jbooker82

Wich could allow the impeller to catch or hang up on the clutch cover, thus breaking the plasic gear.

That or about any place that does small engine repair.

Any place where you can get them shipped for free. Other wise it costs an arm and a leg to have them shipped on your dollar. RMATV does free shipping on orders over 100 bucks. That includes tires.

Most guys dont run 7 mills any more. Since you have to trench the cases they just go a head and do a 10mill. It costs about the same to build a 10 mill and a 7mill.

Tygon is the only brand of fuel line to run. It is the super flexable yellow stuff. I cant remember the size if it was 1/4 inch or 5/16 inside diameter. I do run a dual pignel and pwk carbs.

If I ever start getting hounded about spark arrestors I would probably just graph on some FMF Turbine Core II silencers on to my CPI stinger tubes. That way it will be 100% legal and the stinger tubes will hook up to the CPI expansion chambers just like they are supose to. FMF Turbine Core II's probably have one of the best expark arrestors you can get. It is a turbine style that I belive has no screen. A spark arrestor has to ethire catch particles down to a certian size, or break them up in to small enough pieces. I belive fmf's turbine cores spin the exhaust and break particles up by smashing them. I dont think they have any screens inside.

I dont have any suggestions. Sorry it was more of a rant about pipe mfg's not having any spark arrestor options. It would be nice if the big dune pipe mfg's (Shearer, CPI, ect) would make or have the option for a USFS approved spark arrestor instead of having their customers buy clamp on sparkies that look like crap, or just running nothing at all. Just seems like they could care less and promote (certinly dont discourage) illegal riding. In order to be 100% legal the silencer has to have the USFS Approved Stamp / Logo along with an approval #. Any thing less is considered non approved and your subject to the good will nature of the officer questioning you. Besides cramming that screen on the end of the core greatly reduces the surface area in wich exhaust can flow. That causes a big restriction and doesnt take hardly any packing to plug it up. Trinitys sparkies do not have the USFS approval stamp ethire. I havent had a probem with any rangers where I ride yet but I havent rode that much in the forest since I have originally moddifed them.

Jaming a screen in a non spark arrested pipe is not USFS legal. You just as well run nothing because it is the same thing in the eyes of the forest service

Out frames also keep tall grass pushed away from you.

Pretty much need the following. 4mill crank Cylinder head with cut stroker domes, or a custom cut stock head. Cylinder spacer will work but it also alters the port timing since it raises the cylinders hight. If your running a long rod 4mill crank you will need 795 series pistons. This is for the longer rod, and is required for both a stock stroke long rod or a 4mill long rod crank.

Yea but just dont go all out and get a drag port job unless your building a drag only setup. If you do any kind of trail riding a drag port with no low end and midrange sucks. A dune / play port job is a pretty fun machine. It gains you midrange and top end at the expense of low end, but hay at least you get a strong mid and top end. Where on a drag port is is a whole lot of nothing then an explosion from 6,500 / 7,000 rpm to 9,000 / 9,500 rpm.

Yea they will still run and be ok, just not the ideal situation. Well a stock ported cylinder is never the ideal situation ethire. A port job will really wake your banshee up.

Sounds like a set of CPI inframes is what you need. Pretty much a T5 on steroids. It is an inframe drag pipe but it comes on sooner than Shearer's. Shearer's make a little more on the top end but dont come on as soon as the CPI's.

What ever the difference, price should not dictate weather you chose to run a Long or Short rod 4mill crank. If you run a short rod crank then you will be reaplacing pistons more frequently wich would negate the cost of the more expensive 795 series pistons. That is just if you caught it before it gernaded.

I am not for sure. I only run a 14T. It does look like a tight fit though. I would moddify it just enough to clear. Then let the chain wear it the rest of the way in.

I guess to me cleaning pipes is just that. A general cleaining, not restoring old rusted chrome. If the pipes are not junk rusted chrome I wouldnt use any steel wool. Steel wool isnt going to touch these. Or at least not until they are junk.

I would start out with 0000 steel wool. When your done polishing wipe them down with Acetone. It will remove left over polish and finger prints for a grease free shine.

SOS pads may be ok on crappy rusty pipes but I wouldnt use them on good chrome. You will scratch and put swirls in the chrome.

TM Design Works is the best case saver. It is brased against the cases so it wont honk on the small 3 mounting screws near as bad. It is also plastic so it absorbs engergy instead of transfering it.

You can take the steels and rough them up a little. It will given an old clutch a little renewed bite.

So is this just personal theory with a yes it is mechanicaly safe to run answer? I run fuel that has ethanol with no problems. Just keep your fuel sealed.

Cotton Candy or Grape

Cascade heat wrap only on the LH exhaust stinger. Running CPI's with a Boss Racing intake, PWK33's and 10 deg angled K&N's. 20 deg was to much.

There ebay page is even cheaper than calling them. I needed 2 billit res clamps / brackets. I had seen they had them on ebay for around 20 bucks each. I just called them up and ordered them. They didnt give me a total. I about crapped when I recieved them. 2 clamps phone orded from them were 80 some dollars when they were selling them for 20 bucks each on ebay.