jbooker82

What kind of compression gauge are you using. If it is a cheap on that has the long threaded adaptor that screws on to the hose take a look at this. This is what I have found. Compression Tester Thread LINK

What needle are you running it them. I think that they come with a CEG.

I just prefer to run a oil that is a heaver weight and has a high flash temperature. These oils are pre mix only. You might notice a little more oil coming out the exhaust pipe. That is becuase it isnt burning and turning to smoke. Right now i have 2 quarts of Maxama 927 and 2 quarts of Super Techniplate. I run the Super Techniplate all of the time but i bought a 2 quart bottle of the 927, just going to try it.

Those look like PWK 28mm carbs. Keihins web page doesnt show a 30mm PWK. The 28mm PWK's looks like they have the carb cap held on by screws while the other carbs have the screw on carb caps or tops. Keihin PWK LINK Other size PWK's I have the older desinged PJ34 mm carbs on my banshee. They work great. I am happy with them. The jets are numbered differently though. I am at a 155 Keihin Main jet with 58 Keihin Pilot jet. It isnt that hard to figure out though. Just thought i would point that out so you knew.

Premix oil is a Ford vs Chevy war. It is all about preferance. Get a quart of each. Try both of them and run the one you like.

I run Klotz Super Techniplate at 32:1. Maxima 927 is a good oil as well. With the machine you have I would run at 32:1. Cheap insurance for an expensive engine.

Last time i bought mine from rockymountain. Klotz Super Techniplate is a pure synthetic oil blended with 20% of there Benol Racing Caster Oil. Klotz R50 is a full synthetic that burns really clean. Benol has really good film strength but it is a caster oil and it does not burn as clean as the others. Super Techniplate is supose to be the best of both worlds of synthetic and caster oil. Super Techniplate at Rocky Mountain LINK Maxima 927 is a good oil too. Is is a blend of synthetic oil and caster oil as well. Maxima 927 Link

AmsOil LINK Look at the specs at the bottom of the page. Compare them to Klotz Super Techniplate. Klotz Supertechniplate Data LINK Amsoil Flash point. 198 deg Super Techniplate Flash point. 460 deg Flash point it the temperature where it starts to burn but when the ignition source is removed it will not continue to burn. Fire point is were it starts to burn and will keep burning on it own when the ignition source is removed. Usually the Fire Point is a few degrees higher than the Flash Point I bet your banshee's cylinders run hotter than 200 deg. Amsoil Viscosity. cSt @ 40 deg 40.9 Super Techniplate cSt @ 40 deg 200 At 100 deg super techniplate is like 50 weight oil. Wich one do you think gives a better protective film of oil. I would bet on the thicker one. Klotz Benol has even higher specs. Klotz Benol Data LINK RPM Limit = Unlimited Here is Klotz R50 for the heck of it. Klotz R50 Data LINK I am not knocking Amsoil just pointing out some facts. Klotz's other oils like Motorcycle Techniplate TC-W2 and TC-W3 have specs comparable to your Amsoil Dominator. Just when using oil that can be used for automatic oil injection it is going to be a thiner oil so it can work with the injection pump. I figure that I might as well use a good thicker oil since you dont have to worry about oil injection.

My bro runs there synthetic 5w40 in his raptor. Has not had one problem with clutch slippage. I read that lots of other people run this oil with no probems ethire. I run Bel Ray Gear Saver in my Banshee transmission

Passion Racing can do a 12 port job on your stock cylinders. $500 If you want the Full Drag 12 port job then it is $625 Passion Racing's web page LINK

Wouldnt it be nice if every one could set there own wages. Good ol corperate america

Did it run fine before? or has it always done this since you modded it. The crank seals could be bad and it is pulling air in from the left side crank seal. If the right side goes out usually the RH exhaust will smoke more since it is burning trans fluid. You might also check carb boots for cracks.

Manual says 1.5 L witch is a little more than 1.5 quarts. I believe that the clutch cover also says 1500 CM3 wich is the same thing as 1.5L.

Mind did that when it was over full. The trans level would show low right after stoppin to check it. If I let is sit the the trans level would show over full. Is it just seeping out or is it puking it out?

Yea but with that adaptor it is like adding 3.5cc to the size of the head. If the hose was longer (volume added after the little schrader valve) then it would just take more kicks. Since it is before then it adds to the head size. 19cc+3.5cc=22.5cc's I emaild noss machine and he told me that the stock banshee head was about 22 to 23cc's. If you dont think that 1cc matters the difference between 18cc's and the stock 22cc's is only 4 cc's, but the pressure ranges form 197 to 130 at sea level. You cant say that 1 cc doesnt matter. I tested my banshee last night with a good snap on gauge and I got 154 on the left and 156 on the right.

You could have just bought the Boss Billit aluminum intake with built in crossover tube, complete with carb boots for 110 bucks on ebay. That would have taken care of the problem too. Boss Banshee Intake LINK josh

I Like both my banshee and 03 LE Raptor. I have done quite a bit of engine work to it. 4mm stroker crank, 2mm over bore piston, Stage 3 Hot Cam, Kenz ported head, Kibble White valves and valve springs. It is a fun machine to ride. Deffinatly a sleeper with a stock swing arm.

That is pretty funny since the vehicle that your putting the sticker on is 4 stroke.

The Craftsman compression tester wouldnt be that bad. It also has individual hoses for the different type of spark plug threads. Craftsman Compression Tester LINK

I have a gauge like this one. The valve is in the main hose while the thread on adaptor is just hollow. I CC the adaptor and it is 3.5cc. That means that the actual size of the combustion chamber or dome size is +3.5CC's. I have 19cc domes at 2000 FT elevation with fresh top end and the compression test with this gauge shows 115 to 120 PSI. Acording to NOSS's Compression Table LINK with 19cc domes i should be in the 160 psi range. There page shows with stock size domes at 2000ft is 118 psi. The +3.5CC that my compression gauge creates explains why my 19cc domes read 115 to 120 psi. Not a real accurate gauge at all. I am looking for a better one. The snap on one has the valve right in the end of the hose so no volume is added to the combustion chamber. PS. If you think Craftsman is better than Snap On. Why is the standard Craftsman 3/8 ratchet have a shorter handle than the standard 3/8 Snap on ratchet. Maybe because shorter handle = less chance of warrenty work. Plus Snap on ratches have finner teeth in the ratchet so it works better in tighter places.

Mine did that too. Check your Trans oil level. My crank seal was bad and it was burning oil. That kind of explains the smoking more on the right hand trans side.

I have FMF SST pipes with Turbine Core 2 Silencers. I am happy with them. One of my riding places is in The Halsey National Forest here in Nebraska. You have to have a certified spark arestor to run there. FMF and Pro Circuit are about the only ones that make an actuall spark arested silencer. I didnt want to mess around with those goofy clamp on kits.

It is just a little louder than the stock set up. If it is excessive then you probably have the Auto Decomp 180 degs off. Mine was installed wrong and it ran like it was stock or worse.

Aslo what kind of gauge are you using. I have one of those cheap wal mart gauges. It has an adaptor for the 14 mm long thread. The little valve is still in the main hose. I put the long adaptor on and cc'd the hose and adaptor. The adaptor adds about 3.5cc's to the toatal compression chamber.

It could be because the rings are not seated yet if it hasnt ever ran. I would get the carbs and pipes on it and do the compression test with a hot engine. I dont know what the spec is for a cold compression.