jbooker82

The EGT is directly related to the operating temperature of the engine. How are you going to measure the conecting rod, crank beaing, or piston head / dome temp of a running engine? Going to dirll holes and install inspection plugs so you can shine your IR gun on them?

I bet you would notice a change in water temp or the radiator over boiling before you would notice a drastic change in surface temp. The farther away you get from the combustion proccess the less accurate measurement and the longer it takes to increase or decress in temperature. The first, and best measurement is going to be exahust gas temp. It changes the fastest and is directly related to engine temp. Next is the water temp. I wouldn't even consider surface temp an accurate measurement. The damage would be done by the time you noticed an extreem temp change. If you like surface temps so well then get you some of those Pro Circuit "Fish Tank" temp strips. Then you dont have to carry your IR gun.

That looks pretty good. I personaly knock the bridge out of the intake ports for better flow. You dont have to but it really helps a lot.

Wasn't he the one sticking up for "Banshee Boyz" in the thread where they were getting slamed?

The surface temp of the cylinders doesn't matter like the internal water temperature. You can't tell the operating temp from the outside temp reading.

I would run a Hot Rods over a vito's and wiseco crank. Hot Rods have held up fine in 90+ hp 421 Cubs. Vito's cranks use dowl pins to keep the race from turning in the cases. Hot Rods uses a Rubber o ring. If you want a name brand crank then wiseco and vito's are out. Hot Rods is the standard. People will say that all the parts are made by the same forging company in Tiawan. This is probably true. But if you buying a cheap crank on the bottom end of the price scale your not getting first run qualiy parts. They may be second's or thirds.

That basket isnt even hard anodized. I am pretty sure that is an important step in making a quality clutch basket. And it doesnt have holes in the fingers for proper lubercation. Maybe they dont run the holes to make up the strength for non hard anodizing.

Just sound like typical damage from gernading a engine. A 4mill crank drops right in no machine work nessessary.

Yep that is what sucks about going from a ported stock stroke to a ported 4 mill. You have to get new cylinders and have them reported. I am sure your cylinders have had the port hights raised to much for them to be corrected for a 4 mill crank. When they port for a 4 mill the start by lowering the ports roughly 2mm since the piston falls 2mm down in the bore. Then they raise the roof's of the ports. Since your ports have already been raised when the drop the floor's 2mm the ports are way to big and to far advanced.

One bottle of octane booster claims to raise the octane 5-10 points. Sounds pretty good right? Well what they dont tell you is that it takes 10 points to go up 1 octane number. Say from 90 to 91. How many bottles would it take to make 5 gallons 108 octane. Race fuel is a much cheaper alternative to boosting the octane of pump fuel. Octane boosters are a joke.

I thought the cub was drag ported out of the box The whole reson for the creation of the Severl cylinder.

You could always run a mechaniclay operated Cheetah power valve. http://www.twostrokeshop.com/two_stroke_shop_engines.htm#ypvs

Then when you want to take them out you have a big hole in the carb, and a hole in the float bowl, or a broken off brass tube (over flow tube) in the float bowl. If they were that good and worked as good as advertise everyone would have them. People running methanol run them because they help the carbs flow 2x as much fuel as requred for running methanol.

Most people you will find running them run Methanol. If your running gas just stick with a normal carb. The main jet in the carburetor does a much more accurate job of metering of fuel.

yellow is diesel. blue is kerosene

Yea they are. I spill more gas with those than i lost with evaporation with the old style. I dont get where they are environmentaly friendly.

Supertechniplate is 20% Klotz Benol added to Klotz Techniplate oil, not R50 Original Techniplate oil. Synthetic 2 stroke oil that blends with methanol. R50 doesnt blend with methanol so it cant be 80% of supertechniplate http://www.klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KL%2D200%5FQuart&cat=8

Same cylinders before the resleeve. Notice the difference between the iron sleeve and the cylinder head stud holes.

big bore or HD sleeve big bore sleeve with aluminum against the sleeve (same size port as oem not being choked by the larger sleeve)

Seal the silencet end caps with rtv too. If you rtv ed the threads it isn't coming through them.

Unless it specifies that they are for an aftermarkert cylinder then they should be for oem yamaha cylinders. You can get some called heavy duity. Those start out at 64mm and go all the way to 68 or 68.5mm. I think that is what was installed in mine. Then they just bored them out to 66mm.

I had about 700 in the whole top end. Purchase price of the cylinders, sleeves, labor, finish bore and hone, blaster pistons, and a pair of blaster piston domes. All work was done by patriot racing.

I don't even run pipes on my banshee. I just want it loud and don't care how it runs.

Unfortunatly those gas cans are gone. The new safty can's are designed to keep fuel from evaporating. They sell them as safty but it is an environmental issue. I spill way more gas using one of those hokey plastic safty cans vs how much gas I lost due to evaporation with those pleated retractabe spouts. If you look online or in stores you can find replacement acordion / pleated retractable. I bought some cause I figured their production days are numbered.

I had a pair of cylinders resleeved. I bought them dirt cheap with a patriot racing 4 mill drag port. It cost about as much as (actually a little cheaper) buying good nonported oem cylinders and having them ported. I had dan at patriot racing resleeve the cylinders. That way the sleeves are matched up correctly. Who knows the original port work better than the guy who originally done it. I would at least use a sight sponcer who speciallizes in banshee's over your local machine shop. The original porter would be best. I had big bore sleeves installed in mine. Why not gain some displacement while your at it. Some people will tell you big bore sleeves will choke the transfer ports due to there larger diameter. This is some what true depending on what sleeves you get. I had smaller big bore sleeves put in mine. The bore was 66mm to 68 or 68.5mm. I could see the larger 70 or 72mm big bore sleeves choking the transfers. The ones I had didn't go out to the head studs, and there was still aluminum against the sleeves in the transfer ports.