jbooker82

All RM did was quit buying their junk from RS and started buying it from the same place RS does. They cut out the middle man. Pabanshhematt how did your flywheel break. My junk RS flywheel had a the rivits loosen up and one sheared off. The sheared rivit head stuck to the flywheel and took out the pickup coil. So I didn't totally get to destroy the flywheel. I took their cast timing plate off and threw it in the trash. They can keep there junk.

Yep pretty much any body that is a regular on here knows RM Stator and Ricky Stator is the same stuff from the same crap hole 3rd world country in Asia.

They are cut down (1.5 inch) CPI silencers with Trinity Spark Arrestors. Way better looking than the clamp on Cobra Sparkies.

I don't think they do. With most 2 stroke silencers you have to go out.of your way to get a spark arrested silencer.

A ported 4mill will give you a stronger midrange than a ported stock stroke. With at extra midrange you have 2 options. Keep it by getting a trail port and have a strong midrange motor. Or give up some midrange in exchange for top end by going with a dune port job. I would say option #2 is what I would do since you ride mostly in 3rd or 4th gear.

I would say your good to go as is. Trail or MX port is going to be a low to mid range port job so you pipes will be fine, weather you do a 4 mill or not. Those carbs you have will aslo be good. I wouldn't go to a 33mm pwk unless you get a dune port job. A 4 mill does gain you more mid range, so you could get a more agressive port job and still have more or just as good of a midrange as a stock stroke trail port. That way instead of being all low end it will rev out more, but still maintain a decent mid range.

Yea it looks pretty slick. I just didnt know about advancing the pickup coil while leaving the ignition coils behind the flywheel at the standard 0 deg.

Here is a new style. The stator plate stays stationary and the pickup or triger coil moves on the stator plate. I would think if you wanted to advance the Ignition 4 deg you would also want to advance the stators's coil's 4 deg. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-BILLET-ADJUSTABLE-TIMING-STATOR-PLATE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ320563885878QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Simichrome is the best. http://www.simichrome-polish.com/

SLORYDER says no. Everyone else says yes. Take you pic.

If your wanting an automotive style gauge that will last then get a liquid filled gauge. It has liquid in it to keep vibration from destroying it. Since it is liqid filled it is sealed.

Yep like I have said. Take the thumb throttle cover off and wedg something in there so it holds the RPM just above idle. Since it is a socket or scew driver tip it will maintain the RPM the whole time you syncing the carbs.

You got to love it when some one sells one part twice.

Jeff at FAST. www.farmandsandtoys.com

Yea pretty funny isn't it. That and most of his post have been asking about how to DIY port his cylinders. He has had a pretty quick turn around from asking about port hights 10 times a week. To being the Authority on the Banshee engine.

That is the biggest advantage of chrome over bare pipes. When you get your pipes bran new shoot some white 1200 or 1500 deg paint down the throats of the pipe. It will help keep the pipes from turing blue.

I am selling a Dremal 4000 series rotary tool with gray hard plastic case. I have used it once so it is pretty much bran new. It looks bran new. I dont have any of the atachemts. I cant find them. 65 bucks shipped. Here is the link to the tool. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=4000

Now you need to sync the throttle cable so they read the same. That way you know the sides are opening the same amount. I take the cover off the thumb throttle. Then prop something in there to hold open a little. That way I keep the throttle the same while adjusting the carb tops.

and your still running a cast aluminum head vs, a forged billit aluminum cool head.

Wonder when the next "Cool Head" thread will pop up in the product review forum.

Forged / billit aluminum conducts heat more evenly than cast aluminum. Your less likely to get hot spots from a billit cool head than a cast oem head.

I couldnt tell you that. I put the reeds with the cascade retainers in at the same time. I never ran it with the small round hole. It is best to have everything matched up so I didnt even try the round ones. I would think it would cause fuel to pool between the intake and reed retainer, let a lone be bad for air flow.

Just got to give you a hard time

Get chrome unless you like spending hours with an sos pad, or steel wool and wd40 to keep the rust off the bare pipes.