jbooker82

Alcohol doesn't detonate huh? You better educate yourself more if you think alcohol doesn't detonate. Why don't you put some 14cc domes on your bike that runs alcohol, and tell us what happens! I believe this is why J-Madd posted that info. I don't think he was making a personal jab at you ethire. He was just stating that the O.P. was running methanol and not gasoline. I am sure J-Madd is verry aware that methanol can detonate as he runs several banshees on it. If the O.P. was supose to take your advice on the fuel, what fuel would you reomend running through a set of keihin carbs that have been moddified for methanol and has a higher octane rating than methanol?

I woudlnt run any a arms with Hiem Joints. They suck. Eventually they will become loose, squeek, and pop. I ran a bran new pair of ASR arms for about 3 weeks before I sold them for 150 bucks with brake lines just to get rid of them. If squeeks, rattles, and pop's describes your banshee then I am sure they will be fine for you. If you wanting a nice a arm then I would look else where.

Shouldnt you be running 9's on methanol. I dont have any experiance running methanol but I do know that they run B9ES or BR9ES plugs. What are your compression numbers? What is the squish?

Ask Loco what he thinks about a no name brand 10 mill crank. Garuntee you wont like what he has to say, and it comes with first hand knowledge.

And dont leave any wittnesses to testify against you.

How do you use a O2 meter on a machine that blows part of the fresh air and fuel out the exhaust port and relys on the pressure wave to force it back in? Wouldnt that show a false lean reading? Then you have to deal with oil ruining a $100 O2 sensor in minutes.

The long rod is more reliable. The longer the rod the less side load is on the piston skirts. Shorter rod has a greater angle and tries to push the piston through the cylinder.

Only a Super Roost Boost Bottle is worth it. Here is a dyno graph from one.

Ask Sloryder he is the self proclaimed porting master around here. Maybe he will chime in.

I see that. Must be some unhappy corvett owners. Trolling through minka38's feed back on ebay can be some good reading. I am surprised his 5 star rating for shipping category is so high. Anytime I buy stuff on ebay and the shipping is Fair priced it is 3 stars. Nethire unfare nor great, just middle of the line. I start off in the middle and go from there.

You just as well have asked who is more popular. That is the answers your going to get. Everybody is going to tell you theirs is the best.

+ shipping brings it even closer to RMATV with free shipping.

The good old bait and switch. Is it still rattle can ray since he now covers stuff up with carbon fiber

Yea because everybody should just jump on the hater band wagon before the supplyer has a chance to make it right.

Is this by experiance or just 2nd hand? I have ran big bore cylinders before and not all big bore cylinders choak the transfers. I had a pair of stock cylinders that were 4mill drag ported resleeved with big bore sleeves. The sleeves were 66mm-68mm bore. There are others that do go larger. To say that big bore cylinders will not make power is totally wrong. Yes porting does make more a more noticable difference. Big bores do make a difference but they cost a lot to get done. You cant just keep on porteing your cylinders to get more power out of them. Especially if your looking to buid a stout midrange machine. It has to be the right type of power not just the most. Here is a pic of the transfer ports of my big bore cylinders I ran. How do you figure the transfers are choaked down if there is still aluminum against sleeve? Just to show they are big bore sleeves.

Stroker crank will gain more toruqe. It moves the conecting rod journal out. This gives the conecting rod more leverage to turn the crank. Just like using a longer handled ratchet or cheater pipe.

I guess that backs up the fact that the Cub is cast as a drag port out of the box.

The smooth tires float on the sand better than dirt knobbies. They also turn better because the fin is like a boat rutter.

http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10968

You could always have some one put a heat emiting coating. It helps draw heat out.

You can get a manual clutch kit so you have a lever on the bar's. You can also use the warriors performance parts too.

yea they are easier to tune or that is what I have herd. I havn't ever had the stock mikuni carbs. My banshee came with PJ34's. I hated them and bought a pair of pwk 33's. If you going to end up with a dune ported banshee ethire stock stroke or 4mill then the PWK's would be a good carb for them. If you want to buy them now the I would and not look back. You just have to rember the more your engine is built the larger the gain you will see.

The pistons he is talking about have a notch cut out of the dome so the exhaust port opens sooner. It mimicks a port job. Yea you should wait on the porting if your going to build a 4 mill because more than likely your cylinders will not be able to be reported. You also have to be honist with your self too. You can spend for ever holding off on porting to build a 4mill and then end up never building it. A dune ported stock stroke banshee runs hard. It is a huge increase in power. I guess i would save the 300 twards a 4mill crank and porting if that is what the end goal is. I wouldn't bother doing new pistons because that money could be put twarks the 4mill build.

I would say it is a mixture of the lead and supertechniplate. Supertechniplate has 20% caster oil. Caster oil burns dirty. Supertechniplate is an excelent oil just burns slightly on the dirty side.