jbooker82

That is kind of wierd. Most people that run Keihin carbs both the pj34mm and the 35mm PWk's use a needle with the E in the middle. I am running keihin pjs with mods in my sig. I use the CEK. I am pretty sure that your main is to big. I am in the process of jetting mine for the POD K&N's instead of the K&N proflow with no air box lid. I am at 160 with the CEK needle in the center clip position. I will probably even step down to a 158. Right now my pilot is a 62. It is way rich but for now i am working on the mains. Try doing a plug chop to see what you get. Post the pics on here. Here is mine with the setup in my signature. Just warm it up on the old plugs. Put new ones in and then do blast down a back road at wot for a min or so. Kill the engine and pull the clutch in so you dont mess up the readings. Cut the threads off. You will now be able to see how your engine was running at WOT.

Here is a link explining the 2 stroke plug chop. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Here is what my plugs look like. I just cut the whole threads off. That way you can really see good. It is just a blast at WOT for about 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road in 6th gear. Just make sure to warm it up on the old plugs.

You have to do a DC conversion. If your going to try this use a trail tech voltage regulator/rectifier. Here is a link explaining how to. Big Red has tried it and couldnt get the DC conversion to work right. Kept on buring up stators. You might pm him to see what he tried it with. Maybe the newer stators and trail tech voltage regulator. Banshee DC Conversion LINK

What needles are in the carbs?

Lets see some pics. Mine fit fine. Wonder if you got a bad set?

I would be looking for a air leak. What do you mean by fresh motor? Did you just do a top end or did you split the cases? If you just did a top end your gaskets should all have been replaced. I would start looking at the crank seals. If your getting no smoke on the LH side then there is probably an air leak. Usually if your RH crank seal is leaking you will have smoke on the LH side and way excessive smoke on the right hand side (burning trans oil). You could take the plastic cover off of the flywheel side and then start it up. Get some starting fluid and spray it behind the flywheel why it is running. Listen for an rpm change. You could also spray it around carb boots and base gaskets to check them as well.

Try setting your AF screws .5 to .75 tuns out. That is how mine seem to run best. Your mods and jetting sound about right to me.

It sounds like a float problem. Put a hose on the little nipple on the bottom of the carb bowl. Hold the clear hose up by the split where the carb bowl and carb body meet. Opean the little drain screw on the bottom of the carb bowl, letting fuel into the hose. Look to see where the fuel rises to. You want it about 2 mm above the the line where the carb bowl and carb body meet.

If your at 60 over I think you can bore it one or two more times. I am not sure how many to be certian. When your on your last bore job you can have the cylinders resleeved. They press out the steel sleeve and install a new one. Starting over with the stock size bore. There are some sleves that can be installed in a stock cylinder that alow you to run a 68mm bore piston. These are usually refered to "Big Bore Kits".

Clamp on Pod filters make jetting much easier. All I take of is the seat. I have Keihin carbs with an intake that has the cross over tube machined in between the carbs. Remove Seat Take the filters off. Take the carbs out of the intake boots Remove the acces plug from the bottom of the carb bowls. It is really nice to be able to change main jets with out removing the carb bowls. Then work your way back up the list.

I just use the stuff that they give you with it. It washes out of the power ball nice and clean. I dont know if any of the paste type polishs would clean out that well.

There is two hoses. The one that hooks to the bottom of the over flow go up to the radiator cap nipple. The top hose on the over flow tank is a vent hose that is routed up to the front of the frame. Mine hangs down a little around the the radiator. Your over flow tank is probably a little over full. Or a little bounces around the tank, trapping a little in the hose, and when the radiator lets off a little pressure it blows a little out of the vent tube. It is no biggie. There should be a back hose just haning some where in up front. Look and see if that is were it is coming out of. josh

My raptor is in the lower 60's for $1600. It has all stock suspension so it is kind of a sleeper. In a flat out drag race it beats my banshee. It isnt a blow out but it consistantly beats it in a drag race. Neither machine is a drag machine. They are machines that get dove on trails, back roads, and once or twice a year dunes. Just fun to ride period. Raptor Hot Rods 720cc Kit. 10.5:1 Compression Ratio $500 on ebay. Kenz Cycle Tech Porting $450. Hot Cams Stroker Cam $100 Curtis Sparks 6X exhaust $475 L&A Air Box Eliminator. $75 Banshee 350cc setup MX Ported Cylinders Cool head 19cc domes V Force 2 Reeds FMF SST Pipes with Turbine Core 2 Silencers Timing Advanced +4 deg Nology Coil with Hot Wires Boss Racing Billit Intake PJ 34mm Carbs with K&N Pods It is fun unofficial drag racing YFZ's with my raptor. Most of the people that want to race me are the 16 year old kids. They see it as "Yamaha's ultra hi performace, lightest weight race ready from the factory machine Vs. Trail machine, top heavey, tipsey, step above a utility machine." That look that you get when your right beside and pulling away from them is fun.

