jbooker82

You could aslo cut 1 of the 2 floats off. Run just 1 float in each carb. That can help keep a little more fuel in the carb bowls.

You talk to them yet? How did you come out? josh

The wsx is in a powder form. It is dry. The cam bearings in my raptor i think would be the hydrodynamic style. The cam just rests in the journals. (No roller bearings at all) There is no bearing halfs just a machine fit. I am getting am buying parts to build my 400 stroker. Maybe I will take the old pistons and put a little propane bottle toarch on the piston head to simulate buring in the combustion chamber. Leave it on ther for say a minute or two. Check the temp from the underer side. Then do the same with an old uncoated piston. See if the coating helps or not. josh

I wasnt really looking for huge performance gain. More of a protection against burning holes in pistons, and excessive heat build up. If something didnt happen that was the goal. That company you listed only charges 25 a piston and that is to coat the head, skirt and under side with different coatings. That isnt to bad. I would almost have somebody do it. It is a real pain in the butt to do it. Media Blasting, Putting on the coating, Baking it. Then if you put it on to thick staring over and doing all over again. Pluse those 3 products that bought were 100 bucks for all three. Pluse if you need to buy a cheap sand blaster, and air brush. On my next build I think I will just have some body do it.

Most people that do engine coatings use there products. The products that they sell for professional applications are solvent base. The ones that they sell for retail use are water based. Wether they work or not who knows. WSX is just a powder. When I did my raptor i had the cam laying in the journal on the head and i spun it. I then rubbed the powder on the cam and in the berring journals on the head. Spun it again and it spun way eaiser and longer. When I get ready to tear in to my banshee again I will take pictures of the coated parts for an update. See how it held up. josh

I just did it my self. You have to blast the parts with a sharp hard media. Somthing like slag "the black blast" or silica sand. You cant use glass beeds because they dont opean up the poors of the metal. I used an air brush to spray the coating on. Then baked it at 325 for 1 hr. Here is the coatins I used. Techline Coatings Retail Coatings LINK CBC1 on the piston heads, and domes. DFL1 on the skirts of the pistons. WSX Buffed in to the Cross hatched cylinder. It is real picky. You spray it on to thick and it will buble up and you get to restart over. josh

You try contacting the people that make shearers. Let them know what happened. As far as I am concerned doesnt matter where you bought them because they all come from the same place.

I havent seen a 2 stroke bike or atv that didnt seep some oil out where the pipe meets the cylinder.

I had one that looked kind of like that. I ceramic coated it. It is a coating that is a heat barrier and heat reflective. That keeps the heat from building up in the cooling system. The heat passes out the engine with the exhaust instead of soaking in to internal engine parts. I also did the pistons while I was at it. You could try it and have some body do it if you didnt want to buy new domes.

Can any body else understand what he is trying to say?

Have you tried the grape yet. It is my favorite. :thumbsup:

If your doing a top end then there is no other perfict time to get it ported. Yea you will notice a big difference with porting. The 2 in to 1 carb is capable of producing power. There is lots of people that run ported cylinders with stock carbs. I would consider a 2 in to 1 higher up on the perfromance scale than stock carbs. Porting is a night and day difference over stock cylinders. Other mods you can feel, but after pipes, porting is the next big improvement. Porting is what I would do if you have the cash. Then do the bolt on stuff that doesnt require you to tear the top end down. You could install a timing plate while you had it appart. They only cost 35 bucks from ebay. Get a noss head and up the compression, or just have your stock head shaved down for now. Vforce 3 reeds.

If you cut around the threads you can get a much better look. These are a little on the lean side.

That is exactly what it is supose to do.

FireHead nice discover. He plays his games over here, Tries selling his suff on PS. We can play his games over on PS as well. It is only fair to let the people know what kind of person he is.

That kind of sucks. Go Figure Toomey Makes there money selling banshee pipes and runs out :yelrotflmao: When I got mine I needed them in a hurry. I figured I would pay more and order them stright from toomey. Toomey calls and tells me that they are backorded. So I was forced to look around and snaged Inland Atv's (in2glamis on ebay) last set. They said I was lucky because they were on back order. Doesnt sound like toomey has caught up yet.

I bet they used it as a Upper Cylinder Lubercant. Manhattan Oil Company sells some stuff that is supose to help protect against cylinder wash down that mehtanol causes. Top Lube LINK They also make a fuel fragrence. Ever been to a circle track race and smelled some kind of fruit smell after all the cars went by. It is probably this stuff. Around here Grape is what most people use. Fuel Fragrance

I am not for sure about this but Ethanol (Ethyl alcohol) might not be as corrosive to aluminum as methanol is.

Chrome is the only way to go on a 2 stroke. Yea if it was a 4 stroke I would say send it to jet hot. They did my raptors exhaust and it looks sweet. Were talking about a machine that burns on average of 1 quart of oil for every 8 gallons of gas. Your dealing with oil, and lots of it. Try cleaning off burn oil on jet hot coated pipes. With chrome you can just get some 0000 Steel Wool and some Acetone and take it right off. The Acetone disolves the oil. Use Acetone on your jet hot coated pipes and the coating comes right off.

Oh well. You can get Toomey T5's from www.rockymountainatv.com for $499 and get free shipping. Not $600 like you claim. Toomey T5's from Rocky Mountain Atv LINK

Methanol also is corrosive to aluminum. Here is the quote from Wikpedia. Doesnt matter if it is mixed with gas or not it is still there. Wikpedia Methanol LINK

Yea I believe people have found them at the volkswagen stores. Dont the mercury tube ones you hook in to a vaccuum port right around the carb? You just fire up the machine with no filters on. Put it up against the bell of the carb. The little orange/red needle will move to a number. Go back and fourth making adjustments until both carbs read the same.

Well if you 4 mill was set up to get the max performance you can out of pump gas you should be looking for compression in the area of 150 psi. I would at least get the craftsman compression gauge. Those cheap 20 dollar gauges are not as accurate. I had the cheep o from wal mart, bought a snap on gauge and did a compression test with both gauges. Walmart one read 125/123. My snap on one read 150/150. If that little valve in the hose isnt in the very tip of the hose Then the air space between the adaptor and the little vavle are adding cc's to the combustion chamber. My cheap wal mart one had an adaptor that threaded on to the main hose. A graduated dropper and found that it added 3 cc's. I have 19cc domes but with the 3 extra cc's i was at 22cc's that would explainswhy my cheap gauge reading was low.

24 here.

Pretty much the same thing he should have if he got the 409 kit as well. Then he would still be getting beat by faster cubs.