jbooker82

So by having the shop do it because you were to buisy you gained 5 minutes Idle time, and 2 minutes ride time. Guess it would have been better to leave it parked broken until you could get around to doing it your self. But then again you would have missed that 2 minute ride.

No personal experiance here but I have heard guys say that it is out dated. They said that you can build a bigger cc Cheetah Cub (non power valve) DM or DMX and it would have more bottom and top end than the power valved cheetah

They need some titanium tips that way they throw white hot sparks

The tach is usefull for setting idle rpm. Any digital gauge really shoudln't be looked at when riding. They are to hard to read and take to long to process the information. That is why 99% of race cars use analog gauges.

I would just clean the castings up my self. Ice and TT racing isnt about making the most HP. It is about having a smooth power delivery so you dont blow the tires off. It is traction that is the problem, not a lack of HP, especially if you already have a several. If your wanting a true TT engine I would have probably went with a 4mill Passion 12 port TT engine. Probably not as much top end HP as a several but it would have the best power delivery.

Yea I see that now too. +8 is way to much. Just cause you plate has +10 doesnt mean you should use it. +4-5 is plenty.

The one and only world famous David Noss. There you go. The best and only solution if you want to keep your current head. There is way more to a 2 stroke dome than keeping the piston from hitting the head. Dome size (wich changes any time you machine them), squish band lenght / width, squish band angle.

For the ultimate budget beater, mod your stock timing plate, shave the stock head, and port the cylinders.

there is so much interfearance coming out of the banshee's igniton system when running non resitor plugs I could get a RPM reading with out even hooking up the tach pickup lead to my vapor.

I would run the stock head until you get your crank welded, unless you want to buy a set of pump gas domes. If your wanting to run race fuel weld the crank and I wold probably run 18cc domes at 1000 ft elevation.

yep. Just make sure to run BR8ES plugs. They help cut down the interfearance that messes up the Trail tech.

That second one looks much better. Just make sure to keep them clean and packing free.

well if your running over 185-190 psi of compression your actually doing more damage than good. When you start to go overboard you decrease the top end due to the more force required to compress the air and fuel. If you running at 5000+ feet elevation your probably fine but you didn't state what your altitude is. I also wouldnt run race gas domes on a non welded crank. It puts a lot more stress on the crank and can cause it to twist out of phase, or seperate.

The only thing is you greatly reduce the sufrace area of the spark arrestor screen wich greatly reduces the flow. That is why a spark arrestor screen is a dome. Just keep an eye on them. They will fill up with fibrglass packing pretty quick.

Use Vasoline on the o rings. Do not use any assembly lube or grease. It can plug the radiator, vasoline will melt and disperse. What kind of head do you have. If it is a two pice head then do it this way. Put vasoline on the combustion o rings. Put them in the domes. Then set the dome over the cylinder bore. Do the same for the other side. Put vasoline on the o rings that seal up the out side of the coolant passages of the cylinders. Then slide the shell down over the studs and domes. Make sure you line the domes up with the locating fingers with the notch in the dome. Then vasoline the small orings that go over the studs. Place all those o rings in place. Finally vasoline the smaller o rings that seal the top of the dome and the larg one that seals the out side of the top plate. Place them in the grooves and put the top plate on. It is much easer to install a cool head piece by piece than to install the whole thing trying to keep all the o rings in place. That is a huge advantage of a two piece cool head.

They will work. T5's might actually be better on a non ported machine. I would get CPI's if you plan on porting and just need to buy new pipes now. If you plan on staying non ported then I would probably get a more traditional pipe.

3 beer coozy.

Some times heating up the stud and aluminum will help break them loose. They heat and cool at different rates so it can break corosion loose. You want to heat the stud and aluminum up pretty good. Then let the entire thing cool down. Then try removing it. If nessessary then re heat just the aluminum part. This is also what helps removing broken studs by welding a nut on. You heat the broken off part as well as the part it is threaded in to. Then when they cool the corosion has been loosened by the expansion and contraction of two different types of metal.

I think you also have to switch silence body sides too. You also need change the clock position of the rear silencer plate. So you will have to drill 3 new holes and re tap them. Maybe some one with experiance will chime up. I it might have been JDS who use to make a silencer braket as well.

Looks like it has a heavier coat of clear sealant than any ricky stator I have had. The ricky stators I had looked like they were just dipped in a real thin coat of varnish, where his has a real heavy build up. Almost like clear silicone.

There is such a thing called Bad Buyers.

I guess Al_Scrap should also find a new suspension guy.

Your right just makeing sure he understands what he is in for when running out of frame pipes. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147691

I thought by the diameter of the stinger tubes. I would only use out of frame pipes on a purpose built drag racer that sees a groomed track. Out of frame pipes weigh a little more and dont mount as solid as an inframe pipe. There is a lot of weight mounted way from your banshee and rough terrain can tear them up.

Yes because that mimmics a port job. The advanced exhaust port timing is what causes the extra power. A port job is the better way to achieve it vs cutting a piston head down. A real port job > vitos pistons.