jbooker82

Yep 2mm brown bag color smoke ring is perfict. Lighter or thinner is lean. Darker and wider is rich.

Probably acts like a baffle to keep transmission oil from puking out the vent.

Yep direct drive's new die cast cover doesnt even have that vent cast in to the cover.

I dont think there is because automatic transmissions have the same style clutches as atv's and motorcycles. You will be fine running that Shell Rotella T 5w40. It is a diesel engien oil and doesnt have friction modifiers in it. I know a lot of people who run it in 4stroke wet clutch applications. I just prefer to run a oil desinged for a 2 stroke transmission.

It is an engine oil that is designed to be wet clutch compatable. Yamaha specifies running a 4 stroke wet cluch oil (Yamalube 10w30). It just wont be as light as atf. I run a 30 weight oil that is designed for a 2 stroke transmission. It just shifts better than a 10w30 engine oil, and it doesnt need changed near as much as atf.

If you dont do it now you will have to start over with new cylinders. Most of the time you cannon report cylinders for a 4 mill after they have been ported for a stock stroke crank.

Save up another 200 and get it ported.

I dont think you would notice any hp difference between the two different styles of lockup's. When the engine is running and the cltuch is spinning the oil is all spooled up around the clutch pack.

Lockup Clutch

Another easy way to tell if it is twisted. Put it in a box and send it to FAST.

Yea but the problem with running a twist throttle on a atv is that the atv pitches sided to side independtly from the rider. That action causes you to grab a whole bunch of throttle when you dont want it. On a Motorcycle the rider naturally leans with the bike. There have been many people who rode motorcycles there whole life try a twist and go back to a thumb. Usually the only place you see the twist throttle say around is on a dune machine.

The only oil that seperates at low temps is Klotz Benol. Caster oil seperates at low temps. Supertechniplate is 20% caster oil but it doesnt seperate out because it is blended with 80% synthetic. The oil isnt the problem.

I got it from cascade. I don't know what the difference is between Jeff at FAST's shift shaft mod and the shift pro kit. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=165

I run a Direct Drive lockup with a standard banshee transmission. Modded shift star and shift pro kit. It shifts fine with no overide. I run 6 oem springs for an easy pull and let the lockup do the work. I like how it launches with the 6 oem springs.

Yea. I look at it this way. A 4mill crank is a mid range mod. It helps make stronger mid range torque. You can keep that by keeping the porting not as agressive. Or you can exhcange that extra mid range for top end by running a more agressive port job, and still have a good midrange.

Yea I mis read the post. I was thinking stock crank to 4mill long rod.

Are you talking about the Transmission oil or the 2 cycle Pre Mix oil you mix with fuel?

That and you could possibley just be greasing the bolt and sleeve, and not the outside of the sleeve and bearings / bushings.

You can split the case now to clean it right or do later to replace the crank.

I guess it depends on if he is running a stock stroke cub cylinder now and wanting to up grade or if he is starting out fresh with all new parts.

If both pistons are at TDC or BDC at the same time.

I guess he didnt get enough serious post in the other thread so it is time to make a new one. If you dont get the information you want to hear. Just keep asking until some one tells you what you want to hear.

Yea blaster pistons are shorter and have a flater top.

I thought running a no name piston was a Taboo.