jbooker82

It kind of depends on who you talk to. I run mine on a dune ported 4mill. I just do general riding a little drag racing between friends. Some guys say it makes a stock (non over ride) transmission shift hard. I havent had a problem. I like running a lockup clutch because I can keep the 6 soft OEM Yamaha springs. The lockup bolts to the inner hub / pressure plate. So when your at the starting line in gear it is not spinning. So when you launch sping pressure is what allows the clutch to engage. The stock 6 springs will allow the clutch to slip out of the hole untile the rear wheels (transmission) are spinging fast enough for the lockup clutch to fully engauge the clutch. I just bent my stock lever out a little bit. I also had to grind or round off the foot peg. It is a tight fit but it works.

No way to get tractor low end torque and 2 stroke drag ported hp out of the same motor. The top end you want to gain is going to come off the bottom end.

Yep they will open up the ports in the sleeves. It is a fine art and should be left to some one who knows what they are doing. Porting a 2 stroke is like putting a performance cam in a 4 stroke. It changes with the air and fuel come in and when the exhaust goes out.

Keep your Pro Circuit pipes, and have the cylinders ported. Porting gains you the most HP per dollar spent after you buy exhaust pipes.

Just get a set of Maier Raptor Style plastic and be done with it. You will deffinatly be different. PS. Make sure to get a Jaws bumper too.

ASV releases kit that contains both the brake and clutch levers around the holidays. You can get them from TQS. http://www.tqsatv.com/products.php?cat=Levers

I guess some times the right kind of power out weighs more of the wrong kind of power.

The holiday Pro Packs should be coming out. They have a ASV Pro F3 clutch lever and a ASV F3 brake lever all in one package. They are usually a pretty good price. Just make sure you get one with the quick adjust Pro clutch perch.

I thought the stock cylinders had the sleeves cast in the aluminum cylinder so you could not press the OEM sleeve out. It had to be bored out. Yes there is other ways to make more power for cheaper. I am just saying if your going to buy a new set of stock cylinders and send them back to the guy who did porting on your old cylinders. You could have the guy resleeve your bad cylinders with big bore sleeves. Thus gaining a little something vs. have exactly what you have alread had. 66-68mm big bore sleeve. There is still aluminum next to the sleeve so the size of the transfer port has not been reduced. Sleeve almost goes to the cylinder head bolt holes.

Yes you can and it shouldnt cost much more than a normal resleeve job. When they resleve a stock cylinder they just keep boring the cylinder out until all the sleeve is removed and the proper diameter has been achieved. They just have to go a little further for a big bore sleeve. You will have to find a piston to run. Most of the time you use blaster pistons. This will require you to run a long rod crank. Ethire stock stroke or 4mill. You will also need a cool head with a set of big bore blaster piston domes. In all honestly if your wanting a top end dune port you would be better of getting a Sevral cylinder. Now if your looking for a mid range or low end port job then resleeving your stock cylinders would be an option.

Yes you can resleeve stock ported cylinders. Weather it is worth it is kind of up to you. Are you 100% happy with the port work? I had a set of 4mill stock cylinders drag ported by Patriot Racing. I bought them dirt cheap because they had a crack sleeved. I sent them back to Patriot Racing to have them resleeved with big bore sleeves. The sleeves that were installed were 66mm to 68mm. They were not the huge 68-70 or 72mm sleeves. I had about $650 in the top end by the time is was was done. It wasnt any more than if I purchased a set of stock cylinders at $200 then paid for a port job. People say that big bore sleeves choak the transfers but mine did not. There was still aluminum against the sleeve in the transfer ports. So if your happy with your cylinders and would buy another set and have them ported by the same guy then it might be worth it.

What kind of riding do you do? It is fun to chase big HP numbers, but if the power is in the wrong place it wont do you any good. The Cub is a drag ported cylinder.

I was going to say wrong pipes or wrong porting. T6's with a drag port

That is like saying you want 4 stroke torque and Drag ported top end. Your not going to get an Ideal engine that will do the two extreem opposites. Your going to have to make a compromise so what is more important to you?

It has already been dyno proven that they do work.

I didnt realize that. Guess the build quality wasnt worth it for them to do it any more. By the time you spend fixing bad fitment pipe, leaks, and have to strip and rechrome a pipe due to bad build quality from the mfg it probably wasnt worth their time.

I coudlnt tell you the power difference but I would think a tripple exhaust port cylinder would be prefered. Especially if they are roughly the same price. A stock cylinder 4 mill might be perfered over a serval if you wanting a low to mid range, or midrange porting.

Yep. If your doing the powdercoating your self and have an old crappy oven you use. If it has a self oven clean feature you might try it. They usually get pretty hot and it might get it done.

Yep that is pretty much nothing new. I havent herd of any complaints lately. Suposedly they were better. Same thing for CPI, but havent herd any complaints in a while ethire. There are a lot of people selling these pipes who claim or throw the "Show Chrome" term around. Some may very well be others are not. So you have to go to a reputable seller in order to garuntee your really getting it. That is why I recomend Cascade Innovations. Yes you pay for it but it is truely very nice chrome. Here is my Cascade CPI's. They still look like this.

That is what I am saying. The problem isnt with the J arm it is the narrow mouting point on the frame. That is what causes the bushings to wear out faster, and it concentrates front impact forces in a smaller area.

Yea but look at where they mount to the frame. The j arm is narrower. This allows the j arm to have more leverage agaist the frame (say if you hit a tree with a front tire). The A arm is wider so the force is spred out over a wider distance. It doesnt really have anything do do with the regular impacts (Up and down from bumbps) it gets from riding. Try to visualize hiitng some thing sold with a front tire. It is like using a wider stance when weight lifting or playing football. You can damage ethire one if you do it right.

Drag cylinders with PWK 33's and T5's (or any other general purpose pipe) suck as well. Drag cylinders have no bottom and very little mid. Your fmf's are not going to improve bottom amd midrange of a drag cylinder. Then when you get to the top end where the drag ported cylinders excell your pipes are going to really choak it down. So you get none of the benifits of the parts your going to be running. When I first built my banshee I had a Patriot Racing drag ported 4 mill on race fuel with PWK33's and T5's. It wanst real fun to ride. When I swapped to CPI's it was a lot better. It atleast made the power it was supose to. The only problem was it didnt fit my riding style or area. I do like to trail ride and dune. The drag port had a weak mid range. It had a real narrow power window.

When I put 06 lights on my 97 wiring harness I just used 3 bullit conectors. I (on the main wiring harness) put female ones on the Pos for the high and low beam, and a male one on the NEG. That way if you take them off you dont have bare male conectors exposed and kit keeps you from hooking a pos up to a neg. The female ones have a nice silicone jacket. This guy has some nice kits. He has some triangle 3 wire plugs. They go together like the 4 wire trailer plugs though. http://vintageconnections.com/ I just use the CK-1 kit. I havent tried any of his other kits.

FAST is the cheapest place I know of for the Nology coil and hot wires. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=46

That is what I run. Nology coil with their Hot Wires. I would not buy any electrical componets from Ricky Stator, or RM Stator. They are low grade crap. All your doing is lowering the reliability of your banshee by running their stuff. I went through 3 ricky stators before I just said give me my money back. I ended up going back to a stock stator and bought a bran new OEM one as a spair.