jbooker82

Crowbar's here too. I use the Iridium tented lens in mine.

A pressure test and a litlte yamaha bond would have also saved you the rebuild expense. I ran the UPP intakes too but didnt like how you had to bend the clutch arm down, grind the LH carb bowl plug or weld the hole shut.

You dont have to have one. It just makes for more forgiveness when synicing the carb idle screws. Helps keep to keep your banshee from Idling on just one cylinder when the carbs are not synced properly.

Cub is a drag ported cylinder out of the box, so how they figure it is trail ported is beyond me.

Camber is what your refering to by useing a framing square. It is the tipping of the tire in or out at the top. Almost every a arm is adjustable for this. Castor is the leaning of the spindle back or forward. It is a pain to get adjusted correctly. You have to use an angle finder and a sraight edge to measure the angle from the top to bottom ball joint. Most caster adjuable a arms have hiem joints where the a arm mounts to the frame. You adjust it by screwing one joint in or out. This moves the ball joint / hiem joint forward or back. What caster does is allow your tires to lean when you turn. If it isnt set right it will be real easy to turn from mostly straight. The more you turn the handle bars the more effort it takes to turn them. It wont feel even or smooth. It will also cause instability at high speeds. This is why I recomend getting a set of a arms that do not use hiem jonts where they mount to the frame. That way you dont have to deal with setting caster.

Single stage reeds are like the stock ones. They are just once pice petals. Dual stage reeds have a set of petals on top of another set of petals. That way at lower rpms the top lighter tension set is the one doing the majoirty of the work. Then when you open it up the stiffer bottom set opens up. There are windows cut in the bottom set and the top set seals them up. Then you have v forces. They cram 2x as many single stage reeds. They operate on the basis 2x as many reeds opening half as far. So they have less travel time from closed to open to closed.

I cant conferm or deny but I have herd Chariot say they use Genuine Mikuni boots. I have had this same thing happen to mine and they are Mikuni boots. Any time you take the carbs off dont over tighten the clamps especially when the boots have had fuel or carb cleaner on them.

Brake Cleaner, Carb Clean or even gasoline will soften the rubber. Then when you cinch the camps down you cut them. Doesnt matter if it is the cheap chineese boots or the genuine Mikuni boots that chariot uses. I usually keep a set of mikuni boots on hand. You can get them from Dennis Kirk for about 13-15 bucks each.

It was more of a non serious joke. I don't know what affect it would actually have. Just figured adding a less flamable liquid would help keep detonation at bay. Kind of like adding toluine to regular gas. Ethire way race fuel is the way to go.

But the type of test the fuel goes through is different. It might be 100 octane but it isn't rated or tested the same way regular gasoline or race fuel is. You can buy 98 octane in foreign countries but it isn't high octane by our fuel standards. Av gas is designed to be burnt at a high altitude and in an engine that runs at a lower rpm. It is not a performance fuel for cars. You could probably mix a gallon of kerosene or diesel in with 4 gallons of gasoline and it would keep your motor from melting down. Doesn't mean it is right though.

I did notice my wallet was lighter.

I believe SST's are FMF's mid to top end pipe.

I would also check the clearance for the pickup coil. Some times the nodes are different hight so set it on the tallest one.

4mill with a mx / trail port job, Race fuel domes, +4 timing, PC pipes, 28mm pwk keihins, and the best suspension you can afford. Should make for a pretty helthy bottom end and midrange.

I like the one piece intake as well.

I would run a RAD bearing carrier.

I have herd a person or two bought a pair and didn't even receive them. So in this case you DON'T even get what you paid for.

Yea like a stud girdle.

My boss intake came with Mikuni boots. They leaked as well. I just use a little yamabond to seal them up. A one pice intake acts like a girdle tieing the two cylinders together.

Vforce because that is what the company specializes in. 2x as many reeds opening half as far make for more responsive reeds because they have less distance to travel.

Pods. It was a squeez when I was running PJ's with regular upp intakes. Adding the thickeness of a boss intake would make it impossible.

Good to know. Is he just doing work as a hobby for beer money then.

And you get that awesme head that forces you to be stuck running trinity domes, which I have herd isnt the best situation. Wonder why the dont use Trinity Racing as their screen name. There is plenty of other site sponcers I would rather deal with. I would take a motor built by Jeff at FAST or Andy at M&M.

A small hose that goes to the top of the radiator goes there. It keeps air from becoming traped in the back of the head since the motor doesnt sit straight.

I like my elka rear with the long travel linkage on my raptor. It really allows the rear tires to drop down.