jbooker82

I got one of those ESR ones on my raptor. They are a great product. The only problem with the banshee is that the radiator hose that you need to put it in is the one that goes to the center of the head to the top of the radiator. Makes it impossible to read while riding. If you put it in the one that goes to the water pump then your reading the coolant temperature after it has been cooled through the radiator. Not really an accurate way to tell what operating temperature the engine is running at.

Do your self a favor and get your stock cylinders ported, and run the T5's that will be plenty of power. If your itching to spend some mony get a 4 mill long rod stroker crank and have the stock cylinders ported for the crank. Get a port job that matches your style of riding. 4mill stroker on the stock bore would be a 373cc. Ported stock cylinders and a 4 mill crank are a hard combination to beat. You say you dont want Drag Pipes. You do realize that CPI pipes are drag pipes right? If I was going to get a set of drag pipes I would get Shearers.

It would be cool if some one who gussets frams did a little write up to show where and how to gusset a frame. I know it is kind of basic procedure but might save some body who would have never thought to gusset a certian spot. josh

Yep drain it and complety flush it out with DOT 4 fluid.

I sold my FMF SST pipes to a guy in germany. It took almost a month to get it there. Do you have to fill out one of those 6 copy forms when you ship stuff from canada to us. If so that number on there should have a tracking number. Or that is how it was when I shipped my pipes to germany. The shipping to germany was 96 bucks for a set of pipes and silencers.

You should be able to get them at pretty much any hardware store. I would recomend buying your gauge first. Then go the the hardware store and see what you need. Mock it up so that way you dont buy a bunch of stuff that you dont need. Aslo make sure you dont go to big or you wont be able to get the radiator hoses to slip over the stubs of pipe. I think they uses brass fittings for pluming in gas lines. Propane, Natural Gas.

Bright lights are nice. I havent had any problems with my RS stator. Exectrax make a 250 watt one too. I dont have any experiance with those though.

It comes with the capaliary tube and the sending probe on the end. You just have to make the part that it threads in to. 1 Brass T, 2 Threaded pieces of pipe, and then you nedd a really shot piece of threaded pipe, the ones that are about an inch long and all theads, Then you need a Inside threaded piece. That way you can thread the adaptor that the gauge comes with to the short stubby pice of pipe. You can just screw the temp sending unit directly in to the T because it would block the flow. You use the short all threaded pice to move the temp sender up a little so it isnt blocking the flow. josh

No just the gauge. I made my own T out of a brass t fitting, and a couple of pieces of pipe. josh

Here is mine it is just a mechanical automotive temp gauges. You know those metal mounting hoops that they come with? Just straighten it out so it is flat. Notch out the corners so you can sandwitch it inbetween the upper and lower bar clamp.

That is a good idea I am going to consider that one.

I almost had a problem like that. Sold a set of FMF SST Power Core II Silencers. Specificaly stated that they fit SST pipes, becasue the sst pipes are longer so the silencer stinger tube is shorter. I sent them off to the buyer and get an email. They dont fit they are to short. I told him look at the auction that is what I said. Huge bold letters. ONLY FITS YAMAHA BANSHEE FMF SST PIPES. I asked him what I should do. Eat the costs of my ebay fees, paypal fees, and the free shipping that i payed for. I never herd back from him. The only good thing I can say is that he had the balls to admit he f d up by not fileing a paypal charge back. I have thought about taking paypal off my checking account and running it through my visa debit card. Thay way I could fight papal through visa's fraud. I think visa woudl fight harder than my local bank. josh

Why couldnt you do the same thing you do when you get a new oem replacement frame from yamaha. They do not have vin numbers. Just have the frame powdercated over the vin, and go throught the process just like you would as if you had a replacement frame. I am sure it involves getting a vin number. josh

Eastwood has every thing you need. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...mp;iSubCat=1445

Klotz Supertechniplate at 32:1 Supertechniplate is 80% Klotz synthetic oil and 20% Klotz Benol Caster Oil.

$29.99 Just take the mounting ring that it comes with and straighten it out. Cut the corners out and sandwitch inbetween the upper and lower handle bar mounts. It even has a light that comes on when the headlights are turned on. http://www.iequus.com/product_info.php?pro...gory_id=100_105

I re use mine with no problems. I just make sure I have a set on hand so if they look bad I can just throw the new set in.

What needles do you have in the carbs. I thin PWK 33's come with CGL's. I swaped mine out for CEL's and it helped out a lot. I got my jetting and mods in my sig. josh

So witch way do they go in then? Roled edge in or out?

I am glad you tell people this. I tried to tell them and they acted like i was crazy. Those cheap compression gauges with the adaptors that tread on to the main hose add volume to the combustion chamber. I used a graduated glass eye doper and found with my elcheapo compression gauge the adaptor added 3cc's to the combustion chamber. I have 19 cc domes in my banshee with port work done and fresh top end. With the cheap o compressin gauge I got a reading of 125psi in both cylinders. With my snap on gauge that I bought i got a reading of 150 psi in both cylinders. The extra 3cc's explains the difference between the two readings. It is not that the cheap o gague is crapy it just adds extra volum to the combustion chamber. Here is a link to my post. Compression Tester LINK

They cant come out. The ouside of the reed cage fits tight over the screws. They are not like the stock ones where the screw heads are just out in the opean.

I havent ever seen a digital one used on a atv. It would be harder to read when your hauling. Analog gauges you just glance down and see where the arrow is. You dont have to concentrate to try to read the accual lcd screen.

I had Jet Hot do my header on my raptor. Good quality and long lasting.

I went from FMF SST's to toomy T5's. I notices a change. They hit a littler higher in the rpm range and hit harder. If your looking for a night and day difference then I would get it ported then switch pipes.

maybe you just need to take the banshee out and opean it up. Blow that oil out instead of putting around. :yelrotflmao: