jbooker82

Since your already running methanol, you need to try Nitromethane. :beer:

Here is the real explination. Nitrous is NO2. 1 atom of Nitrogen with 2 atoms of Oxygen. When NO2 is compressed the bonds that hold the Nitrogen and Oxygen atoms together break. Making Oxygen free to use in the combustion process. The more oxygen you cram in to your cylinders the more fuel you need. Other wise you will be running lean. If you run nitrous lean then you have a major melt down on your hands. Lean on nitrous can also cause severe detonation. (Breaking ring lands) That is why you would want to run a wet shot. That way when you hit the NO2 your also adding fuel. Other wise you will have to have your banshee jetted rich for normal riding around wich would hurt performance, but it would be jetted right on when your on the bottle.

I ran one of those cascade tumb throttle levers. I ended up taking it off because you had push it farther to get to WOT. It did make the throttle easier but i just got some springs from FAST and it feels like stock carbs with my stock thumb throttle lever now.

:shoothead: Yea waste your money like this guy said. I would get a timing plate and have your stock head shaved. That would be within the ball park of 100 bucks, probably a little less. Having your flywheel lightened isnt really going to give you more power, it will just alter how the machine responds.

It isnt real easy to tell what kind of port job you will have. Weather it is a woods, mx, dune, drag, or what ever. The differences between different port jobs can be just a few mm's in port hight. (distance from the top of the jug to the top of the port) You would really need a builder to look them over and use a degree wheel to see what kind of port job you had. Other wise just look for grinder marks instad of the rought cast aluminum of the stock cylinders. That will let you know if you have a port job or not. josh

Acting Retarded it is the new trend. Some people will finally fit in with out even trying. :yelrotflmao:

You can look at the intake ports behind the reed vavles. These are just pictures of the intake ports. Where you get the power from is work done to the exhaust and transfer ports. You jugs could look like they are ported by the intake ports but it could aslo be some body doing there home made clean up port job. Look at the transfer ports in the sides of the cylinders. See if they look like cast aluminum or if somebody has been in there with some porting tools. Ported Stock

Barnett makes a billit basket that has replaceable stainless steel inserts. Looks pretty neat. When it gets grooved you just replace the stainless steel inserts. I would imagine that the stainless steel would wear better than aluminum. There is a guy selling them out of colorado on ebay for 204 and free shipping. That is probably going to be the one that I will be buying Barnett Clutch Basket LINK Barnett Clutch Basket on Ebay LINK

That is just called a dunable override transmission. Pretty much any of the big builders can do that for you. Regular override transmissions you cannot shift down while moving like you said.

banshee332 Bought a set of cylinders from him. Great guy to deal with. Answers you back when you pm him. Thanks again josh jbooker82

PM BigRed350x he got a pretty nice one that you can change the stones out so you can use different grits. josh

docbones Sold the Doc a pair of tires. Paid fast, good guy to deal with. :thumbsup: josh jbooker82

Sold. You have a PM.

I never did weld the bolt hole up. When I used those UPP carb boots they are a stock style for bigger carbs. The carb bolt rubbed on my clutch lever. Most people use an intake that moves the carbs up and back. My carbs clear the clutch arm fine now that I have the boss racing intake. What kind of intakes are you running on your banshee? josh

That is what I run PWK 33's, and T5's. They are a good combo for a ported banshee that isnt a 100% duner.

For the intake boots that go from the engine to the carbs, make sure you get ones that are not very thick. I used these UPP ones. UPP Racing Intake Boots LINK You want to run something that isnt so thick. I run the boss racing intake it would be way to thick to try to cram in there. If I was going to run air box i would try these out. They are made by Vito's. They have a X in them that helps to keep turbulance down. I dont know where you would get them new, these are just on ebay. Plus with these you dont run a boost bottle. You can see how much cleaner it is in the pics of my boss racing intake. Vito's BullsEye Intake Boots LINK The key is to find somthing that isnt thick so you have more room for the air box. Here is a pic of my boss racing intake. It is pretty thick to try to run an air box with. You will also have to have the drain bolt in the LH carbuetor welded up. It will hit on the clutch arm if you dont. The thick intakes like the boss racing intake will move the carbs back enought that they wont hit the clutch arm. You could aslo try reedspacers people use them to help clear bigger carbs as well. josh

I used a set of these when I had my air box. UPP Racing Air Box Boots LINK I still got them, they are black 15 bucks plus a little shipping they are yours. josh

You could run FMF Power Core 2's, If you need a spark arrested silencer you could run FMF Turbine Core 2's, If you need a quiet silencer you could run FMF The Q. FMF's Titanium 2 is supose to be a shorty style silencer so that would be a little louder. FMF Racing Silencer LINK I dont know if there is other brands of silencers that you can run with your fmf pipes. josh

It all depends on how buisy the builder is. there are lots of good people to do porting, all depends on how much you want to spend. jeff at farm and sand toys http://www.farmandsandtoys.com Passion Racing http://www.passionracingengines.com K&T http://www.ktperformance.com/store.asp Dan at A&S Racing These are just a few. josh

And no body join's there local atv club that fights to keep things opean.

No Sorry already sold them in this post. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72386

Since your banshee isnt ported those CPI's are probably not performing the best. CPI's are not really designed for a stock ported engine. Get it ported and that will be the night and day difference your looking for. Bigger carbs will only make your shee even a bigger dog with those pipes and stock porting. josh

My bar clamp is the trial tech one made for there lights. You just get the standard mounting brackt that comes with gauges. You know that little stamped steel part. Straighten it out and put it in between the bar clamp and steering stem. Clamp it down tight. The gauge lines up perfict with the hole in the bar clamp. For the sensor. I just useded a Brass T fitting and some other fittings. Put it in line with the upper radiator hose. I would like to get a real mount like Big Red Was taliking about making. josh

I had to that is the best offer i have seen.

You would have to use a wide band meter like the LM1. Dyno's use a wide band oxygen sensor. Narrow band oxygen sensors are not accurate enought to pin point jetting. They will tell you if your rich or lean but cannot pinpoint a A/F ratio. Plus do you really want to mess up that nice Chrome?