jbooker82

Why would you drag Jeff in to this? He has a great reputaion, great guy to deal with. Why would you bing his name in here to possibly get bashed and have a bad name. That makes no sence. It isnt no big deal to you. Doesnt affect your Income. If it was an attack on my job i would be pissed as hell to. Sorry for the ranting Jeff but it isn't right for some one to thow your name around. I am sure most will agree with me. josh

Bashing a well respected BHQ'er isnt going to sell your machine. Just like the Full Bore post the more you opean your mouth and prove your an idiot the less your item is going to sell for. You had people give you honest bids and after proving your real intelligence here on BHQ you had to put the full bores on ebay and they sold for less than what people offered you. You are the dumb one. :shoothead:

When you get that intake put on you can ditch the reed spacers. That intake lifts up and moves the carbs back so they clear the clutch arm. Another +

You should send them to a builder and have them set them up. They will drill out some passages to flow more fuel. You will also need power jets installed. Measure the opeaing on the motor side of the carbs to tell what size they are. You can go to Keihins web page for the measurments. Keihin US Web Page LINK

Let me guess. You know you have 180 psi because the chart says so. :shoothead: I run 19cc domes and have 150 psi on each side. Try doing a compression test and then re ask the question. You know what happens when you ASS U ME

You will aslo need to start out with stock ported cylinders. When you have a set of cylinders ported for a stock stroke crank they opean up the transfer port on the top of the port. Well when you put a stroker crank in the opean up the transfer portd downward, because the piston travels 2mm farther in to the cylinder. Most of the time stock stroke cylinders that have been ported have the transfers opeaned up to the top to far. So when the builder opeans up the transfer ports on the bottom side the port is to large. I hope that kind of makes sence.

I would deffinatly try the CEL Needles. Here is a good explination web page about Keihin Carbs and what the needle letters means. D.R.I. Keihin Carb Tech LINK

I couldnt tell you that. The inside of the intake is round and looks like it would match the Round intake track to the V Force 3 Reeds.

"Other Customers Also Purchased" :yelrotflmao:

That is why i bought mine for the new o rings. Figured I would throw the new spring on too since I had them. The springs lasted a couple of riding trips.

Free bump for a good seller. :thumbsup:

Free Bump for a good seller :thumbsup:

Get the Raven Swivel springs. I had problems with the fmf ones breaking. They are really thin spring.

Does it seem to run ok? What other needles have you tried? Did your builder recomend that DEJ. I havent herd of anybody running one of those needles. Most people with 33-35mm PWK carbs run a CEL. Your main jet aslo sounds kind of rich. Maybe PM Dajogejr. He could give you a cood recomendation. I dont think he ran that big of a main with is cub set up.

It probably does. ATF is a high detergant oil. I have dumped a quart of it in my engine oil on my pickup and ran it 300-500 miles then changed the oil. It is supose to clean out your engine. Dont know if it actually works or not. We use to use it at the salvage yard that I worked at to free stuck rings on older car and pickup engines too.

No case mods to run ethire. I am not for sure how you tell the difference between a long rod stock stroke and the long rod 4mill stroke.

What is your jetting? Main Jet Size What needle and Clip Position Pilot Jet Air Screw truns out It might also be your porting. When you have your cylinders ported for a stock crank they raise the transer port hight. When the builders port the transfers for the stock crank they are to high for the stroker crank. I know you said that you have a spacer plate that is what I am not to sure of. Most builders dont run them. They just cut the head for the stroker.

Yep they make two different ones. One is for stock carbs to 28mm and the other one is for 33 to 35mm carbs. I am running the boss intake with my 33 PWK carbs. It really is a nice intake. Plus if you ever need new boots you just buy 15 dollar mikuni boots. The part number is molded right on the lip of the carb boot. Here you go. They say it is for 34mm carbs but it fits 33 to 35mm. These guys is who I bought mine from. They aslo had the best price. Boss Racing Intake on Ebay LINK josh

:thumbsup: That is what I would do. I dont think that the pipes are going to be a night and day difference that your looking for. Get it ported now, and then when your all done buying mods that you dont already have then try a different set of pipes.

I use belray gear saver 85w too. Alot of people seem to think that it is a real heavy oil, but when you shake the jug it feels like automatic transmission fluid. It seems to do the best shifting.

160 you could run 50/50 with pump premium easlily.

Here is another pic. Like i said before look in the ports on the sides of the cylinders. Is there any grinder marks in there? Anybody can do what these pictures look like with a dremel. Where the power is made from is the transfers. I will post som pics of some other cylinders tomarrow. I will get my digital camera out and snap some pics for you.

I guess I dont see how forcing the carb to flow more fuel is more reliable than haveing a foger nozzle that is designed to flow fuel and NO2. That would leave me to believe that the boondockers kit would be a minimum gain. You dont see any dry kits for older cars with carburetors. If the dry system was really that effective you would be seeing them on cars with carburetors. The only systems that really work with a dry system is a fuel injected machine where the injectors add the extra fuel.

:yelrotflmao: I know I know. Your classified was the last place I remember seeing a good pic of the stock intake ports.

Jeff at www.farmandsandtoys.com PM Rocketboy here on HQ I believe he does it Pretty much anybody that does porting will more than likely be able to shave the head. Might try www.trinityracing.com Your local machine shop might even be able to do it. I think that most poeple start at having .025 shaved off. You can always go more later but cannot put it back on. A cool head or noss head is the best way to raise compression but they run a couple hundred.