jbooker82

Yea but it will also help you hold the throttle WOT. There was one on my banshee when I bought it. The tip of my glove on my index finger would catch the lever as my thumb would push it past. Let off with my thumb and my finger would keep the throttle held open.

Do you have aftermarket carbs like Kiehin? Those have a lot stiffer slide spings. Jeff at fast sells some lighter tension springs. I dont know if they work for stock carbs though.

It is like running nitrous through your carbs. 1 lb of gasoline requires 14.7 lbs of air. 1 lb of Nitromethane requires 1.7 lbs of air. When nitromethane is compress and burnt, it breaks down releasing oxygen. That is why it only requires 1.7 lbs of air compaired to 14.7lbs that gasoline requires. nitromethane produces 2.3 time more hp than gasoline. I dont know how you would be able to get the carbs to flow enough to run a high percentage of nitromethane. Most of the time when they run it, it will be mixed with methanol. The top fuel dragsters generally run 90% nitromethane 10% methanol.

Tell him his horse is scareing your banshee.

RM and RS stators are pure junk. I would start there.

If your clutch is slipping then changing the oil wont fix the problem. Ethire the clutch is miss adjusted, wore out, or you put the wrong oil in it.

All I know about the wompus. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134580&st=45

That would be fine. Yamaha manual specifies Yamaha lube 10w30. It is just a 4 stroke motorcycle "wet clutch" approved oil. I know a lot of guys that run Rotella in 4 stroke atv's with out any problems. Your just running a 4 stroke engine oil wich is what yamaha specifies. I just prefer to run a oil that is specifically desinged for 2 stroke gear boxes or 4 strokes that have seperate transmission / motor oil.

You talking about one of these?

1/4 in I.D. tygon fuel line is what I use.

Yea I thought I herd M&M say that too. Stock appearing cylinder wtih cub (drag) port timings.

I run a pro design. It has held up fine. If your current water pump is fine then I would just run it until you get your Mull water pump. I think he is developing a new shaft for his water pumps. The ones he has sold so far you had to reuse the OEM Yamaha shaft. He just sold the impeller head. That could be your hold up. josh

I run a nology coil with hot wires. I didnt notice a huge change. It did seem to make it start easier though. A hoter spark never hurt though.

Why it is cheaper to throw it away and buy a new one vs rebuidling one. I guess I would run a good quality crank before I would run one that is easier rebuilt.

You could always buy a couple MSD Superconductor coil wires. They are 18 inches long (might be a little to long). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-8-5mm-Replacement-Coil-Wire-84039-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56408cb0d6QQitemZ370450149590QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

What about where the A and J arm mount to the frame. The J arm is narrower so it will put more force on the frame (front to back)

Would that be the rusty pipes with a pin hole and a pair of cylinders that "Ran" with a cracked sleeve? Scrap weight doest make it right. Just a FYI. JD defiantly figured out not to respond to your posts. That way you go down in flames alone. Some times you should just lay low and not draw attention to your self.

It would make a great trail bike. The 4mill doesnt add a bunch of top end on its own. It gains you a stronger midrange. Wich in turn most people exchange for more top end by going with a more agressive port job and pipes. So you still end up with a stronger or as strong of a midrange with more top end.

That way he can claim you got the shocks. Just make sure you keep the tracking number or what ever. If it is a ups or fedex box then it should show the box weight.

I would sugest you call elka when you order the shocks. You will talk with some one and they can get the shocks dialed in very good. Most of the time people over or under estimate there riding skill level. I had my shocks set up as intermediate rider, Recreation style. Ishock HDUSA makes a great a arm. Dont get a caster adjustable a arm (a arms use hiem joints where they mount to the frame) if your not in to hard core racing. It is hard to set the caster properly and handeling will be greatly affected.

Which Permitex are you talking about. The only one I would ever consider is Permitex Moto Seal 1. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/specialty_gasket_maker/MotoSeal_1_Ultimate_Gasket_Maker_Grey.htm Permitex is a Brand not a name of a product. They make a couple hundred products so a little specification is in order.

With the cooling system pressurized to 16PSI I prefer to have them installed regardless if the are needed or not. As said above they are there to plug the hole that is needed to remove the sand.

No there is not. I use them alot. I just dont like getting charged 15 bucks for shipping then having it show up in a 4.95 flat rate box. Some ebay sellers use shipping prices to make extra money.