jbooker82

So did it run better with the 155 main or 170 main? Just wondering if the 155 main spudder was lean or rich?

Here you go. They have plugs that go in the end of your bars so they wont sild off. You can even get aluminum plugs. ODI Locking Grips LINK

As much racing that happens in Memphis TN there has to be some body in that town that sells race fuel. Heck you could probably just go to a race, get in to the pits, and find some body selling fuel. It is only a 100 mile drive from where you are. Go watch a night of racing, get some race fuel way cheaper than 10 bucks a gallon. That is a win win situation. Klotz makes some great products, but there is no way I would pay 10 bucks a gallon. How much is shipping on a 5 gallon can? I bet it is killer since it is hazmat.

Or use it as a crack pipe. :biggrin:

I would just run it and keep an eye on the plugs. The only real mod that might change the air fuel ratio is the Vforce 3's. If you were just a hair rich before you would probably be right on now. josh

If your not going to have the engine ported then say away from the CPI's and Sheerer. They are drag pipes and work the best with a drag port job.

I would say that is your problem 20:1 and klotz benol. Benol is a great oil but burns very dirty. The most i would mix would be 32:1. Have you ever looked in to Klotz's Supertechniplate? It has 20% benol oil. As for cleaning the pipes try to get a hold of some boiler brushes. They look like a bottle brush. Plug the small end of the pipe and dump a can of sea foam in to the pipe and then go to town with the brushes.

Free Bump Just thought I would let you guys know. I got a Direct Drive setup from 350shee. Mine was just a raw new diecast cover, polished lockup, and clear lexan. He is a great guy to deal with. I was kind of worried since he had a low post count. I wouldnt think twice about doing it all over again knowing what I know now. josh

Throw the clutch plates in a bucket and cover them with some oil. That way they are not installed dry.

Go to wal mart and get you some shell rotella synthetic oil. It is made for diesel engines and doesnt have friction modifiers. I think it is a 5w 40 so it is a little lighter oil.

You can start by putting the clutch plates in a bucket and soaking them in what ever kind of trany oil you run.

Sorry want trying to ignore you. I just now seen this post. As near as I can tell by the sticker on the front of the handle bars it is a Montgomery Ward. What is left of the sticker says that any way. It could have been make by that Hodaka company i am not really sure. My girlfriends grandpa has an old Cox Doodle Bug mini bike. Those are supose to be the prestigous ones. I tried getting it from him and that isnt going to happen. I got the Oh no I am goin to fix that up line.

I would say that it is a jetting issue. Probably rich in the pilot circuit to midrange. Main Jet size? Needle clip postion? What Needle? Pilot Jet size? Turns out on Air Screw? What elevation are you at?

It is there just really light. That is why it is lean.

I would say your pistons look normal. Get them measured and if you can I would just say with the stock 64mm bore. What kind of Oil do you run in your Shee? josh

Just pull the plugs on each jug to drain the coolant out of the jugs. :thumbsup:

The out side of the reed block on the 2's have little notches cut out to bairly clear the screw heads. If a screw does work loose it wont be able to come all the way out. I would take a pic for you guys but my girlfriend has my digital camera. I just went a head and ordered new petals from jeff.

Sold each. That price isnt to bad. Lot cheaper than how much the stock ones would have cost new.

Here you go. These are the ones that I used when I replaced the boots on my boss intake. for 33-35mm carbs. Mikuni Carb Boot LINK

Well my banshee' vforece 2 reeds took a crap on me. Sneezed through the carbs and broke a reed. New reeds for the 2's are going to be around 120. New 3's only cost 180-200. I have herd people say that the 2's are actually better than the 3's. Not concerned with money whitch route would you guys go? Josh

Usually when you make the step up to Methanol

By the pics it looks like you just ran it around for a while and then cut the threads off. There should be some what of a defined line. Here are a couple of pics of mine. These pics it is lean. The 2mm ring is to light in color.

Bel Ray Super Clean It doesn't get dirt stuck to it and it doesn't fling off.

The modding you hear about with the stock dual carb setup is that you have to cut a tab off of the intake boots. VForce 3 reeds aslo have a round hole that is desigend to match up to the stock round carb boots. Your trinity intake has a big opean square right? Cascade sells what they call a reed stuffer. That makes the opeaing of the VForce 3 reeds a big square instead of a small round hole. That would be the best mod to improve flow. You can see by the pic how much better it would be for your 2:1 carb. You could also try reed spacers but they are really designed to go between the cylinder and the reed block, not the reed block and carb intake. If you put it inbetween the reed and intake, then the intake doesnt have a smooth flow and they would hurt perfromance more than help. Here a pic and a link. Cascade V Force LINK

Ace would be the place to go. I dont know what size of stud the cool head takes though. M?X thread pitch x Length. Are they all the same length or is a couple of them longer? josh