jbooker82

You can take them appart and put them back to gether fine. You just dont want to mix and match case halfs. The top and bottom haves are a set. Yamaha bolts them together and finish bores / line hones all the bearing surfaces / bores. If you mix and match the cases you might end up with to tight or to loose of a bearing clearance.

Nothing like makeing it a pain to save 2 base gaskets.

Yea or just get a used one.

Most aftermarket cdi's are made by the same company. (Procom). Peel the lable off and see for your self. Aftermarket cdi boxes are junk and unreliable. Dyna Digital FS is about the only one that is not a relabled procom. The programable dyna cdi is the only aftermarket one worth buying. If your not going to spend the money and dyno time to make your own custom curves then just stick with a OEM Yamaha cdi.90% of the drag racers just stick with oem.

Yep that is the joke, some one will ask or brag about it in a serious setting.

Right at the bottom of the page. They are a pretty new cylinder so there isnt a whole lot of posts. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134580&st=0

Cant wait until the Drag Ported Serval Cat post start.

It makes it bog easier off the line, and when riding it falls off the pipe easier. Lightining up the fly wheel just makes for a fast sounding engine while reving it with the clutch pulled in or in Neutral.

x2 What a dbag. I have 1 screen name. This guy should go .

If that is the case then machining an aluminum ring to weld on the clutch cover shouldn't be to hard for some one who has the proper tools to machine the clutch cover.

Pic of my Intake running my old PJ's and FMF SST's. It had some funny oval cone shaped filters. They were on it when I bought it. They were pretty small too. Here is the PJ's and UPP racing larger factory style intakes. These were on my banshee when I bought it. The LH bowl hit the clutch arm and you can see the carb sit lower. It had an air box too.

I am running a boss billit intake with built in cross over, Pod filters with a 10 deg angle (20's were to much the filter hit the bottom bar under the rear of the filters), CPI pipes. I dont even run a heat wrap on the RH side.

The sharp lip on the ports will shave the new rings and piston. No way i would run it like that.

http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=168

why would you want to mod a factory clutch cover when you can get a new one piece direct drive cover. No leaky welds and epoxy to fail.

Motion Pro Terminator cable here.

That is what I was thinking. If you can't bother to come back and see what people post, why bother joining. You don't sign up and expect people to email you. This is a discusion forum. Not an email banshee trouble shooting service

I have run maxxis 4snows on my raptor and banshee. Like said above any thing over 8 in and it sucks especially since there is no reverse to help back out when your stuck. I can pull a wheelie on snow pack with the maxxis 4snows on my raptor. The banshee just blows the tires off and spins. Tire wear is just part of the game. Dont get them spinning hard and hit dry pavement.

I run all 6 oem springs with mine.

You should always run the same brand of rings on the same brand of piston. If you need a ring for an OEM Piston then order it from honda. Pistons can be made up of different alloys and require different piston rings.

+1 Forward is only like adding .5 in to the rear swing arm. Not that big of a deal and deffinatly not with the hassle. I would get a +2 swing arm with the honda style round house carrier before I would mess with going from +2+0 arms to +2+1 arms. Then you will have a better chain adjustment.

It is just trying to replace the grunge on the top case half

That dammage looks pretty standard. Any pieces of the skirt broke off? Missing any scews in the reed cage? Any rolers bearings missin from the crank shaft or upper conecting rod bearings ?Just looks like something got on top of the piston. If part of the skirt is broke off that is usually due to the bore bing to large and the piston rocking in the bore. Clean the tops of the piston off with a wire brush. See if there is any numbers on the top.

They can be a tight fit. They are usually pretty snug then whent they chrome plate them they get tighter. Who's parts are you useing? Did you buy the whole T5 setup from cascade? Or just there slilencers.

There is no better time to do the 4 mill build then. It is going to cost you about same amount. The only way you would do it cheaper doing a stock stroke setup with a used crank. A 4 mill long rod crank from FAST is only 35 bucks more than a hot rods stock stroke crank. 50 bucks more if you have FAST do a stronger weld on the crank pins. I wouldn't run a cheaper no name crank. Hot Rods is a really good crank for the price. You want a long rod stroker crank. A standard or short rod 4mill will put more side load on the pistons wich can cause the piston skirts to break. The long rod is a reliability mod not a hp mod. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Next you need some pistons. You need to run 795 series wiseco pistons. They have the crank pin moved up 5mm closer to the top of the piston. This is because the long rod crank has conecting rods that are 5mm longer than the stock rod. You have to run these pistons wether your builing a 4mill long rod, or a stock stroke long rod. Third you need to do some kind of head moddification. You can have your oem head rechambered, or run a pair of cool head domes that are for a 4 mill. The 4 mill crank makes the pistons fall 2mm farther down in to the bore. It also causes them to pop up 2mm farther out of the cylinder. So you need to clearance the head so you don't have contact being made. The other option is to put a 2mm thick aluminum spacer plate under the cylinders. This will raise the cylinders and keep the piston from hitting the cylinder head as well. It isn't the best method. Most guys prefer to run a cut head. It is more reliable instead of haveing double base gaskets sandwitching an alumnum plate. Fourth. Porting. Porting 2 stroke cylinders is not like porting a head on a 4 stroke. The name of the game doing 4 stroke heads is to improve flow. When you open ports up on a 2 stroke your changing when the air and fuel come in and when the exhaust goes out. Porting a 2 stroke is like putting a camshaft in 4 stroke. The ports need to be certian shapes and sizes. There angles are import to. That way you dont have fresh air and fuel being blown out the exhaust port. Porting should be left to the professionals. You need to order your pistons from the guy you have do the port job. You send him your cylinders, they come back ported, and bored with the correct size of piston. That way he can port the cylinders. Measure the bore and get the right size pistons off the shelf and bore your jugs to the correct bore. If you have to bore most builders like to do it after the cylinder has been ported. That way if they have any slip ups and nick the cylinder the bore will take care of it. If your getting a bran new crank there isnt a better time to do a 4 mill. It has a stronger midrange wich is nice for trail riding. Just call some site sponcers. Let them know what you want to do, type of riding you do, rider weight. Talk to them with what pipes work best with there port jobs. Dont buy a set until you know what the guy who ports the cylinders recomends.