jbooker82

Or a maxxis 4 snow. I can pull a wheelie on my raptor with them on snow pack. Mounted on 10 inch wide rims. I had to tube them to get the bead to start.

I just bought 3 L of Bel Ray HR1 @ 21.00 bucks each. Currently I cant cant ride when ever I want to, so my banshee sits a lot. I havent rode it in 8months. I normally run klotz supertechniplate, but the caser oil in it gets gummy when it sits and dries out. There is no problem with the fuel in the tank but when the carb bowls dry out that is where it starts to get gummy. I took the carbs appart a week ago since it sat for 8 months. They were clean, with a little stabil left in the bowl. I just had a pilot jets partly pluged. Sitting that long it can happen with about any oil, but I though I would try a good synthetic oil.

I would go with a PWK 33 then. That way if you decide to ditch the 2:1 you can sell the intake by its self and buy another pwk33. I dont know how a 33 2:1 runs though. I never have ran a 2:1

You can also use a syringe and tube. Shoot the brake fluid back through the bleader up to res. Just try not to inject air. Air naturally wants go go up so if you fill it at the bottom it will help work the air up.

I will agree with you on that one. (and mod quad in general)

Dont run a carb on my 2:1 intake for maximum power. I just have a power jet hooked to the fuel tank installed in the intake.

My prodesign has been in my banshee since I have owned it. I bought in in 2006 and the previous owner has had in in there for a couple years.

F3's are forged. C5's are cnc machined. F3's have a 3 year warrenty and the C5's have a 5. Also make sure you get the pro pearch. It has a much better quick adjstment knob vs. the thum scew with locking thumb screw.

I run it. It seems to stays looking cleaner longer. The only other oil that I have tried that compairs is silkolene comp gear.

I too would run a mull water pump. The rest are just copies of the same style designe as the oem plastic piece.

I thought there should be no play.

The Maier Raptor Sytled plastic fits the best.

you can do what you want but once it does start slipping a simple flush and fill wont fix it. The only automotive oil off the shelf that isnt energy conserving that I know of is Diesel Engine oil. They dont have the energy concerving emblem. You can get a synthetic Rotella in a 5w-40. I just run a 2 stroke transmission oil. It shifts much better than engine oil, and it doesnt get contaminated as fast as ATF.

What does the bottle say in the bottom half of the API sevice doughnut logo. Is it blank or does it say energy conserving. The energy conserving oil has Molybdenum disulfide. It is a metallic like lubercant and once it has contaminated a wet clutch the clutch will need replaced. You can't flush it out of the fibers.

The power valve is like haveing a varable hight exhaust port. The higer the exhaust port the more hp you can build but it will be at a high rpm. A high exhaust port causes a poor midrange. So you have this valve the closes the exhaust port and lowers the port hight. It gives a good mirange. As the RPMs raise the valve raises, raising the exhaust port wich give a better top end. It allows an agressivly ported cylinder (Like a Drag Port) a stronger midrange. Something that isnt achievable by porting alone. The Trinity Cheeta is the most common power valve cylinder. The Cheeta cub is its baby brother with no powervalve.

I though the friction of the clutch fibers is what keeps it from slipping. 0 friction = slipping clutch. Yamaha specifies Yamalube 10w30. As long as your 10w30 is for a wet clutch then it is fine. If it is automotive engine oil it can cause your clutch to slip.

That should tell you about the R&D that L&A Sleeve put in to developing that cylinder. I would run CPI's. They are a good top end pipe. FMF's will just choak the top end and they wont make for a good midrange because the cylinder is supose to be a top end ported cylinder. You dont want top end power you have to change the cylinders and pipes. You cant force a top end cylinder to have a good midrange by putting midrange pipes on it.

Or see if you can get a spring split die. That way you can streatch it over the crank threads. Then you spin it off. Instead of starting at the damaged end of the threads, you start where they are good. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200398065_200398065

I run a boss internal crossover intake. They are nice. 15 dollar replacable mikuni boots. They move the carbs up and back so they clear the clutch arm.

Here is the link. It would be my cylinder of choice. I haven't had a cub but I have had a 4mill drag ported engine. It is fun when your at WOT but not having a mid range sucks for general riding. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134580

By track do you mean drag strip or mx? Cubs don't have a good midrange for general riding. They are a all top end engine. You can't really detune a cub to make it more midrange friendly. If you run your fmf's on it it will only hurt the top end, and you won't get any better midrange. I you need to talk to M&M about the Serval Cat cylinder. It was made for the duner's. It is the exact same cylinder as the cub only with lower port timings. It makes way better power in the midrange. It is only avalabe in 68mm bore +4mill stroke (421cc's) M&M posted a dyno graph. It made 50ft lbs of torque and 80HP. I believe that setup was with CPI pipes, pwk33mm carbs and pump gas.

Are you sure you don't have to bore the top case half? The cub is a drag ported engine so it needs a set of drag pipes. Shearers, cpi's, snipers, or rockets. You do realize your building a drag engine?

I quoted his instructions to show that he says to measure it one way, then later goes on and says to do it another way. Not as the word of GOD on how to use a ir temp gun.

I quoted your post. It doesnt say the closer you get the more accurate it is. The other great thing about aluminum is its ability to dissapate heat. Wich lowers your accuracy of measureing a hot bearing temp.

No offense taken, I was being sarcastic. Well then please explain the process of checking the temp of the conecting rod bearing with a IR gun 2-3 feet away (described as the best way by you)