head. The coolant that does flow through the hose also comes from the back of the head and has not moved across the hot cylinder head, so the temp will read lower. Match that up with the poor ciruclation through that small hose then you really dont have an accurate reading. If you want an accurate temp gauge then get one that is billit aluminum and splices in to the radiator hose. Splice it in to the upper radiator hose (the one that goes from the front of the head to the top of the radiator), behind the gas tank side cover so you can read the gauge through one of the holes. A mod quad temp gauge would be the best to use if your going to mount it behind the gas tank side cover because there gauge is mounted straight. The ESR one is at an angle. PM alf44 he is a site sponcer and a Mod Quad dealer so he can probably get you one at a good price. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123994

You could always make you a tool like a cheese cutter. Then just heat the wire with a toarch. Cuts would be nice and smooth.

I wasnt going to say anything until you said that your customers could "Go around Noss Machine" and buy them from TDR.

I run all 6 stock springs with my direct drive lockup, and I also trail ride.

I was just messing around. I dont think it would work real well. The intake track would to to long and the air speed would be low so fuel could / would drop out of the air stream and pool in the intake.

It wont work. You need a 3rd 2:1 intake to bolt to that. Make sure you put an extra set of reeds in too.

I c. I though you were going back to a stock stroke motor.

Why not just sell the pipes, carbs, and cylinders. Get another set of cylinders trail or mx ported for the 4 mill crank and have tons of bottom end. You should talk with Jim at Passion Racing. He builds a smooth pulling motors. He has experiance building short track flat track engines. They need to be smooth other wise the hard hit will brake the tires loose on the dirt oval. josh

Both R50 and Supertechniplate are good oils. R50 is going to be like the bel ray you use to run. No or ultra low smoke clean burn. It is a 100% synthetic oil. Supertechniplate is a blend of oil. It is 80% synthetic 20% klotz benol caster oil. Caster oil is a dirty burning oil, and it smokes. But is a really great protecting oil. The supertechniplate helps to burn clean and still offer the protection of caster oil. I run Supertechniplate. If i was running a power valve engine then I would run R50.

You could always go for some Oakley Proven OTG MX goggles. http://www.oakley.com/pd/6002

What do you have in the carbs now for jetting? Main Pilot Needle Needle clip position air screw turns out

IF the power jet it that bad I would imagine the rest of the carb isn much better. I dont even run knock off (non Keihin) jets in my PWK's. Is there diffferent levels of knock off carbs. Are these the same ones that CPW sells?

I woudlnt mix any more than 32:1 even if it is junk pinzoil weed wacker 2 stroke oil. 40:1 is fine.