jbooker82

Or SLORYDER. I would say that his stuff is deffinatly iffy.

You dont have to go with a pressure activated pv.

That and if it had wiseco's in their before the bore will probably be way to large since a forged piston needs a larger clearance vs a cast.

It costs more money in the long run when you cheap out vs. doing it right the first time.

I would go with V force. I know chariot is a site sponcer and makes good products, but 2x as many reeds opeaning up half as far = faster responce time, and less wear.

Yep they don't get it. In order for this to be a discussion forum it requires them to come back to discuss. Some times you would think this is www.ask.com or yahoo answers.

And for me that is everything you should have with a ported stock stroke as well. It will cost you less money to save up and build the stroker the first time than port your extra cylinders now and have to start over when you build the 4mill. Your already tossing around the Idea of building a 4mill so it is going to happen. Save up the extra cash now and build the engine once instead of twice. A ported stock stroke engine will run circles around a stock ported 4mill. Send your extra cylinders out for a 4mill port job and a fresh bore with 795 series pistons. That way they will be ready to go when you buy / get a 4mill long rod crank.

Drive through a few alleys looking for the box.

What about a TLD Air helmet. That is what I want to get when I get a new one. 12 intake vents and 5 exhaust. They have a winter liner avalable to keep you head warm in the winter so maybe they do flow a good amount. http://www.troyleedesigns.com/products.php?cat=32

But is the pickup coil stock? It says you have put a new one on. Yamaha doesn't sell them seperatly. If it is an aftermarket one I would ditch it. I think with the junk stators that cause top end running issues, it is the pickup coil that is actually doing it. There isn't to many people who will cut up a good OEM oem stator and put Yamaha mada pickup coil on a junk Ricky Stator. Rightfully so I wouldn't do it ethire.

That is my guess too.

Start with a pressure washer / steamer if you can. 200+ deg water cuts grease pretty well.

Are you getting any coughing or back firing through the carb. That can break them and suck them in to the engine. It doesnt take much of one to toast a set of reeds.

Grab the top of the tire and push it in and out. After a while you will feel play in the hiem joint. WD40 or any other oil will attract and hold dirt. It is a nonsealed joint and dirt and sand is going to make its way in. The penitrating oil just masks the problem A ball joint is sealed. The boot keeps the grease in and the dirt and water out.

What kind of cool head is it? Is it coming from between the head and cylinders or up and around the studs? What kind or brand of o ring kit are you using?

I bet an old rusty stock one with bad bearigns would be what shows up.

They say they have more than ten. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Billet-Resevoir-Clamp-Works-Shocks-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf56cd242QQitemZ330535064130QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That is what I was going to say too.

I would get a nology coil or dyna digital coil.

Then wouldnt it be a carb spacer? You would also have a small carb boot opening dumping in to a large square opening, then going back in to a smaller opening of the reed cage. That would cause a lot of turbulance and have a negative affect on flow. I would leave them like that my self.

I just ment lighting cirucit. Anywhere where the power is coming from the yellow bullit conector on the stator harness.

Yep x2

I woudl do Extended A arms for a better ride.

I have mine hooked up to the lighing circuit on my banshee. That way the LED back light is always on, and it is brighter than using the internal battery.

I have a direct drive new die cast cover. It originally came with a 6 bolt lexan. DD sold me a new 12 bolt ring and lexan. I cant remember what they charged though.