jbooker82

I run them with my boss intake. If your running a round intake then keep the stock retainers, and port match them to the intake. Boss intake

I had one come out of my raptor. If you want a sealer just put alitte yamabond on the out side of the brass nipple, and press it in good and tight with a vise. dont put any on the inside cause it will plug it up.

Yea it should. The small ones are for electric gauges. I believe they are threaded 1/8 npt thread. The only problem with an electric autometer guage is that they are made to run on 12 volts dc, not ac. The blue one is for a mechanical water temp gauges. If you get a mechanical one get one that is liquid filled. Other wise the vibration will tear it appart. I went through 3 non liquid filled gauges. Non of them were autometers but you could just see the needle vibrating. Autometer's liquid filled gauges are only avalable in 2 5/8 in, and in 1 series. You cant get the cool cobalt or nv's in a liquid filled gauge.

It is a small gain. It gives you a stronger midrange. Poring and Pipes are much more hp gained.

If your going to do that you might as well run big bore sleeves too. Dont get the huge ones. I had a pair of drag ported cylinder resleeved by dan a patiot racing. He used a 66mm-68mm sleeve. People claim that big bore sleeves choke down the transer ports. My 66-68mm sleeves still had aluminum in the transfer ports, so they were not any smaller than stock sleeves.

It is the same plug. NGK makes 2 different terminal styles. I ususally get the fixted (non removeable) style. that way they cant unscrew on you.

Here you go. http://www.jtatv.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=2

Take your trail tech off. Power it up with a 9 volt battery. Boil some watter on the stove. Dip the tip of the sensor in the pot. It should read 212 or close to that. I wouldnt totaly submerge the sensor. Let us know what you find. out.

Mine was just an automotive mechanical one. It didnt last real long. The vibration tore it up. I would get a 2 5/8 in mechanical liquid filled gauge. It will last much longer.

The VP jugs are the best out there. I went through a couple differnt off brands and the cap kept cracking. It would crack through where the hose threaded in to the cap. The VP one is deffinatly worth the extra bucks.

Mod Quad is just a pirate company, making low grade knock offs. Maybe that is why Cascade wouldn't put his banshee in there calender

The vito's pistons have part of the piston head milled away on the exhaust port side. This allows the exhaust port to open up sooner. It some what mimmicks a port job. Your best bet is porting, and running standard wiseco's.

I just bought a new elka stage 3 rear for my raptor. That way I can run there linkage and get an extra 3 in of wheel travel. I just have works on the front of both my raptor and banshee. They are nice upgrade from stock for sure. If you do get elka's for the front then I would at least get the 3's so you have a high speed compression knob. I doubt you would see much bennifit going with the 4's to get the high and low speed compression adjustment.

Yea that is understandable. I just was saying most guys that have been around here for a while are desent do do buisness with. Dont deal with a fly by night new guy.

Yea it could have been due to the ethanol. Sta Bil makes a marine version that is supose to be used with ethanol, in a humid marine enviroment. I have never had stabil gunk up the carbs or seperate out. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx#marine_formula

Aftermarket cdi boxes are hoaxes. The only aftermarket one to get is a dyna digital one if you must have one. Then it is only worth it if you take the time to program it with custom curves.

I buy my race fuel by the 55 gallon drum. I have run the sunoco standard (purple 110 octane) I never had a problem of it going bad. The fuel would last for a year easly in the plastic barrel that it came in. I have ran VP110, VP C12, VP Red, Citgo 110, Sunoco Standard, and Turbo Blue (also made by sunoco). All with good results and no ill running affects. I do buy a big bottle of Stabil and dump in the barrel. You spend 400 bucks on a barel of fuel doesnt make sence so skip out on a 8 dollar bottle of stabil. Weather it is needed or not who knows, but it doesnt hurt. With VP you pay for the name. Verry Pricy Where are you getting your fuel 5 gallons at a time? Are you just buying it 5 gallons at a time from some one who pumps it from a barrel. If you really think it is fuel related I would question your suplyer before the brand of fuel. Sunoco is a name brand, and makes good stuff. I would be real easy to blend a little pump fuel in to make better profit margins. josh

That would look real sweet with a set of Chrome stock pipes.

It has always been my thought that if it boils over it is to late, the engine has already been cooked. I don't think anybody realizes or knows how hot it has to get before it boils over. You have to figure in the radiator caps psi. I think (not for sure) for 1 psi of pressure it raises the boiling temp 1 deg. Water boils at 212 deg. So with a 16 psi radiator cap it won't boil over until 228 deg. That is with water alone. Coolant also raises the boiling point. I think most coolant mfgs rate the coolants boiling point with a 12 psi cap instead of just 0 psi. That way it looks good when they say protects up to 280 deg plus. 230 is about as far as I would want to go. I have hit 240 before. I was running with the wind so there wasn't much air flow over my Prodesign radiator. I just turned around and ran into the wind.

That is too bad. I am not sticking up for him BUT; He Joined BHQ June 27th, 2010. When you set up the trade on July 7th he had been a member for only 11 days. To this date he only has 30 posts. Some times you have to have some common sence when dealing with people. I hope you dont respond to those emails from a Nigerian Prince who needs to give you some money, but requires you give him your account number so he can wire it to you. I feel safe dealing with trusted, known members. Dealing with guys like NYUK is better than ebay. I wont deal with a new guy unless he sends his stuff first.

Those adaptors will add about 3cc's to get an accurate reading you need the schrader valve in the tip. Any volume before the schrader valve is added volume.

RK GB520EWX ring chain here.

See above

Yep WildCard does awesome work and I belive has a quick turn around. If you got an extra couple hundred bucks you should port the cylinders while you doing a top end. That will really wake your banshee up. It will be a totaly differen animal. It is just as big if not bigger differnce going from stock pipes to aftermarket. Those vito's pistons you were looking at try to mimmic a port job. The crown of the piston is notched out so the exhaust port opens sooner. That is why they advertise gaining hp by switching to there pistons. The right way to do it is with a port job. That way all the ports can be moddified not just the exhaust. Porting a 2 stroke is like putting a performance cam in a 4 stroke. They change the port hights. make them open up sooner. josh

You dont bore the cylinders until you have determined what size pistons you need, and you have them in your hands. That way they can measure the piston then figure in the clearance. You dont bore the cylinders blind with out having pistons in your hands, or at least a reputalbe machine shop wont. Overboring the cylinders to save a few bucks is not a good idea. You can get wiseco pistons from jeff at fast for 82 bucks each in any standard sizes. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=77