jbooker82

Toy's R Us

I usually run NGK BR8EIX's ( or what ever the Iridium Plugs are). Same heat range as stock as well. I have also run NGK BPR8ES's they are the same heat range as stock but they have a Projected tip that hangs down a little in to the combution chamber. That way they are not recessed in to the head.

This is about as good as your going to get for around $50-60 bucks http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00947089000P?keyword=compression+tester&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1 The one you posted has an adaptor that threads on to the main hose. So the scrader valve is in the hose. So any volume you add (adaptor with open space) before the valve will be volume added to the combustion chamber. Now look at noss's table that shows what compression his different domes should have at a given elevation. It doesnt take very much volume to affect compression or your compression gauges reading.

I think I would have taken the chrome job money and bought suspension instead.

Dune Ported 4mill with CPI's, PWK 33's, and aftermarket suspension. It is what a banshee is all about. If you want or need bottom end then just sell it and get a 4 stroke.

Downshifitng is more important to me when riding off road. Think about it this way. Your screaming up a monster dune. Your leaning clear forward. You need to down shift. Wich is easier to do. Push the shifter down or try to pull it up?

He probably makes them him self out of old junk cranks. Then just paints them or has them hydro carbon fiber dipped.

What other pics? Are you talking about my photobucket album?

Well if you needed to get in there for a quick shift fork fix it might be handy.

You would benifit from having a constant running temp. Engine temp does slightly affect your jetting, so the more stable you can make the engine temp the better. Just make sure you keep an eye on the temps. I dont know how the banshee would or is going to react to having a t stat.

They are nice radio's I just dont need two of them. Here is the information on it. The link to the manual is also on there. http://spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM3140 The fast responce time of the 2.4 ghz, and running a high speed throttle servo makes it real easy to just blip the throttle to keep a wheelie going.

$165 Shipped to the Lower 48. Up for sale is a USED but excelent condition Spektrum DX3S Transmitter with NEW in package SR3300T telimitry 3 channel RX, NEW in package SR300 3channel RX, NEW in package RPM / Speed Sensor with mouting brackets, NEW in package electric motor temp probe, and a USED nitro engine temp probe / loop. I do not have the instruction manual, or the extra sized grips for the TX. It has the normal sized grips installed. The manual can be downloaded from Spektrum's web site. I bought this setup as a back up and never used the recievers, just the transmitter. The protective film is still on the LCD Screen. The bottom of the TX does have some small nicks from setting it down on rough surfaces. Here are the pics Scuffed up bottom.

Or you could just get a raptor 660 thermostat and splice it in the top hose close to the head. It would even have a place where you could install your current electric temp gauge probe. It wouldnt be a bypass thermostat but it would be cheap and easy.

I believe it allows you to split the case hafls with out removing the clutch, and clutch basket.

Dune Ported 4mill (or a 4mill Serval) with CPI pipes, Keihin PWK 33's will make for a fun ride. Dont get a wrapped up in HP numbers. I would consider the only way to hit 100 HP is with a drag port or cylinder that uses a drag port durations. The more hp you want the higher and narrower the power delivery is. You can't get more power for free, it is going to cost you bottom end and midragne.

If you can ride a cub in trails then your trails are not really trails they are power line roads, or fire roads.

I just bent mine out a little.

Purging flushes the methanol out of the carbs and engine. If you leave methanol in side the carbs and motor it will corode the aluminum and steel. The aluminum will start to form a white scale. Kind of like aluminum wheels that have a wheel weight. You have to have the carbs setup for methaol. It takes 2x as much methanol than gasoline. So your carbs have to be able to flow double the fuel. This also means your fuel milage is going to be cut in half. More than likely it will end up less than half because your normaly run methanol pretty rich.

Long rod for reliabilty.

No they would get everything, not just a frame. You build a banshee out of parts with a frame that is hot. When it gets impounded / repoed you loose the whole thing, not just the frame.

Most people run Wiseco because they are a good forged piston. You run the rings that come wtih the pistons.

Also do not use any lock tight. As it drys it expands and will crack the lexan around the bolts.

By the looks of your setup you wont be hurt any if you do end up with a cub. Maybe a little short on the swing arm.

Read it again slower. The +2mm stroke has nothing to do with what piston to run. If it is a long rod or stock length does deterimine what piston you have to run. If you read it says. 4mill Long rod crank, and a stock stroke long rod crank both require Wiseco 795 series pistons. What deterimes the series of pistons run is determined by the rod lenght, not the stroke. Hot Rods #4001 Stock stroke, stock rod lenght = 513 Series Pistons Hot Rods doesnt make a +4mill stock rod crank any more. There are others that still do. = 513 Series Pistons and one of the following (cut stock head, cool head with cut stroker domes, spacer plate under the cylinders, spacer plate between the cylinders and head). Hot Rods #4011 Stock stroke 5mm long rod crank = 795 Series Pistons Hot Rods #4105 +4mill Stroke 5mm long rod crank = 795 Series Pistons and one of the following ( cut stock head, cool head with stroker domes, spacer plate under the cylinders, spacer plate between the cylinders and head) So the determining factor on what series of pistons you need to order is the Rod Length, not the stroke.

The stroker has nothing to do with the pistons. Weather it is a long rod or not does. Both a 4mill long rod, or a stock stroke long rod crank require Wiseco 795 series pistons. The stroker requires a cut head, custome cut stroker domes in a cool head, or some kind of spacer (ethire under the cylinders or between the head and cylinders). So if you have a long rod 4 mill then you need both 795 series pistons, and a cut head, cool head with stroker domes, or a spacer plate. You best bet is to tear it down to see what you have. If your compression is low then the cylinders will need to be meaured to see if you need to bore it or if you can get by with running a new set of pistons the same size.