jbooker82

4,7,10,16 mill or stroker refers to the crank being moddfied. A 4mill crank has had the coneciting rod moved out 2mm from the center of the crank. This gives the pistons more leverage against the crank. It is like using a longer wrench or a pice of pipe on a wrench with a tight bolt. Since it has been moved out 2mm the piston now falls 2mm farther down the cylinder and comes up 2mm out of the cylinder. Total piston travel has been increased by 4 mm's. Same goes for all the other "mills" Jetting is changing the brass jets in the carbs. They are what meeters or controlls how much fuel to feed the engine.

The problem with that is it will make the vin un reconizable. The vin numbers are not stamped very deep. Almost like a lazer etching.

Sounds pretty good. I need a center channel and surounds now. The only problem is I live in an appartment and your living room and kitchen are 1 big room so there really isnt any place for them. The tuner has Rhapsody, Napster, Pandora, Slacker Radio, and V Turner all built in. So you can stream them directly through the AV Reciever. Like banshee's home audio can get expensive pretty fast.

x2. Other wise you run the risk of making the bearing surface out of round. It isnt like the crank directly runs on the engine cases. All it does is suport the bearing race.

Yea go go read his old posts and threads. Started out asking what ports are and ended up a porting professional. The original poster hasnt even said weather he is going to be running a spacer plate or cut domes. I guess it doesnt matter, it all ports the same. Hog them baby's wide open.

Does it actually look like it got hot or is it just blueing on the webs from when they heat it up to press the crank together?

If you dont know wich way to start off then porting probably isnt for you.

Nope the 3's dont have a Hight and Low option.

I would imagine the Haynes manual has the warrior lumped in due to the fact that they can half ass combine 2 atv's to put a book together with less detail on each atv. Claymer all the way.

I like my duro hook ups. They are a knock off version of the Maxxis I Razr. They are 6 ply raidail with nice wide spaced lugs.

I run a eyeball engineering swing arm on my 660 raptor with elka stage 3 shock and LT linkage. It has held up great, and built well. I wouldnt be afriad to run there front a arms. The shock mounts look pretty stout.

Is the chrome in good shape? I would do the first 6-8 inches in a high temp powder. Then do the rest in a translucent black. Black Chrome pipes would be sweet. I just don't think the translucent black would hold up around the exhaust port. Btw. I think they would notice the sound before they would notice the color.

That maybe the case for guys who have wide open areas. Get in the trees on some trails and see how you like a drag ported stock cylinder. I am just saying don't get all caught up in hp numbers. I would go pwk 35's at the minimum.

Yea probably 35's if your running a drag ported 4mill down the track. If your just doing general riding then I would go pwk33's but I also wouldnt run a drag ported stock cylinder 4mill. A drag ported 4mill isnt a whole lot of fun for any thing but wide open duning and drag racing. I tried a drag ported 4mill and in the trails it wasn't much fun.

That is what I want. Only with a manual transmission. They seem to be pretty rare. I hate the way diesel automatic transmissions feel. The seem soft, not a real firm shift.

Or just buy it from him so you dont have to pay shipping both ways over the road. Jeff at fast has a good price on hod rods cranks too. 400 for a true and welded hot rods stock stroke crank. 450 for a trued and extra welded 4 mill crank. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

I would run a noss head. I wouldnt want a head that is in 2 seperate pieces for each cylinder. A solid head will act like a girdle for the tops of the cylinders.

What about unleaded race fuel?

You could try a exhaust pipe expander. It has a nut you tightent down and it expands. There are a couple different sizes. This is a medium one. http://www.harborfreight.com/medium-tail-pipe-expander-37353.html

sorry no pic

I run mine because it keeps the radiator topped off. As coolant heats (expands) and cools (contracts). It will burp any trapped air and when it cools down it will pull coolant back into the radiator. I keep mine about hafl full when cold.

Do you run them on High or Low tension. If you look at the metal bar that holds them to the cage you will ethire see high or low. When you run them on high tension the metal bar presses on the reeds closer to the tips of the reeds. You want to run them on high. They wont last when ran on low tension.

I would like to replace the avenger +1's and works that I have now with some +2's and elka stage 3's but I just bought some parts for a Home Theater. Onkyo TX-NR808 reciever, a pair Polk RTI A7's, and a Polk DSW Pro550wi sub.

So what your saying is I CAN'T get Elka quality for $69.99 from china or thiland?

Yea unfortunatly I did. I only went round and round with them to try to get a matched set. The first set had 2 different ID's for the cores. Once fit the cpi's core perfict. The other was to small 7/8" i.d. So I sent the small one back to try to get antoher one. Well they sent me the same thing 7/8" i.d. On the thrid time they had one of there "Machinest moddifiy it for me. He took a die grinder and egged it all out. It wanst semetrical and looked like crap. I am pretty sure he also does the Stage 4 porting. I sent both back this time so they could see what I was talking about. One had a 1 1/8" I.D. the other was the 7/8" I.D. that was egged all out. They ended up sending me 2 of the 7/8" I.D. sparkies. So I just bought a big 1.0 " and a 1 1/8" in drill bit and modded them my self. I drilled the whole tip out to 1.0 in (same I.D. as the cpi core). Then I drilled the 1 1/8 in half way through. That way the core wouldnt slide out. Just made a step in it. I think it was 1 1/8 or it might have been 1 1/16. It has been a whiile and cant exactly remember.