jbooker82

I did my DMC Alien on my raptor with Duplicolors 1200 deg silver paint. It is made for headers. It held up fairly well. When i went with the sparks exhaust I sent it to jet hot to be done. the jet hot coating has way more shine. Almost like chrome except it keeps the heat in the pipe instead of radiating out. Jet hot coats the inside and out side. It costs 145 to do my raptor's exhaust system. If your looking to do it your self. I would try these guy's stuff out. They sell some exhaust header coatings. I use there CBC1, and DFL on my banshee pistons and domes. Tech Line Coatings LINK

Turning the Air Screw out (counter clock wise) gives it more air. If your air scew is more than 3 turns out then you need a smaller pilot jet. My air screw is around 1 turn out with 55 or 52 pilot jet. My banshee idled and ran great with the mods and jetting in my sig. The pilot did seem rich. I put on some KN PODS and am re doing my jetting. WESW recomended to me to try different carb needles. He said that he has never been able to get a banshee to run good with CEG needles that the carbs come with. He recomended a CEK for my set up. Same taper and length as the CEG only it has a bigger straight diameter to cut the fuel down in the 1/4 throttle range. I just ordered some DEK's tonight to try with my pods. The DEK's giver a richer mixture as you transition from 3/4 throttle to wot (where the main jet controls). If your going to get some needles i got mine from Sudco Web Page LINK. I would order a set of CEK and DEK needles.

Those look nice man. I dont think i would have the paticance to do that my self.

I was thinking about trying a couple of different needles. Right now i only have the CEG and CEK. I will order a DEK set Do you have any other needle suggestions besides the dek that i might try. Thanks again everybody for the help. josh

I run sand stars on my raptor and banshee. My bro aslo has sand stars on the rear of his black and red raptor. They are supose to be one of the best V paddle desings. The rears have a little scoop in betweent the full paddles. There front tires have dual ribs down the middle to help turn better. ITP Sand Star LINK

I used VHT Engine Enamel on my raptor. VHT Engine Enamel LINK Make sure you get them real clean. I wiped all my parts down with aceton. After the paint dried I put them in the oven at 215 for an hour. I wasnt for sure if the side covers would get hot enough to cure the paint so i just baked every thing. I would like to make my 97 banshee look like a 2006 LE to match my raptor.

The built in cross over is kind of why i went that route. Sand kept working its way between the boost bottle and rubber carb boots. I even put screw on type clamps on instead of the factory squeez type. I havent pulled the plugs out yet. I was trying to get the top end - main jet - dailed in to do a plug chop. Then I was going to try to figure out the needles and clip postions. When i first started out doing my jetting you would give it gas and it would act like you just turned it off. You would just hear the sound coming from the carbs. Wich would be lean right. It got better as I went up on main jet sizes. I have a 160 in right now because that is all the bigger I have. I got 162,165,168 coming in the mail.

Well the thing is that I already bought them and installed them. I am just getting frustrated with the jetting for them. I was running the air box with proflow no lid pj34mm carbs with just the UPP 34mm carb boots.(mods and jetting in my sig) It ran great. I went to one of those thick Boss Racing Intakes so my carbs wouldnt hit on the clutch arm. When I had just the UPP boots getting that air box in there was a royal pain. It has to be impossible to get in there with a Boss Racing billit intake. So far I have went up 2 main sizes(160 currently) and it still doesnt run quite right, not as good as when i had the air box. I have also tired every clip position from 3rd (middle) to 5th(bottom). The best i got it to run today was with 160 main and CEK needle on the 5th clip position. I orderd some more jets 162,165,168. I will keep going up. I was just wondering about other guys that have went from K&N with no lid to pods, and how much more did they have to jet up. josh

How many turns out is the Idle knob? I think it needs to be some where in the nighbor hood of 5.5 turns out or 30 clicks. I remember reeding it some where on here but, I cant remember where. What kind of air box set up do you have?

What about ST Anthony's in Idaho. Suposedly they are the tallest in the USA. You might not need to buy sand tires for one trip. Little Sahara in OK has a shop that rents them out. Maybe ST A's has a place that does the same thing. ST Anthonys DUNE GUIDE LINK Dead Horse Bowl Devil's Dune Choak Cherry

I have the mods and jetting in my sig and it runs awesome. I put on these clamp on filters and it falls on its face bad with current jetting in my sig. I have tried 158 and 160 main jets. CEK needles clip position 3rd, 4th and 5th CEG needles clip position 3rd, and 4th The best i got it to run was with the 160 main jet and needle on the 5th clip position. It still had a bog in the mid to upper mid range. I look at what some people run with Keihin PJ carbs and i am way rich compaired to that. 421 stroker and they are in the 150-155 main jet size. Do i need to go with a bigger main jet still? Try a different Needle? Thanks for your help it is much appreciated. josh

Is it worth going from a Proflow kit with K&N filter no air box lid to running K&N filters that clamp right on to the carbs. For those guys that have done this how did your jetting change? Just a clip position, UP how many main jet sizes, Different carb needles? I have the mods and jetting in my sig and it runs awesome. I put on these clamp on filters and it falls on its face bad with current jetting in my sig. I have tried 158 and 160 main jets. CEK needles clip position 3rd, 4th and 5th CEG needles clip position 3rd, and 4th The best i got it to run was with the 160 main jet and needle on the 5th clip position. It still had a bog in the mid to upper mid range. I look at what some people run with Keihin PJ carbs and i am way rich compaired to that. 421 stroker and they are in the 150-155 main jet size. Do i need to go with a bigger main jet still? Try a different Needle? Thanks for your help it is much appreciated. josh

What kind of oil are you running. Do both pipes smoke the same? Wich side smokes more if not?

