jbooker82

The same is true for methanol but I don't see guys switching back to race gas. You make up for the " less energy density" by running more. You will probably have to have your cards setup as alcohol carbs. You will also need to run a premix oil that blends with alcohol. Like klotz supertechniplate, original techniplate, benol, or maxima castor 927.

V force reeds do not have reed stops. You have 2x as many reed petals opening up half as far. The reeds don't fully open. Since the only move half the distance there is less wear and tear on them. They also have faster response time. No screws on the 3's. They just snap together. There should be an insert inside the reed cage though. It helps keep the reeds cage snapped together tight.

might as well throw 33's in that same category since pwk 33's have the same bodie as the PWK 35's.

Why not polish them and have them clear powder coated right away. The clear coat should seal them to keep the aluminum from oxidizing and turning dull gray.

Way better a arms than ASR or Full Flight. I have HD USA a arms on my raptor and they are built tough with quality ball joints.

Stock pipes + FMF silencers = Low power and More noise. FMF Expansion Chambers + Stock Silencers = More power and Less noise. By switching silencers yoru gaining noise. By swithcing headers your gaining power.

Yep good guy to deal with even if it is just to buy parts.

There is an expensive pocket bike that is actually pretty fast. They have sanctioned races with them. Not saying this is one but they do exist.

You also need a carb sync to set the pj's idle speed knobs. That way both carbs are pulling the same amount of air.

That and any mains you buy for the PJ's should be the same for the PWK's.

Or they would have just expcted the Manufacture to have done the research on the proper size realation ship between the Master cylinder and slave cylinder. No need to try to reinvent the wheel.

Its not that they wont work they are just not Ideal. They are a pretty large carb for a stock motor / stock piped banshee. I would look for a set of Keihin PWK 28mm carbs. They are much better than the stock carbs and wouldnt be to large for your setup. Their are people on here who run the knock off OKO 30mm carbs but I wouldn't. A junk carb can cause way to much head ache for me so that is why I would stick with genuine Keihin carbs.

There are 50+ different needles you can run in keihin carbs. First letter is the taper angle, middle letter is the length, last letter is the diameter. CEK and a CEL have the same taper and lenght but different diamters. The diameter controls the amount of fuel in the 1/4 throttle area. As you work your way down the alphabet they get leaner in the 1/4 throttle range. So the CEK is a little more rich in the 1/4 throttle range vs a CEL.

I woudlnt have a clue for stock pipes and porting. I ran 162 to 165 mains, CEK needles middle clip, 55 pilots when I had a ported 350 with pods, and FMF SST's and T5's. I now run PWK's because I got tired of messing with the idle speed / choak nobs. The pj's needed larger pilots than the pwk's. I think that is because they are not as efficiant at pulling fuel up from the bowls and atomizing it.

I will start tooth pick finger nail cleaner awl scribe corn on the cob holders Hold a 3 layered club sandwitch together Deflate the tires on your ex girl friend's car

maybe he jetted it for an air leak

6 bucks at lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_239658-930-324621N_0__?zipCode=68358&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_239658-930-324621N_0__%3FproductId%3D1207839%26Ntt%3Dpick%2Bset%26pl%3D1%26currentURL%3D%252Fpl__0__s%253FNtt%253Dpick%252Bset%26facetInfo%3D&catalogId=10051&productId=1207839&pl=1&findStoreErrorURL=StoreLocatorDisplayView&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4058f6df2c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%405816df2c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%405836df2c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%405856df2c%2C+com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%405876df2c%5D&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dpick%2Bset&Ntt=pick+set&URL=TopCategoriesDisplayView&langId=-1&storeId=10151

Yep get a little oil in them then they gum up and quit working. (plug up) I just use a long pice of Tygon fuel line. I go clear down the frame so any fuel doesnt drip on the exhaust pipes like it does when you just have the vent hose tucked behind the tank shroud.

A pick set really helps out. Just start the one end and lip it around.

Yep it will hold the spark plugs until the pistons have a hole melted in them. Now if they could make something to keep pistons from melting.

I just figure if it is hard on a CDI it is hard on a CDI doesnt matter what brand it is. The black with white stripe wire is designed to shut the motor off. That is its purpose and how I would hook it up.

You shoudn't wire them up to the orange wire to the ignition coil. Grounding that high voltage wire can damage the CDI. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/support/dynatek_faq.aspx#610

Probably got one for domestic cars and not an import one.

I would get a mull engineering water pump. They are a better design than the aluminum copy's of the OEM plastic water pump. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-billet-waterpump-water-pump-impeller-drag-race-radiator-online I would also stay away from mod quad. They have had some that were made out of to soft of a material. The seal wore in to the impeller shaft and it leaked coolant in to the transmission.

is the pickup wire pluged in to the correct wire on the trail tech vapor?