jbooker82

What needle do you have in the carbs?

Where do you get this chain tensioner?

:yelrotflmao:

Look at how the lid is made. I dont think it would stop water. The pleats would hold water, and then it wouldnt have any way to go but down. If you really think you need something over the top of your air box go for an outerwars air box cover.

I run 19cc domes at 2600 feet elevation. I have 150 psi in each cylinder, but my banshee aslo has been mx ported as well. Porting will lower your compression psi. josh

That is what ebay is good for. Nickle and Diming you all day long when you list something. % here % there.

I would bet it is just the KN Stock Replacement style. I would just get the prodesigne kit. josh

What does the carb look like. Is there fins in the front side of the carbs.(The air filter side) The Air Striker carb has them where regular PWK's dont. Is there Vent lines that come up out of the top of the carb and loop over to the opposiet side? There should be a vent on each side that comes up and loops over to the opposite side. There are also one on each side that goes straight down. (4 vent lines total) That is another Air Striker Carb feature. Here is a pick of a PWK Air Striker Carb. The regular PWK's just have two vents (one on each side) that go straight down. They aslo dont have the fins that in the air filter side like the Air Striker's do.

That pic is of the B8ES and the BR8ES? Did you make sure that you warmed the shee up on the old plugs and then put the new ones in? josh

Man you got the sickness early. That is what i like to see. Buying mods before you even have the shee. That is my style. jsoh

You use Rotella 85w as in 80w-90 gear oil for automobiel rear axles? That stuff is way thick. I bet if you switched to Belray 80w gear saver oil you would never go back. It really isnt an 80w weight oil. When you shake the jug it feels a litter thicker than ATF.

Hay i will take them. PM me the Paypal address so i can send the cash. josh

I would go 20 cc domes since your at 2000 ft. Acording to Noss Machines table that should put you around 150 psi with a good topend. The table is at the bottom of there page. Noss Machine LINK

That 20-40 oil might be a little thick. You wont have a problem with it causing your clutch to slip because it probably is designed for a wet clutch system. I think that the shifting wouldnt be as good do to the heavyness of the oil. Bel Ray 80w oil realy isnt an 80w oil. When you get a quart of bel ray next time shake the 20-40 then shake the quart of bel ray 80w. The 20-40 engine oil will feel way stiffer and thicker. I would just keep running Bel Ray Gear Saver if it was me.

What about the AMS Zippers. How do they fall with these other two tires. josh

You should just put Engine Ice in. When you add water your causing the freezing point to go up. Straight Engine Ice is good to -24 to -26 deg. If you add water then you weaken it. josh

I drianed my coolant. Then filled it up with prestone coolant system flush and distilled water. Ran it for a while. Drained that filled it up with just distilled water. Ran it for a little while. Then drained it. You can take out the little bolts out of the cylinders to help drain the excess water out of the cylinders. then just pull the water pump cover. If do the final drain while the shee is still hot it will help get all the water out. One jug was enough for my banshee with my cool head. josh

Here are the t6 clamps Toomy T6 Clamps LINK

Anybody try the Maxxis 4-Snow tires? How did they do? Are they worth getting? How deep of snow did they work in? josh

Wouldnt carbon fiber crack instead of flexing if you put your machine on its side? It would look sweet while it was nice looking.

Get both. How are you running your stroker. Do you have a spacer plate between the crank case and cylinders, or is the head cut for the stoker. If the head is cut then who ever cut the head probably alread did work to the head to raise the compression. Then you really wouldnt see a gain in HP because it alread had a higher compression head. If you get the carbs I would look at the boss racing intake. The Boss Racing intake will raise the carbs so the LH carb bowl bolt wont hit the clutch arm. I dont know if the prodesige intake will raise the carbs or not. Some people just have the bolt removed and the hole welded up. Then you have to pull the whole carb bowl off to change the main jet. Where if you leave it you just thread out the 17mm plug and chage the jet through the bolt hole. Makes jetting way faster. Here is the boss racing intake. I has a built in crossover tube and gets rid of the boost bottle. Make for way mor room over the carbs, and jetting is easier.

No clams you have to buy them seperate. All they come with for sealing that joint up is a peice of high temp heater hose. No clamp to clamp down on them. RM ATV had cascade pipe clamps on sale or a close out price for the T5's. That is where I got mine about a month ago. josh

They were probable a cheaper Keihin Knock Off. If it were me i would just get the real deal for a couple of bucks more. Nothing like trying to chase down carb or jetting problems and having doubts about the carbs you just bought.

Doing a plug chop with those two different plugs wouldnt have make a difference. They are both the same heat range, One is a resistor plug and the other is a non resistor plug. I wouldnt see that causing the color to be any different. You will probably end up doing a air screw adjustment for the 1/8 or right off idle stumble you have. Mess with the needle and then the air screw.

I like haveing noting in the way at all. My intake has a built in crossover tube. Gets all that stuff out of the way and makes jetting easier. It is a Boss Racing Intake. The make one for stock to 28mm carbs, and one for 33mm to 35mm carbs. I also rases the carbs up a little to clear the clutch arm on bigger aftermaket carbs. That way the Float bowl plug doenst rub on the clutch arm.