jbooker82

I would try some rubber volcanizing / splicing tape. It looks like thick black tape and when you start streatching and wraping it, it sticks to its self and makes for a perminant bond.

Tygon is the best fuel line you can get. It stays flexalbe and does not deteriorate or discolor.

They make good products. I have their swing arm on my 660 raptor and it is built pretty stout.

Automatics and they sound like a harly davidson when you start them up. You should look at a Suzuki LTZ400, Kawasaki KFX400, or Artic Cat DVX400. They are all made by suzuki but have different colors, and the artic cat dvx400 has a little different body work. They are great starter atv's. They have a big wide soft comfy seat, they steer easy, and have a low 1st gear to get it rolling. They will ride much better than a warrior / raptor 350

Nice. What about "BHQ"? Is some one going to come in the middle of the night and steel my banshee since it has chase@miamiatv BansheeHQ stickers on it? or do I need to just pay you a royalty once a month in order to keep my banshee?

That is how my duro hookups came from rocky mountian. I just used a ratchet strap around the out side of the tire to force the bead out.

Make sure the carb and filter flanges are free of air filter oil.

If you have to replace the crank then I would deffinatly drop in a 4mill. Yes a stock stroke crank with ported cylinders will run circles around a 4mill that has non ported cylinders, but your compairing two different setups. Non ported stock stroke crank < non ported 4 mill Ported stock stroke < ported 4 mill

Yes you need to buy a nother set of pistons. If you run a 7mm thick spacer plate between the head and cylinders the piston will pop out far enough that the rings will come out of the bore. Long Rod crank requires 795 series pistons. Weather it is a long rod stock stroke or a 4 mill long rod crank you need 795 series pistons. With the 4mill stroker crank you need both the 795 series piston and a cut cylinder head.

I imagine the exhaust port caught a ring since the piston was installed backwards.

looks like she has a dick in that pic too.

No I haven't. I don't even have a photo editing program.

October black friday. M&M is a great site sponcer, and good guys to work with.

Lay you gasket on the bottom of the cylinder. Use the dowel pins to help hold the gasket centered. Then cut the gasket to match the transfer ports., Then lay a gasket over the top case half. Mark the case with a black marker. Only open the top part up. You dint want to open the whole thing cause you will go through the case and make a hole, especially on the stator side. You only go down a 1/2" or so. Pretty much just the vertical part. Where you see the bottom slope down you don't mess with. I just used a 1 piece (one big gasket for both cylinders) big bore gasket. It has a thin metal sheet in between the paper layers. It is also opened up more than the factory paper gaskets.

You just mill (typically around 0.030) off the stock head. I would look at mull engineering for the mill job. He just doesnt deck .030 off the head. he aslo rechambers the head. His user name here on BHQ is blowit http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-head-mod-billet-cut-modify-machine-squish-dome-plug-heat-race-drag-online-modify-modification

I prefer to use "cable life" lube. If the cable is quesionable I would just replace it. Check the slides for a grain of sand or two. It doesnt take very many to cause a slide to hang up.

You have to run 795 series piston with any long rod crank. Standard stroke or +4mill stroke. The conecting rods are 5mm longer and require a piston that has a 5mm off set wrist pin. When you run a long rod stroker you need 795 series pistons, and a cut cylinder head, or spacer plate. The cut head or spacer plate is for the extra 2mm that the piston will come up out of the cylinder.

I would like to try some HDR photography. It is when you take a series of under and over exposures. A computer program layers the photos on top of each other. Picking out the details in each one. You have to have a tripod because you need the pics to be exactly the same. Most cameras you can set to automaticly fire of a -1 stop under exposure, proper exposure, and a +1 stop over exposure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging

That is a nother thing to look for. If your domes are big bore then they could possibly be cut for blaster pistons and not banshee pistons.

Save up a $1000 bucks and buy a drit bike and keep your shee. MX bikes are cheap they absolutly hold no value. You can find 1-2 year old machines for $2500 so an older 00" machine should be easly found.

The ones I posted are big bore blaster piston 4mill stock cylinder domes.

I havent had a problem with my pro design. It has orings that go over each stud to seal them.

it looks like a big bore dome to me. You can but I dont know what measurement is supose to be for standard and big bore.

x2 That is when a 2 pice head is nice. I just grease up each o ring with vasoline. Put the o ring on the dome and set it over the bore. Then do the other side. Then put the slide the shell over the studs and down on to the domes. That way you can see that the domes are lined up before you put the top plate on. It is probably a big bore dome. They move the o ring out slightly so it can still seal and not be directly exposed to the combustion chamber. Here is a pic of a big bore dome. I believe they are for 66mm-68mm bores. I dont know if it is ok to use them on a small bore or not.

Junk them and get a Several cylinder. It is a dune ported 4 mill cylinder, or get a cub if your only drag racing.