jbooker82

Yep me too.

Chain everything together. I do a 3 machines and make it so they cannot push them away becasue they are all facing a different direction. I also go through the frames that way they cannot unbolt a pumper and be free. I use a couple Kryptonite chains and locks. 16mm hardened hex chain isnt going to be cut with anything other than powertools. Not my pic but a good one that shows how massive it is.

Havent really heard anyting about the coils, just stay way from their stators. They are supose to be junk just like ricky stator. Most people who swap coils usually go with a nology or dyna for a hotter spark.

How do you figure they external head temp would be hotter than the liquid temp that is coming from the inside of the head? The water temp should be higher than the surface temp of the head.

Looks good. Sleepers are deffinatly fun.

FMF probably has one of the best spark arrestors avalable. Every one elses look like a last second slap on mod. FMF's doesnt really use a screen. It has a core that spins the exhaust like a tornado. It forces particles to smash against the out side wall. A spark arrestor has to ethire trap particles to a certian size or break them up. FMF's break them up so there is no screen to plug up. Or this is what I have been told.

What cards and jetting are u running. I would guess it is a jetting issue if it just occurs in the midrange.

Yep right at the exit on the front of the head. I shut mine down at around 225-230. Best way to cool down a hot shee is to point the radiator in to the wind on the top of a dune and let it idle.

When was the last time the spark arrestor was talken out and cleaned? When I use to run the cobra sparkies on my toomies I woiuld take the spark arrestors out and put them in a bucket of carb dip and let the sit while they were not in use.

Yea I understand that. I just ment the clear silicone that you see at the parts stores. Kind of goes in the category with the RTV's Here what it is like to use too much yamabond. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87567&st=0&p=750898&hl=yamabond&fromsearch=1entry750898

theshee had some nice pics of a motor he bough. Yamabond was inside the crank bearings and it rolled over real stiff.

When I said silicone I ment the tube of Goo that is labeled clear silicone. Not every product that contains silicone. So are you endorsing that every product that contains silicone is ok to use then?

x2. You need a new clutch basket. Best time to upgrade to a billit basket.

AH so you got the good ol Minkia38 bait and switch. You never get what is pictured with his auctions.

I believe they should work with the switch removed. I think they are supose to use the stock ignition curve when the switch is removed. Do you have a teather kill switch and how is it installed?

U said "wang"

Or use +3 a arms with a 4/1 offset in the front. It will be as wide as +2's with a 3/2 offset but it wont have as much bump steer.

You could start by chopping that pic in half lenght wise. You dont need to see the 30+ feet of sand in front of you.

I keep one in my riding tool box. They work good to splice a blown hose back together.

probably a lot cheaper advertising than a Dirt Wheels ad. Glad you got it going, now see how it holds up.

I was refering to aftermarket levers, show me an aftermarket lever that is marketed as Standard Pull or Hard Pull. The point I was making is that most aftermarket levers are marketed as ez pull but they are not nessessarly so. In other words buy a good reputable lever. And the length of the lever is just as important as the other end where the cable hooks up to.

Sounds like Lectrons are a lot like the Preditor Carburetor. A big simple box that dumps a ton of fuel. http://predatorcarb.com/home.html

They are all EZ pull levers. No MFG makes a standard or hard pull. They make them as eazy as they can and actuate the clutch just enough to get it to disengage. Also the length of the clutch lever determines how hard it pulls. Longer lever easer pull. So that stubby lever you posted isnt going to be that great. It is called a stunt lever because it is so short that the end of the bars will hit the pavement before the lever will, so it wont break when your "Stunt goes terribly wrong".

Isnt that pro flow intake for a banshee? I know it isnt for the raptor for sure. The head needs to include the rocker cover since they are a machined set. Other wise the cam bearing clearance will no be with in spec.

E85 is actually not as harsh on the fuel system as methanol. I would still treat it like methanol and flush / puge the fuel system after I am done riding.