jbooker82

Yes because a 4 mill stroker crank drops right in. If you go with a 7 or 10 mill you have to cut trenches in the crank cases so the rods dont scrap as they spin. All stroker cranks require you do something with the clearance between the Piston and Cylinder Head. The most prefered method is using a cool head or stock head that has been cut deeper. Approx 2mm. The stoker crank causes the pistons to fall 2mm farther down, and pops up 2mm out of the cylinder. The other option is to use a thick 2mm spacer plate between the cylinders, and crank case. The bad thing with this is it alters the port timing. It causes all ports to open sooner wich might not be ideal with your current porting or riding style.

You dont really need to mess with brake lights. Little Sahara only requires you to have a Red Tail Light no brake light needed. I belive 2001 and newer had a Tail Light / Brake light combo but the older ones just have a small rectangle tail light. It is on all the time.

Well you need the following. Porting & Bore Wiseco 795 Series Pistons 4mill Long Rod crank 4mill Cool Head Domes Base & Clutch cover gaskets Engine Seal Kit Tube of Yamabond 4 Cool head (if you dont already have one) You can also skip the stroker domes, and cool head and have your stock head setup for the 4mill, and what fuel you want to run.

And that is the kind of comunication you get when you make a phone call.

First and fore most. I wouldn't even consider Email as a form of contact when your building a motor. Do you realize how many dreamers email site sponcers wanting to know how much stuff costs, discussing options, ect and never get back to them when it is time to pay up. If you want to be taken serious by people you have to pickup the phone. How do you know your really talking to who you think you are? Your only limiting your self by not picking up the phone. These are buisy guys and dont have time to sit around the computer, and phone waiting for emails, and calls to come in. #2. The 4 mill makes for a stronger midragne because it gives the conecting rods more leverage since the crank journals are moved farther out from the center line of the crank. It is like using a longer cheater bar on a tight bolt. You have two options when it comes to the stonger midrange. You can keep all the extra power in the midrange where it is at and have a good trail / midrange machine. Or you can give the power back in the form of more agressive porting to gain top end, but still maintain a good midrange. On a two stroke at some point your going to have to give power up some where to gain it some where else. So the extra midrange gain can be re invested in more top end but you will still have a stronger midrange than if you had no 4 mill crank. josh

Yea X2 hopefully the guys he sends them to really do test them out instead of just looking to score free parts.

I just use my chain breaker tool to press the side plate on.

Some body has to try one of these on a Drag Ported Cylinder, or Drag Ported Cub Cylinder to see if they get the usual high rpm miss or crusty running at high rpm. That was my issue with the Ricky Stator's. It just acted like it wasn't jetted right on the top end. I chased jetting all over the place unitl I swapped back to the stock OEM Yamaha stator. I dont know if it was the windings or just the pickup coil not being able to keep up.

How about what pipes are best thread.

A lot of these prices are outragious. Last barrel 55 gallon barrel I bought was $315 for Turbo Blue (wich is made by sunoco). I think a lot of the high prices are due to the sellers not getting it directly from the distributors. The more hands it changes the higher the cost because every body wants to make some money. VP can keep their fuel as far as I am concerned. Your just buying their expensive name. VP = Very Pricey

Another thing to watch with larger / longer radiators is make sure it isn't rubbing the steering stem on the back side.

Yea they look good but the main purpose is corosion resistance. It is like $109 for the same kit on ebay on with the gold chain. RK chains are good chain and last fairly well. I run them on the machines in my signature.

That is a bare steel chain. If you want the gold chain then it needs to be a GB520. With rk the GB means gold, if it doesn't start with GB then it is a standard steel chain.

Or you can piece your set together from Rocky Mountain for the same price and have a little better front sprocket. The chain is $79 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/958/-/3591/RK-520EXW-Gold-XW-RING-Chain Get a Rental or Super Sprox front sprocket for $20 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/957/1661/5928/Renthal-Front-Sprocket http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/957/1661/23006/Supersprox-Front-Sprocket Then a Primary Drive Rear for $20 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/957/1661/2192/Primary-Drive-Rear-Steel-Sprocket

I dont belive that is anodized and I wouldnt run a no name brand chain cause it looked cool (wich it doesnt really look cool any way. It looks cheap like some one painted their chain). If you want a colored chain then get the RK GB520EWX chain. The outer links are gold plated color to keep it from rusting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RK-Gold-Chain-and-JT-Sprocket-Kit-Yamaha-Banshee-350-/330744103667?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d01e282f3&vxp=mtr

Alpine Star Tech 3's with the ATV sole. Troy Lee Desings pants / zip off shorts. Mine dont have the lether inners but it is a different type of materal and hasnt melted on to my CPI's yet. The newer Rev Pants have leather on the right side but I dont know if the insides of the leges are different materal or not. I got my pants when TLD had the black sleeve, cammo body jerseys.

LockTight has a couple greens. One is a wicking forumula for parts that are already assembled. The other is a sleeve retainer wich is what the OP would want in this case. It is some tough stuff. I know a lot of guys put it on the splines of counter ballancers in 4 stroke builds.

I run mine on a stock transmission with shift pro kit and a modded shift star. I dont have any problems shifting. I like it for the fact that I can run all 6 OEM springs for an ez pull lever when stopped or taking off. For me just normal riding I dont really use the clutch except for down shifting. Here is a pic of my Direct Drive Lockup with Direct Drive's die cast cover.

I run a ProDesign radiator in my banshee. I don't know if they even make them any more. It deffinatly isn't a $100 radiator.

I went through 3 lexans using locktight. They would just start cranking out around the bolts. When I ordered the 3 lexan direct drive had me send them my billit ring. They told me the lock tight was the problem.

Lock Tight will ruin the lenxan. It will cause it to crack around all the bolt holes.

TM. Designwoks all the way. It is made out of a self lubercating plastic. I believe it is graphite impregnated.

I was wondering why that info went away. I never really got the whole 90 deg thing. I would think it would make for some serious vibrations. I would also think the small passages of an FCR carbs accelerator pump would plug up rather easly when using a caster oil.

Flat slide carburetor with an accelerator pump. They are not really used on Banshee's but just about every 450 bike or atv uses a Keihin FCR. He is just posting info on a bunch of ATV web sites to try to get a big data base going. There are some guys who do setup FCR's for a 2 stroke. I have seen a few pics from "The Two Stroke Shop" setup to run a pair of dual FCR's on a Banshee motor.

I would look in to Crank Works as well. http://crankworks.com/index.php/atv/atv-products