jbooker82

The compression of the motor will hold it. Like said above buy some water based lapping compound. Put a little on the cranck taper. Then just twist the flywheel back and fourth. Make sure not to get any in the crank seal. Then just clean it all up. The water base cleans up better than the grease base lapping compound.

the taper should hold the flywheel in place. I still would never install a flywheel with no key. When ever you change flywheels you should lap the new flywheel to the crank.

Dave Moore Racing. Is he still around? His web site is. http://davemooreracing.com/Contact_Us.html Dan Wade from Patriot Racing is a good guy to deal with. I had him resleeve a pair of cylinders for me. He is in Booney Lake, WA http://www.patriotracing.net/

Liquid Performance's TopKote makes for a pretty good shine on plastic.

Like having a dry film lubercat hold 2 stroke oil on the skirts of the piston.

Guess that is why they wanted to see the cylinder after other builders have fixed the problems.

Think what you want but engine coatings do work. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0612_engine_coatings/

My last piston I put in my raptor I had swan tech do the Gold Coat on the piston head. It is a little tougher higher temp coating. The funny thing is they sent me the wrong piston back. I kind of knew what to expect because they called me the day before I recieved it to give me a heads up. I got some guys 80cc piston, and he got my raptor's 102mm piston. We both sent them back to swain tech and they sent them back out to the correct people. Nothing major just a little mix up.

I would have the exhaust port coated after having the pistons and domes done. That way you keep the exhaust heat in the exhaust, and not soaking in to the cylinders. That would attribute to a cooler running engine. If you had nice chrome pipes could could also have them coated on the inside. This will help keep them from turning blue.

The damage was done right off the bat when the motor locked up. I then ran 70 gallons of fuel through the engine before I had a cylinder come loose and blow the base gasket out. That is what I found when I went to replace the base gasket. The problem was the cylinder bore clearance was to tight down in the bottom of the bore. I could get a feeler gauge in there but it was a snug fit. As for the stuff on the tops of the piston I think it is from running leaded race fuel. Normal lead deposits, and probably rich jetting.

Dont buy a ricky stator or any other non oem flywheel. You can see the rust coming out of the flywheel where the rivits have loosend up. One rivit head sheared off. Stuck to the outside of the flywheel and took out the pickup coil.

I would run the FAST clutch but only after yours is gone. No need to change it out now when it is still good. You could probably throw a set of HD springs in it and it would last quite a while.

No you wont need the domes cut extra for the ceramic coating. It was around $160 bucks for the pistons and domes. I had the TBC done on the domes, and piston head, and PC9 on the skirts. I though about sending the cylinders in to have the intake coated with a flow coating, and the ehaust ports TBC. You can seak about as much money as you want in to internal engine coatins. They do work because they are used in racing applications, and now auto mfg's are starting to use them as well. I didnt do it to make more hp. I done it to improve reliability. I had high compression because the engine is setup to run straight 110 race fuel.

You couldn't even feel those marks with your finger nale. It was like they were drawn on. Here is what the pistons and domes look like from the coater. I used Swan Tech out of NY.

Here is what happens when you put a motor together that is on the tight side. I heat cycled it a few times. Took it out for an easy ride. Put about half a tank ride time on it. Went and opened it up to do a wot 1-6 gear pass. When I let off the throttle the back tires locked up. I grabed the clutch and snapped it a few times and it broke loose. It continued to Idle just a little slower than normal. I let it idle for a little bit and took off finished my ride. No other probelms. Compression tested out at 185/185. Fast forward about 60-65 gallons of fuel. I had a cylinder nut come loose and blew a base gasket out. I shut it down at the first sign at a high lingering Idle. I took it home figure replacing a base gasket. When I tore it down I found this. The coating saved the cylinders. There whas just a tiny flake of aluminm on one cylinder. It was easly honed out.

Or if you use a jaw puller it will bend them.

I had the domes and piston tops coated with a thermal barrier and the skirts coated with a dry film lubercant.

I put bran new ones in with a little Yamabond 4.

Probably not one that is a 10mill due to the cost of trenching the cases for the longer stroker, and the price of the crank. A 4mill DM or DMX would be closer since only the top half of the case will need work. I have not looked in to build costs personaly. I am just repeating what was said in another thread. Trinitys web site shows the Cheetah engine kit for $2900 bucks. It doesnt say wich kit though. I would bet is is the 400cc and the other kits that require a stroker crank would probably cost more.

Its like a big big cc Cheetah with no power valves. Cheetah DM can go from a 472cc to 611cc's and the Cheetah DMX can go from 643cc's to 772cc's. The Cheeta PV, Cheetah DM, DMX, Serval, Cheetah Cub are all made / cast by the same company. CP Industries. Trinity just purchased the right to sell the PV Cheetah cylinders. So all cylinders have to be bought through them, wheather by you directly or the guy your going to buy it from. http://cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3

I am just saying from what was being discussed in the Trinity bash thread that was removed. I didnt mean power valves were completly out dated. Just when you compair the cost of builing a cheetah compaired to the cost of building a larger cc DM or DMX it costs about the same, and the larger motor will have just as good bottom end and better top end. AS for the major mfg's using power valves. It allows for the best power delivery when given a class limit on engine cc size, and allows for smaller lighter engines to have a better power curve. You cant build a 500+ cc 2 stroke dirtbike and enter it in a 250/450 cc class.

Cheaper. Hands down will be the Serval. If your on a strict budget then the Cheetah and DM or DMX is probalby out of the question.

I would still contact Passion racing. They are known for their short track TT engine builds. Maybe he knows somthing he can do to get the power were you need it to be.

Yea but they were talking by the time you get done paying trinity you could have the larger motor for the same ball park price. That is all I am saying you can get more for your money.

Yep and you can gain torque by increaseing the stroke. Running a DM or DMX you would have more top end than the cheetah power valve motor. By the time you pay for Trinity's prices (you have to get the cheetah from trinity because they own the rights to it) you could have been well on your way to a larger motor. I cant find the posts where they talk about it because for some reason that Trinity thread was deleated after they became a site sponcer. I am just saying what was said in that thread. If you considering the cheeta you might look at your other options.