jbooker82

Yea get the chome. The finishs is way more durable than any paint or PC job. I clean my pipes with 0000 Steel wool, and acetone. Try that on a painted or pc'd surface.(I wouldnt recomend it unless you want to strip the finish off) If your worried about the price. Rocky mountain sells the Chrome T5 pipes and Silencers for 499. Free shipping on any order over 100 bucks. You can beat that price. josh

I would just get the pipes. Then get 2 KN filters that clamp right to the carbs. Makes Jetting so much easier.

I would talk to jeff at www.farmandsandtoys.com He has the best prices around. I think a 4 mill long rod cranks is around 475 trued and extra welded. He does a great job. Good guy to deal with as well. josh

Yea. Then if you happen to get a little low then it will pull a little more back in. Air expands and contracts with temperature change more severly than a liquid. That is why you end up pulling some back in if you get a little low. The only thing that draws in coolant from that tank is the heating and cooling of the coolant.

What elevation are you running at? What do your spark plugs look like. I borrowed this pic from Red's post. Does the plug on the left hand side resemble what yours look like?

Bored to a 409 with no porting. I bet a good ported stock bore banshee has more hp.

Try it for your self. I would say it is a recirculating tank. I dont see how it couldnt be like every body else said. With the radiator clear full, engine completley cold and a little coolant in the tank, mark the level on the tank. Warm the banshee up to the normal opperating temperature. Is the level above the mark on the tank you made with the engine complely cold? Shut it off and let it sit over night did the coolant level go back to your mark you made?

How much?

I run an ESR 250 Temp gauge on my raptor. It is a quality unit. The Fitting is billit aluminum, and the gauge is liquid filled to vibrations wont destroy the gauge ESR 250 LINK On my banshee I just used a brass t fitting. Two stubs of pipe to slice in line with the upper radiator hose, a real short stub and a Female to Female adaptor. You cant see it cuase it is tucked up by the coil.

I coated a set of domes to get rid of some damage like that. It wasnt quite as bad, but it worked. Once I blasted the domes with slag you couldnt even see the damage any more. Then I sprayed on this heat reflective coating made for combustion chambers and piston heads. Bake at 300 for 1 hr to cure. Here is my coated Wiesco Pistons Me and a coulple of guys might head out your way and try the riding at KP Dunes. We ususally go some where out of state in Ocotber. We have been thinking about trying KP out.

Well i will be rolling along at just above an idle and jab it to 1/2 throttle and it boggs. Sounds like you turn the ignition off and are holding the carbs opean. No cough or sneez or back fire. It starts on the 3rd kick when cold. It is better now that I put 48 Pilots in vs. the 52's that they come with. My air screws are around 2 turns out. I will probably up the main one size. I really dont like riding when it is that cold out. I just thought I would go do a plug chop and see. 50 deg or so is about the coldest i would like to ride at. I will up the main 1 more size and do a plug chop when it is a little warmer. Might be a little while before I can get around to it. The nebraska winter weather, it could be sunny and nice out one minute and it could be snowing the next. :yelrotflmao: I really apprecat you guys help. josh

What elevation are you running at? I would say start out at 330. I would go a head and throw in the next size up pilot jet as well. The next size up from stock is 27.5.

I will try the next size up (158) too. It was pretty cold today, about the coldest i would ride in. I just didnt know if a quick accereration through the gears and being at wot for 20 sec or so would be long engough to get a good reading.

I need to go up one on the needle 4th. When I jam it to 1/2 or so throttle it bogs. Like it is lean.

Hey I am in the process of jetting my banshee's new carbs. I went from Keihin PJ34's (152 main jet, CEK needle 3rd middle clip) to Keihin PWK33's (155 Main jet, CEL needle middle clip postion). My banshee ran great with the PJ's and 152 mains in around 60 to 80 deg weather. I never did a plug chop with the 152 mains in there. I did one with 155's in the PJ's and it had a dark brown ring. I just took the banshee out and did a plug chop with the PWK33's (155 main, CEL Middle Clip Position). It seem to run ok on the top end. It was 30 deg out tonight when I did it. I think that it might be lean though. Here are the pics of the Plug chop I did tonight. I just ran WOT through the gears all the way up to 6th and held it at WOT for probably 10 to 20 sec. Is that why the pics look like it is lean. Not enough time to color the plugs? Let me know what you think. josh

Is your stock head Milled? If it is in your garage throw that bad boy on there.

Well any lube is wet. That holds dirt in there and cause them to wear out. I think that is why they say it is best to run them dry. They are supose to have teflon in them for lubercation.

The Wal Mart one doesnt press in. On the hose it has the short 14mm thread and short 18mm thread. You screw this long adaptor on to the hose for the 14mm long thread. The problem is that the adaptor is hollow in side and the check vavle for the hose is up out of the cylinder. This adds volume to the compression chamber. Here are some pics of the wal mart special. Here is my snap on gauge. It has individual hoses for each thread type. The Check Valve is in the very tip of the hose so there is no addition to the combustion chamber size. Pluse the snap on gauge doesnt read as high so the psi markings are spread out farther so it is more accurate and easier to read. Who really needs a compression gauge to read 300 psi on a gas engine? Here is the pics of my snap on gauge. Do you see where I am coming from now? josh

You need to make sure that you get the kind with the long thread end. I got one of those cheap o wal mart ones. It has the brass long threaded adaptor that threads on to the hose. I used a graduated dropper that reads cc. I put the brass adaptor on the hose then used the eye droper to find the volume of the inside of the adaptor. It adds +3 cc to the combustion chamber. I have 19cc domes and with my cheap o gauge it reads 125 psi. With my snap on compression gauge it reads 155 psi. 19cc's + 3cc that the cheap o comression gauge adds Total = 22cc 125psi normal for 2000 ft elevation. 19cc + 0 cc's that the snap on gauge doesnt add. total 19cc's 155psi normal for 200 ft elevation. The snap on gauge doenst add volume to the head because the check vavle is right in the end of the hose. The Cheap o wal mart gauge the valve is still clear up out of the head. I mean that adaptor is better than just using a short adaptor but not the best. josh

Why not a Detroit True Track? Clutchless Posi that uses worm gears. I would have thought that would have been the best posi or limited slip. Detrot Locker in the rear of 67 Ford Bronco 4.88 gears Ford 9in.

Here is my HPI MT2 4x4 stadium truck. I put an OS .18 TZ turbo engine in it. Factory Rated at 1.8 HP. Nitro RC put it on there dyno and rated it at 2.3 hp. The Engine winds all the way up to 42,500 RPM. The carb on it is as big as most of your .25's + .30's have in the monster trucks. The carb bell diameter is 16mm. I got is set up for snow in these pics.

Why put it in a crap box 4 wheeler that is going to beat the hell out of you when you ride it? I would think you would be looking for some thing with desent suspension? Heck if your going the cheap route just find you a non running 80's yamaha Moto 4 :yelrotflmao:

Did you trim down the rubber intake boots good enough? I would check that over to make sure.

Here is your pics

I got my 33pwk's for 150 a piece from FAST. Boss from In2Glamis for 100