How about you need to do a DC conversion. That is why you need to install another regulator / rectifier. Your battery puts out DC (direct current). Your banshee's stator puts out AC (alternating current). They are not compatable. So you have to some rewireng on the stator and some with the banshee's wiring harness to get it to work. Banshee DC Conversion LINK josh

Put it in the hose going from the head to the top of the radiator. You got it backwards. Water flows from the bottom of the radiator to the engine/water pump. The pump then sends the coolant to the cylindars and flows up to the cylindar head. Then from the cylindar head to the top of the radiator. If it flowed how you descibed it then you loose just the tiny's bit of coolant then you have no coolant circulating at all. The pump doesnt get fed any more since the top of the radiator is empty while the bottom is still full. Hot water is has less density so as it cools it gets more dense. The denser coolant goes to the bottom of the radiator. On the banshee this isnt that big of an issure becase the radiator tanks are on the top and bottom. Look at automobiels. The coolant tanks are on the sides. Why is the water pump feed from the bottom of one of the tanks, becuase it is where the coolest coolant is. If you dont believe me take your banshee out for a drive. Then feel the top and bottom radiator tanks and see for your self wich is hotter. The hotter one it the return and the cooler one is the feed. josh

Hot Rods makes a stroker kit for the warrior. You might look in to that. One of the guys that I go riding with had a warrior and he put a 11:1 piston and a web or megacycle camshaft in it. I believe it was there all out race cam. It revs to the point were you were afraid that engine was going to let go. I would also do a clean up job on the ports at the minimum. I got a Hot Rods stroker kit in my raptor 660 wich is now a 720 and it is reliable. It is a 102mm (2 mm. over) piston and a +4mm stroke crank. The warrior kit come with a +7mm stroke crank. It makes 396cc's. Hot Rods Products LINK

Most people run 32:1 or 40:1. Personaly I run 32:1. A little more oil never hurt anything. I also recomend running a Klotz Oil. I use Klotz Supertechniplate. It is a synthetic oil that has 20% Klotz Benol Caster oil in it. Here is some info on popular oils. Klotz R50 Flash point = 400 deg F. Viscosity of 18 cSt at 100 deg C. or 950 SUS at 100 deg F. (Approx. 50 Weight Oil) Klotz R50 Techniplate Tech Sheet LINK Klotz Supertechniplate Flash point = 460 deg F. Viscosity = 200 cSt at 40 deg C. or 950 SUS at 100 deg F. (Approx. 50 Weight Oil) Klotz Supertechniplate Tech Sheet LINK Klotz Benol Flash Point = 520 deg F. Viscosity = 220 cSt at 40 deg C. or 950 - 1100 Sus at 100 deg F. (Approx 50 Weight Oil) Klotz Benol Tech Sheet LINK Amsoil Saber (100:1 recomended by them not me) Flash Point = 237 deg F Viscosity = 99 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.5 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Saber LINK Amsoil Domintator Flash Point = 198 deg F Viscosity = 40.9 cSt at 40 deg C. or 7.6 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Domintator LINK Amsoil Interceptor Flash Point = 183 deg F. Viscosity = 40.9 cSt at 40 deg C. or 8.0 cSt at 100 deg C. Amsoil Interceptor LINK Well might as will add Maxima Oil to the list. Maxima Castor 927 Flash Point = 420 deg F. Viscosity = 133.1 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.79 cSt at 100 deg C. Viscosity = 617 SUS at 100 deg F. Maxima 927 Castor LINK Maxima Formula K2 Flash Point = 240 deg F. Viscosity = 97.0 cSt at 40 deg C. or 13.58 cSt at 100 deg C. Viscosity = 450 SUS at 100 deg F. Maxima Formula K2 LINK I am not a rocket scientist but to me thicker oil that burns at a higher temp = better protection. I run Klotz Supertechniplate synthetic oil bleneded 20% with there benol racing castor oil. It smokes some but not as much as yamaha lube. If you want no smoke or very little try the Klotz R50. It is 100% synthetic. I think next time I am going to try Klotz Benol. It offers the most protection but it is a castor oil and it burns a little dirtier than the others.

If you want to mess around on the big drifts. Wait until they have had time to get a hard crust on them. Then you can kind of drive on them like dunes. If you hit them fast you just plow in. Take it easy until you get on top. Loose the rear swing arm skid. It will just get u high centered easier. You might try a set of snow tires. Some tire companies make a snow tire. Those big baloon one with the cross web style tread. The ones that the big guys run in the sand drags.

Duncan's R&D. Boost Bottle = Cash for us. Product that doenst do crap that brings in more money. We have to make this a cheap mods so all the little kids can afford it. We are going for more salse at lower price instead of the fewer sales at a higher price. That way people will be less likely to retun the product when they find out it does nothing.

Just make sure that you get the timing plate and not the deg key. The degree keys are off set and have been known to sheer off. I need to get my flywheel lightened too. Where does every body get this done at? Yea when i did my first one too I kind of freeked out too. Cut the threads off and there it was.

Money not a factor and something different. I would do the cheeta or t-rex power valve engine.

I run the b8es because my banshee is an older one. I am not for sure but some time yamaha started using the br8es wich is a resistor spark plug. The B8ES are not resistor plugs. I run a nology coil and there hot wires. They recomend running a non resistor plug to get the maximum spark energy to the plug. The BR8ES has a resistor in it to keep RF interferiance supressed. RF interferiance can cause the cdi to mess up. It is also the ticking sound that you can hear when you listen to the radio when you have bad plug wires or bad conections with the plug wires on your vehicle. I dont know how yamaha delt with the interferiance when they listed the banshee to run B8ES plugs. I think that maybe the spark plug wire termanals had the resistors built in to them. I havent had anyproblems with the non resistor plugs messing with my cdi. I know dyna digital fs cdi's say to use resistor plugs. I dont think you will fry anything if you try B8Es's you might get a miss fire. Yea and I run keihin carbs.

I like the water bottle relocated up to the front. That is pretty trick too

150 psi i would run just premium pump fuel. Are you running any ignition timing advace?

I am sure that Amsoil is a good oil. There is deffinatley a lot worse out there. Just telling people why I run Klotz. Premix oil is a on going Ford vs. Chevy war. It is all about your prefreance.