jbooker82

I would run them if you have an intake that has a big square opening. If yours is round I would port the stock plastic stuffer to match. Cascade stuffers are really needed when you have a large square intake like the Boss Racing intake.

4mill crank might help him ride a little better with the increased low and mid range due to the extra stroke. For most guys running a 4 mill we give up the extra low end for some more top end but if you kept it a mild port then it would make for a better low, and midrange. I would put it together with a 4mill long rod crank, wiseco 795 series pistons and a cut head. If you space the cylinders off the case then your raising the port hights 2mm wich will in general shift the power to the top end.

I dont know sounds like Trinity is doing pretty well. Selling stuff on ebay with ebay style customer service. Guess the customer service suits the type of business they run.

So does this meen that loco can bring back the F trinity posts from the archives?

Things to blame on Taiwan: 1. Rod failures 2. Wristpin length 3. Windycityjohn's Trinity motor 4. Zillafreak's non working EFI 5. EZUP guy's sales techniques 6. RIS brakes 7. Lindsey Lohan's drug problem 8. The unemployment rate 9. Obama's spending EDIT: Oops, I thought I quoted you when I actually hit the edit button - Gato

Yep and why do you think the Craftsman ratches have short handles, and coars teeth. So when you put a cheater on it the warrenty is void and they dont have to replace it. Nothing like haveing a junk ratchet that you have to move 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn just to get it to ratchet.

Need to get you a HPI Baja or Losi 5ive. Put a tuned pipe on it. Then run it around. I usually get death glares when I get mine out. It is way more anoying than an atv running.

What exactly did you buy.

Well good luck and keep us informed.

Maybe that is how they are from the factory, and with in their quality control specs.

ran both 2's and 3's with no problems. 2x as many reeds opeing half as far = greater reed responce because they have half the distance to travel.

Works aftermarket shocks.

I would have Mull Engineering do my stock head if I was going to have one done. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-head-mod-billet-cut-modify-machine-squish-dome-plug-heat-race-drag-online-modify-modification

ASV C5's Pro Perch.

That and if a plug pops out you get a flame thrower. All the hot carbon and oil that cant burn because there is no more oxygen insdie the pipe hits the fresh air ouside of pipe.

Then on top of it you have to worry about the cracks, and rust holes that you cant see and that he hasnt said anything about.

Yep 4mill long rod $435 as is from Hot Rods, or $450 with extra weld from Jeff at F.A.S.T.

Yep what he said. $450 for extra weld only. I bought my crank used from jeff, It is a hot rods crank with max load, and tz bearings for $320 bucks or so. It was a low hr, customer went bigger deal.

Cold motor = Dry Clutch plates, wich cause the sticking. The longer it sits the worse the symptoms are.

Hot Rod cranks also have the red aluminum spacer in the middle. Most other cranks have an aluminum gray one or a black one. Also Hot Rods cranks have Hot Rods conecting rods. It should say on the side of the rod.

Resleeving cylinders isnt cheap. The labor cost more than the actuall sleeves. I had a pair resleeved and had about 500 in the sleeve job alone. If you go hog wild with the largest sleeve possible then you reduce the transfer ports because the sleeves are so large. I had a pair of 66mm-68mm sleeves installed in mine. I just ran blaster pistons on a 4 mill long rod crank. They didnt cut in to the transfer ports. There was still aluminum next to the sleeve in the transfer ports.

Genuine Hot Rods 4mill crank from FAST for $435 or with extra weld for $450. Pretty good price on a genuine Hot Rod crank. I actually bought my 4mill used from jeff. Came with a max load on the stator side and a TZ on the pto side. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

and as close to the head as possible.

Just get a Sthil BG55 leaf blower. Hook the fuel line up to the banshee tank so you dont have to run seperate fuel tanks. Then use a second throttle lever, that way you can control the leaf blower seperatly from the banshee throttle.

You cant go wrong wtih TM. I run the front slider, power lip rolers, and the rear chain guid with rollers.