jbooker82

I could run mine with no cross over plate.

port it and buy another 35

What is wrong with a built in crossover. Mine has genuine Mikuni boots, and doesnt leak. I did yamabond it just in case. You can buy genuine mikuni boots from dennis kirk for 15 bucks or so. If any thing it acts as a girdle. I my banshee originally came with UPP intakes and 34mm PJ's and the carb had to be tilted so the clutch arm wouldn't hit the carb drain / plug. It looked like the perviouse owner bent the lever down and ground down the drain plug as well.

He must like hot steamy man love.

You can slightly hear it in these two videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Due7mkTHMlw&feature=related

To me it sounds like marbles rattling around on top of the pistons. Never herd it on my banshee. If i lug my mustang around a corner (down to or slightly below Idle speed), when I get back on the throttle it does it momentarly until the knock sensor steps in. It only does it when it is hot.

No but you can buy one set of these. Now you just need to keep an extra steering stem and pitman arm on hand. http://www.americanstarracing.com/X-SeriesTieRods.html

I agree. Most of the cheap ebay company a arm manufacutres use junk hiems. My hiem tie rods I believe are teflon or kevlar lined. You can see where it looks like a plastic has been injected inside the hiem. The ASR A arm hiems also looked to be the same. But like any thing there probably is junk teflon or kevlar lined hiems, and good quallity lined hiems. You cant expect a 3-400 dollar a arms to come with expensive high quality hiems.

The square intake might better suit Vforce 2's. I run V Force 3's with cascade's reed stuffers / retainers. They allow you to remove the plastic insert and have a big square opening. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=83

Matoon Machine http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-34-36MM-/320744283846?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aadd95ec6 I believe FAST's intake is a White Knuckle intake. It has the cross hairs in it. It is supose to keep air flowing straight thus increase the intake velocity. They also have a round hole so they would match up to V Force 3's much better. I would port or open up the plasic insert in VForce 3's so they were the same size as the intake's round opening. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=190

A thick billit one with a built in cross over. It will move the carbs up and back so the LH carb bowl wont hit the clutch arm. Mine is a Boss Racing. White Knuckel also makes a good one. You can replace the intake boots for $15 when need bee.

Yep. Along with creeking and poping. I guess it depends on what heims you have. I had a set of ASR a arms and they squeeked and poped after the first ride. I ended up selling them to a friend and bought a set of I Shock or HD USA a arms. I still have ASR's x pro tie rods. Which ever they are. They are honda style where the tie rod threads in to the joint. The hiems dont squeek on them so they are good for now.

I think the probelm is that the bronz bushing is part of the gear on the back of the basket. So you have to buy the whole basket in order to replace it. Kind of like your have to with the kick starter Idler gear. Only jeff has found one you can press the old one out and put a new one in.

back togther with a new basket?

Not really. You would have to cut both the CPI and FMF's silencer's stinger tubes. The small pipe that conects between the expansion chamber and silencer body. You could cut them and graft them back to gether so they would work but it might not look the best. You could always cover it up with a heat wrap. CPI Silencers with Trinity Spark Arrestors before polishing. After.

Only $275 shipped http://www.banshee-cooling.com/index.htm

snug with a box end wrench.

I am sure it works fine for that. Your exhaust flanges dont see a lot of gasoline. That and the temp doesnt allow fuel to sit and eat away at the sealer.

And if you use all 4 fingers then the pinky is out at the end of the standard lenght lever, thus using the entire length of the lever. Longer lever = easier pull that is all I was stateing in my original post.

Yes when comparing standard length levers to standard length levers. And by doing that your chainging the ratio between the two. So once you have gone as short as you can on the clutch cable side (bare minimum clutch cable travel to disengage the clutch) the long or standard lenght lever will pull easier than a shorty. So in other words with everyting being the same from the fulcrum to the clutch cable the longer lever has an easier pull. MSR Pro Raptor Standard length is easier to pull than the MSR Pro Raptor shortie.

As long as they were the same diameter or close. If it is the choice between a flat rear or running a 21x7 on the rear i bet the 21x7 would be the better choice.

I just never cared for vitos because most of their billit suff was just relabled Mod Quad stuff. Mod Quad stuff is just low quality pirated coppies. The one thing I would buy from them is their 240cc cylinder for a blaster, if I had one, and I dont plan on getting one any time soon.

didnt yamaha do that so when they raced the baja or desert races if they needed to change a flat they would all be the same bolt pattern?

Which high temp silicone do you use. I haven't ever seen a high temp silicone that is ok to use with gasoline.

Drill a hole in the tire tread. Start it up. Lift the back end up. Put it in 6th and wind it up. Put a plug in the tire and inflate.