jbooker82

I would just buy a set of Prodesign studs. That way you have the right ones. There are orings that seal against them and having a stud be slightly smaller in diamter could cause a sealing issues. Plus their kits are not that expensive. Here is one for 35 bucks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Banshee-Pro-Design-Cool-Head-Studs-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2eccaf94QQitemZ400217124756QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 10 studs for 3.50 each is probably in the neighborhood you would pay for them at the harware store, so just buy the correct kit. The longer two studs do over the exhaust port.

Isn't tapered bearings better? If the ouside diamter is the same then it should be ok I would think.

Uprgadeing to the 12 bolt ring is worth it. My 6 bolt lexans would warp and seep a little transmission oil.

That looks pretty good. Now you just need a two little lines down twards the bottom front. Low and Full for the oil level. Keep it between the lines and your good to go. No dipskick needed. 35 bucks for a new engraved lexan or do I have to send my lexan to you?

that is what I would do. Just flush it a couple times running the old clutch. Just flush it with some cheap ATF type F transmission fluid.

I put two toggle switches on the back tank mount bolts. That way I can still turn the head lights on and off. Then put a Honda CR125 kill switch on the handle bars. Yellow wire from the stator conects to the one side of the switches. The blue voltage regulator also conects to the yellow stator wire before the switches. I hooked the tail light up so it is on all the time. Then run a wire from each switch to the low's for both lights, and then from the the other switch to the highs beams. The ground wires from the lights connect to a good ground.

Dyna Digital FS cdi has 4 prgrammed timing curves that are selected with a small box that has 2 micro switches.

Cascade if you care what the chrome looks like.

I was going to guess negative 10 due to the 2:1 carb.

When it chips or gets pitted it rusts. If you bend for flex it will crack the chrome and it will rust. Chrome looks good while it is in good shape but once it pits or cracks it looks worse. Look at all the aftermarket chrome wheels around you. When you see chrome plated steel are they in good shape or do they look like a rusted chrome wheel. The other down side is cost. That frame will have to be totally striped down, sanded and pollished smooth. The cost in chrome plateing is the prepwork, and there is going to be alot doing a frame.

Yea more members always nice. Mainstream for me would be having to be More Politically Correct, Nice. Kind of like when the big spot light is on you you have to behave vs. if you dont have a spot light on you then you can be hellians and have a good time.

I imagine the FMF's on a drag ported engine will hurt the top end more than gain bottom end. Especailly since your looking for bottom end. It just depends on how you look at it. If your going from a stock ported / mild port job to a drag port with less than ideal pipes your still probably going to be happy because your on you way for the ultimate top end power. If you have a drag port with drag pipes and are looking for bottom end and just trying a trail pipe then your probably are not going to be very happy with the results. Port the cylinders to your riding style / power needs then run the correct pipe that matchs the porting. Trying to foce bottom end on a drag ported motor by running fmf's or trying to get top end using shearers on a stock ported motor isnt the best idea. Yea it will have some affect but the draw backs are greater when running miss matched parts. I built a Patriot Racing Drag Ported 4mill with cylinders that were resleaved with big bore sleeves (66mm-68mm) and cpi's. It was an awesom wide open machine. Just like you said it would try to pull your arms out. I do trail ride and it sucked in the trails. It was the wrong kind of power for the type of riding I do. My best advice on any new build is be realisic with the power you need and don't get blinded chasing huge HP #'s.

My Direct Drive clutch cover doenst even have the vent.

I will take the crank case vent hoses

I would look for bent rods. Long rod crank = 5mm longer rods. Standard piston means the piston is going up 5mm farther than it should. That is a pretty big number to be off and I dont think it would just make marks on the piston crown and cylinder head. Somthign had to give.

Nice to hear the other side. I have bought stuff from KB Motorsports and have been happy. Good guys to deal with.

Yea I have seen those, and a heat sink that moves the o2 sensor out from the exhaust. Does the O2 sensor on dyno's have a shield over the tip to keep it from getting directly sprayed?

Or do it the right way and use a T pin and remove the conector from the harness plug.

That and the oil would massivly foul the o2 sensor.

The 01 raptor aslo had 3 dogs on each gear. Yamaha redesigned the transmission with 4 due to the 01's transmission failures.

I didnt think you could accuratly use a O2 meter on a 2 stroke due to the fact that unburnt fuel and air blows out the exhaust port. Yea the pipe's job is to create a pressure wave to force it back in but it isnt 100% efficent.

Yea that is what I did. All the black with white stripe wires tie in to each other. There will be a crimp where they all come together. Just snip them off their. I also took the wiring from the stator to the cdi out of the wiring harness and kept them seperate. I didnt cut them or any thing just re wraped them seperatly. Removed the lighting circut and remade one out of heavier gauge wire with rubber covered toggle switches mounted to a plate bolted on the rear fuel tank bolts. Removed the handle bar head light / kill switch and installed a Honda CR125 push button kill switch.

Cylinders are cast aluminum with iron sleeves. As for the exact alloy i dont have any idea.

Pull all the tape off the harness and cut the wires completly out. That is what I did with mine.

14-15 cents a pound is the current scrap iron price.