jbooker82

Here is what mine look like after a 1/4 mile blast down a gravel road. I dont know if they are perficet but it doesnt look lean.

This is a 1/4 mile blast down a gravel road.

The next mod I would do is a cool head or noss head. Up the compression. How much is up to you, weather or not you want to run race fuel, or just premium.

That is some wicked tread on those mosters.

For the coil i just got some aluminum angle iron. Just make a backet out of it. I used the old coil for the bolt pattern for mounting on the frame. Then I just bolted the new coil to the other side of the angle iron. Sorry my GF has my digital camera so i cant get you any pics.

I put mine on one of the head studs. Just make the hole a little bigger and then put another nut on top.

It is the left over premix oil. Where do you think all of that oil goes that you keep dumping in to your gas? It doesnt stay in the engine. If it doesnt get burned off it goes out he tail pipe.

I would just top it off with fresh fuel next time you go riding. Mixed gas has the same shelf life as regular gas. The oil doesnt settle out of it. If it makes you feel better stand up on the foot pegs and rock the machine side to side. I have had premix setting in a gas can for a month and a half before and it ran fine on it. The only thing i would be worie about is if it is smoking on one side more than the other. RH side having excess smoke hents twards a back crank seal letting trans oil in to the engine and being burnt in the RH cylinder. No smoke on one side compaired to the other. Lean = air leak.

I would run a Klotz oil over Amsoil. Amsoil's 2 stroke oils have lower flash points and are thiner / lighter weight oils. Klotz R50 Flash point = 400 deg F. Viscosity of 18 cSt at 100 deg C. or 950 SUS at 100 deg F. (Approx. 50 Weight Oil) Klotz R50 Techniplate Tech Sheet LINK Klotz Supertechniplate Flash point = 460 deg F. Viscosity of 200 cSt at 40 deg C. or 950 SUS at 100 deg F. (Approx. 50 Weight Oil) Klotz Supertechniplate Tech Sheet LINK Klotz Benol Flash Point = 520 deg F. Viscosity = 220 cSt at 40 deg C. or 950 - 1100 Sus at 100 deg F. (Approx 50 Weight Oil) Klotz Benol Tech Sheet LINK Amsoil Saber (100:1 recomended by them not me) Flash Point = 237 deg F Viscosity = 99 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.5 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Saber LINK Amsoil Domintator Flash Point = 198 deg F Viscosity = 40.9 cSt at 40 deg C. or 7.6 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Domintator LINK Amsoil Interceptor Flash Point = 183 deg F. Viscosity = 40.9 cSt at 40 deg C. or 8.0 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Interceptor LINK Well might as will add Maxima Oil to the list. Maxima Castor 927 Flash Point = 420 deg F. Viscosity = 133.1 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.79 cSt at 100 deg C. Viscosity = 617 SUS at 100 deg F. Maxima 927 Castor LINK Maxima Formula K2 Flash Point = 240 deg F. Viscosity = 97.0 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.58 cSt at 100 deg C. Viscosity = 450 SUS at 100 deg F. Maxima Formula K2 LINK I am not a rocket scientist but to me thicker oil that burns at a higher temp = better protection. I run Klotz Supertechniplate synthetic oil bleneded 20% with there benol racing castor oil. It smokes some but not as much as yamaha lube. If you want no smoke or very little try the Klotz R50. It is 100% synthetic. I think next time I am going to try Klotz Benol. It offers the most protection but it is a castor oil and it burns a little dirtier than the others.

Shouldnt the plugs have a defined line like these? Or am i just lean?

If your going to put something on the pipe to keep people from buring them selves you should look at DEI Exhaust wrap. It comes in various length roles. It would work the best for heat protection.

If jets are hard to find then I would order 145-165 or 170. You needles sound right. Get both the CEK and DEK. That way you have something to play around with. What kind of intake are you going to run. If your going to run the UPP Racing rubber intake boots for the 34mm carbs then the LH carb will rub on the clutch arm. I have herd that you can fix this several ways. Reed spacers, have the carb bowl welded up(Why would you want to do that), or a Boss Racing Intake. I went with the boss racing intake. It is one piece for both carbs, and it has a crossover machined in to it. It is a really trick intake. I got mine off of ebay from these guys. It says that they ship only to USA but they have a phone number in there auction listing. Give them a call and see what they can do for you. Boss Racing 34mm carb intake LINK

If probably could have turned it in to pay pal if you wanted to. I dont know if you still can since you had them a while. Somthing being listed as PWK should be a Keihin part. That is false advertisement.

Some how cut a slot in it.( Dremel Cut of wheel) Then use a straight blade screw dirver to turn it out.

Who recomended the CGL needle? What mains do you have. I have the mods in my sig with the jetting in my sig. josh

I have keihin pj34mm carbs and they dont have the power jet. I think yours are retro fitted ones. My banshee runs on gas and i have 155 main jets. I thought that you need way more fuel when running alachol compaird to gasoline.

Curtis Sparks makes an excelent exhaust. I have there 6x exhaust on my raptor. They have several different kinds. I opted for the super trapp spark arrestor. You can just un bolt it when you dont want the spark arrestor. You can get the exhaust with out a spark arrestor and tun down tip. Or you can get one with the screen type spark arrestor and turn down tip. They aslo offer a Big Race Core too for the raptor. I am not sure if they offer that one for the yfz or not. There is a lot of people racing yfz with the Sparks exhaust system. I got the sainless steel version and had my silencer powder coated black. I also sent the header to jet hot to be cermaic coated. You can buy a regular steel header and have it come cermaic coated as well. Just call the guys and ask about what they all offer. It is a lot more than there web page shows. Sparks Racing Home Page LINK

You could have jet hot coat them. They did a real nice job on my raptor header. I got the sterling color but they do offer other colors. They coat the inside to. There coatings are thermal barrier type so the heat doesnt radiate out of the pipe. It also keeps the finish looking better because it doesnt get as hot. Copper head would be sweet if it was on the right color shee. Jet Hot Colors LINK

I was just being stupid about the clamp on screen. I might have to look in to the spark arrestors that replace the end cap. I dont know if going from SST's to toomys would be worth the cost though.

If you smack your header or pipe with a ball peen hamer. It will just dent. The coating flexes with the metal. Normally paint would crack and fall off. Leaving a bare metal spot.

I would run toomeys to if they had a desent spark arrestor. I am not really a fan of the clamp on spark arrestors. Hell I can get a pice of steel screen and clamp it on with a hose clamp.

Jet hot's coating your can smack it and dint the metal and it wont flake, peal, or crack. It flexes with the metal.

Would filters that have an angled base make the filters fit ok.

I dont see why fmf doesnt make them out of stainless steel. I would think that would solve the problem.

What do you want for the cylindars?