jbooker82

I bet with filters like that it is like having no filter at all.

You have a link to that. What filters did u run Just clamp on ones? Sorry for hi jacking. I am done josh

Well my carbs are not stock ethire. They are Keihin Pj34 mm carbs. I was just kind of wanting a measure ment of how long and diameter of the fitlers. Then i can do a search on KN's web page for the filter that will clamp on my my size of carbs. I just dont want to get a filter that is to long or one that is to big around and have it rub on the frame or exhaust. Do most people use one that has the straight base, or one that has an angled base. Thanks for the links I will do some more investigatin. josh

What size of filters is every body running. I was looking at some UNI Filters for my Keihin PJ34mm carbs. I am not sure if i want to use UNI foam filters or K&N. I was just kind of wondering about how long, what diameter of the actuall filter element (not the part that clamps on to the carbs) and what kind of base is everybody running. Most people just use a straight base or something like a 15 deg angled base? Some K&N part numbers would be great so i can see what all the measurments are.

WESW Knows his stuff. He Helped me get mine going The mods and jetting in my sig are what i am running. I will probably end up droping a main and pilot jet size. WESW when you run the keihin PJ's what manifolds did you run? I have V force 2's with just UPP carb boots. My clutch linkage arm hits on the LH Carb bowl drain bolt. Would those billit intake manifolds re adjust them so they dont hit. What about a Reed Spacer?

Here is my mods and jetting. 350 setup with mx porting V Force 2 Reeds with Keihin PJ34mm Carbs Pro Flow with K&N no air box lid Cool head with 19cc domes Timing set at +4 deg FMF SST Pipes with Turbine Core 2 Silencers Current Jetting at 2100 ft. Main Jets 155 Needle is CEK on the middle or 3rd clip Pilot Jet is 58 I will probably end up going down one more size My banshee would not pull worth a crap down low. It ran really rough in the bottome end. 1/8 to 1/4 or a little more throttle. I was at a 62 pilot with CEG needle. I droped to a 58 and it helped a bunch. The i switched needles to the CEK. The CEK as a larger diameter to cut down the amount of fuel at the 1/4 throttle range. That needle really helped out a lot. Here is a good web page that tells about all of the different needle changes and what each change does. The first letter is the taper. The middle letter is the length of the needle. The last letter is the diameter. Duncan Racing Kein Jetting LINK You can get different needles from Sudco. Sudco's Needle Page LINK

I dont know if the nology wires are resistor type. I think that the guy at nology said that they wernt resistor type. The tech said that the factory wires on the earlier banshees had a 500 ohm resistor built in. I am not for sure if the newer banshees that say to use the resistor plugs have a resistor in the wires or not. Like if they left the resistor out and then just required you to run a resisor plug. I havent had any problems running the non resistor plugs with the nology coil. I do keep a couple of resistor plugs on hand incase there is a problem though. josh ps sorry if this post doesnt make sence. I have had a few to drink.

I have the nology coil and hot wires.

Well my banshee is a 1997 and the manual says to run b8es. I am also running a nology coil and wire. The techs at nology said to run a non resistor spark plug. They claimed that there will be more spark energy if you run a non resistor spark plug. I know the newer banshees say to run br8es plugs. I have herd of people having problems with B8ES plugs causing a miss at higher rpm. I think that it has some thing to do with interfearance with the CDI because of the plugs being non resistor. You know that ticking noise you probably have herd over your car radio caused by a bad or loose spark plug wire.

Yea i think they are too. I started out at a 62 pilot (previous owner installed). It ran like crap, I cant believe that he settled for it. I wanted to keep the pilot on the rich side because i went from the CEG needle to the CEK wich cuts the fuel down on the bottom end. It still has a little spot where it is rich sounding on the bottom end. Like it is running under water. I jetted my raptor. I started with a stock machine and did all the jetting for the mods (currently a 720cc stroker). With this banshee I kind of jumped in head first. It had all of the mods in my sig already done. I also have never jetted a 2 stroke before. I just dont want to burn it down. Thanks for all your advice. It is much appreciated. josh

I have black lables on mine. They bend real easy. Some times I just nick a tree trail riding. I can hardly even feel it. Get back from riding and the rim flange is bent out a little. Most of the time i dont even know when it happend. These things seem to be made out of butter. I would hate to see what the blue lables are like. The previous owner put these wheels on. Glad he saved a couple of bucks and went the cheap way :shoothead: instead of getting the red lables. I dont know if i would even buy douglas wheels after owning these.