It is just a temp gauge for an car. Bend the mounting bracket out striaght and sandwitch it between the top and bottom bar clamp. The top part is a trail tech bar clamp. Trail Tech Dash Board LINK

Looks like autometer has come out with a new adaptor. There Hose adaptor is something new i believe. I cant find anybody selling it on the net though. Auto Meter acc LINK

I just got a Boss Racing Billit Intake to use with my Keihin Pj34mm Carbs. I also got a set of K&N Clamp on POD filters. K&N Part # CR-3680. The problem is that the LH filter is resting on the exhaust pipe. The Pipes I am running are FMF SST's with Turbine Core 2 silencers. I got a set of those cascade heat shield sleeves on right now. Is it ok to let the filter rest on the pipes with these heat shields or should I be looking for new filters. The filter is an oval tapered shape with a straight base. The RH filter is close to the heat shield but it isnt resting on it. I dont know if a round filter with an angled base would help or not. Curent filter dimentions. Base 4.5" X 3.75" Hight 6" Top 3" X 2" The base is straight not angled Thanks for your help. josh

The hole in the bar clamp just matches up with the gauge. What kind of manifold did you use to mount the tem sender in. Mine is this huge brass thing. Thinking about re doing it. josh

Well the top part that you see is just the trail tech bar clamp made for there lights. Then you take the little metal mounting loop that most gauges come with and straighten the L part of it out. Then just clamp it between the bar clamps.

I just have an automotive temp gauge in mine. It aslo lights up when i turn the head lights on. The temp sender is installed in a maniflold in the lower radiator hose. If i am moving fast it runs in the 130 to 150 range. If I am slow trail riding it is around 180. I know the lower hose isnt the most accurate place. The ideal spot would be in the hose coming from the cylinder head to the radiator.

I got a relocation bracket. It also has a holder on it to keep 2 spare spark plugs. The bracket keeps the bottle in the stock location. Rocky mountain sells this bracket. I would keep the bottle because if you notice that there is no colored liquid in it then you need to add some coolant. Other wise you will be taking off the radiator cover to check the coolant level every time. It keeps your radiator as full as possible, and also works like a sight glass.

Why did they suck. Mine do great. These carbs have been around for a while. I are you sure it was the carbs and not the tuner. :yelrotflmao:

A complete hot rods +4mm stroker crank.(I think you might need special pistons for the stroker crank as well) The plate that goes betweent the cylinders and cases, or cut domes for the stoker. Porting to take advantage of the different port timing that the stroker creates.

Bought a couple of heat shields form dajogejr. Emailed me after they were delivered to make sure I was happy. Will deffinatly buy from him a gain if the oppertunity comes around josh jbooker82

I got them on my banshee. It is bored .040 over with mx port job. With all the mods in my sig. They run great. Do your self a favor though. Dont get the UPP carb boots for 34mm carbs. I got a boss racing intake. It is a solid billit intake that bolts to both cylinders. It has a crossover tube machined in so there is no way sand can work its way in. I got mine on ebay. I just did a seach for banshee intake. passion racing also sells them. I got mine from this guy. He only has one listed for 28mm carbs right now. He had the best price. 110 plus 12 bucks shipping. I am sure he would hook you up if you emailed him. in2glamis's Ebay Store LINK

Did the carbs come with a CKG Needle. On keihins web page they are supose to come with a CEG. They dont even show a CKG for the PJ34mm Carbs. Your bog isnt from having to big of carbs it is from to much fuel at 1/4 throttle. You need a needle with a larger straight diameter. You need to change the last letter. A is most rich and Q or R is the leanest . C= Taper E= Needle Length G= Needle straight diameter. Look at my mods in my sig. Nothing more that affects jetting other than the reeds and kn filter. My mx port job looks to be a clean up job. Looks like no port timing was changed. My banshee had CEG's in there from the previous owner. The pilots were 62 and the CEG needle made it run like crap. It was a pain to go up any hill you really had to work it. It would finally hit the power band and it would be time to shift and start all over. I got down to a 58 pilot still need to probably go down one more. I put some CEK's in; same taper and length but a larger straight diameter. The Larger Straight diameter cuts down on fuel in the 1/8 to 1/4 throttle range. It really pulls now. Studdy this page before you give up on the Keihin's Duncan Racing PJ34mm Carb Jetting LINK It explians how to tweek every part of the keihin carbs. I got my needles from here. Sudco Keihin Needle Jet LINK They dont even show a CKG needle for the PJ34mm Carbs. WESW helped me out a lot on figuring these carbs out. He has lots of experiance running these carbs. He told me he couldnt ever get a 350 banshee to run worth a darn on the CEG needles that they come with from Keihin. He recomended the CEK. Put them in and man, it was a 100% different machine. Maybe he will chime in too. I dont really worry about the CEK's being to lean on the bottom end, there are people running CEL's wich are leaner yet. josh