I did a WOT plug chop(test the Main Jet) like the tech article said. Just go throught the gears. It didnt run at WOT for a very long time. Here is the Pictures. The one with the white ring are the RH side. LH is a yellow ring. My banshee main jet wot is great when it is around 70 degrees temp morning and evening. But when it gets hot out say around 85-95 deg in the heat of the afternoon it runs a little rough. Does your guys banshees WOT performance taper off a slight amount in the afternoon heat? You think it would be alright to step down one main jet size and still have it run ok with out leaning out at the cooler mourning and evening temps? I would be running a 152 main jet with every thing else staying the same. Right now i am at these specs with Keihin PJ34mm Carbs at 2000-2500 Ft elevation Main Jet = 155 Pilot Jet = 58 Needle = CEK on the middle 3rd clip Banshee Mods. FMF SST pipes with Turbine Core 2 Silencers V Force 2 Reeds, K&N Proflow with no air box lid Timing set to +4 deg. Cool head with 19cc Domes Suposedly an MX port job from Victory Motorsports in Moundridge Kansas. Thanks for your time. Your help is much appreciated. josh

What needle do you have in the carbs. I believe that they come with CEG's I did like what wes said and got the cek's. That really helped responce down low. Same lenght and taper as the CEG's just a little bigger diameter to lean it out a little on the bottom end.

Even the ones that are made by weisco. I though about trying there Super Sock Forged pistons. Vitos says that the are made by weisco. It looks like the top of the piston on the exhaust side is cut out to advance the exhaust timing.

Dennis kirk sells packages of jets 5 for 20 bucks. They have a bunch of different ranges. I dont know if it is under Keihin or DG. The bags had DG stickers in them but they are genuine Keihin jets.

I would just use prestone's radiator flush solution.

My banshee had the stator timing plate come loose. It spun it all the way counter clock wise and redarded the timing to -10 deg. It ran like crap as well. You might check that. josh

I thought that the one right by/off the radiator cap. The smallest of any goes to the bottom of the coolant res. The next smallest one goes to the little nipple off of the middle of the cylinder head.

You can get Klotz Benol, Super Techniplate, and R-50 by the gallon from Rocky Mountain Atv. Klotz Benol Link Klotz Super Techniplate Link Klotz R-50 Link

There isnt that much tickness added. It is sprayed on with an air brush. One ultra fine coat. Like a film of oil. Most calipers probably are not accurate enough to measure the thickness of the coating. I put it on there because it is an oil retaining coating. Helps hold the oil to the piston skirts. Here is what tech line has to say about the clearances. Techline coatings FAQ Webpage WHAT ABOUT CLEARANCES? The dry film lubricants will burnish as they run until they are no longer visible. They are applied at thicknesses ranging from .0005" to .0015". However, before assembly the coating may be burnished back to less than .0002" with gentle buffing using "Scotch-bright" or similar material.NO CHANGES need to be made in clearances due to the use of these coatings, though in many instances because of the reduced part temperature and increased lubrication tighter clearances may be run.

I knew some body would say some thing. Pretty sweet arnt they.

You can put that grey coating on a set of wisco pistons your self. I did these while I had them out of my banshee. The top is also a heat reflective coating.

Here is some pictures of the coatings that I applied to my domes and pistons. I did the Domes and heads of the pistons with a heat reflective coating. The skirs are done with a dry film lubercant. You have to bake this stuff on for an hour at 300 deg. I did this to my 720cc raptor piston and it seems to be holding up. I have not had it appart to see what it looks like, but so far so good. I figure that the banshee will really let me know, since you have to do top ends on 2 strokes a little more than 4 strokes. Let me know what you think josh

I put a bunch of teflon tape around that shaft. Slide the new oring around it and then grease it up real good. Put engough teflon tape around t so it takes up all of the slop. josh

Well i went a head and done my banshee pistons and domes since they were out. I will get some pics. I originaly bought this stuff for my 720cc Raptor Stroker. That way the piston and combustion chamber would not form hot spots and I could get away with running a little lower octane fuel. I just figured that it wouldnt hurt to try it on the banshee. I am not really looking for a perfromance increase, maybe just a little bit longer between top ends.