jbooker82

I just bought the T.M. Designworks one. I like the idea of it resting against the housing too. Those aluminum ones that look like they just bolt up with those 3 screws to the neutral switch triangle plate look like they could snap it off real easy. Just imagine your chain gets bound up in the case saver. The aluminum ones look like they would end up just bending and breaking the scews right off. The plastic one rests against the case. Plus the back of the case saver goes around the sprocket shaft. That is just one more way to support the top part of the case saver. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/custome...=255&page=1

I tried that didnt work. I had to get a new rh side toomey expansion chamber and i didnt do it to the replacement and they both blue the same way.

Most builders say to get new cylinders. By the time they opean the ports up for the stock stroke crank and go back and opean them up ferther the ports are to big. I am sure some builder could make due it just inst the Ideal thing. Your best bet for doing the stroker and keeping your cylinderes is getting the head cut or buying 4mm stroker domes. Dont run a plate.

There is 2 seals that are made. It could leak betweent the cylinders and the plate or the cases and the plate. If you didnt have a plate then it would just be between the cases and the cylinder. Why do you run a plate and have the head cut for the stroker crank?

:thumbsup:

Like Dajogejr said. No spacer plate is one less place for and air leak to happen. Your cylinders are ported for the stock crank now right? All the port timings are optimal. The ports all opean at the right time, makes for a smooth running engine. Throw that spacer plate in there and you have now just raised all the port highs. All the ports now opean sooner. It is like on any 4 stroke engine. Put the cam shaft in the engine a tooth off. Yea it will run. You might not notice it, but is it going to be the best thing for power? IF your cylinders are already ported and your going to do the stroker and not get different cylinders, the cut head is the only way to go. Other wise you just advance the ports 2mm (thickness of the spacer plate) to much.

Dog Catching :biggrin:

It should be a 1991 then.

what kind of carbs? Mikuni or Keihin

It bolts down to where the back of the air box does. It keeps the water bottle installed at the stock location. The plug ends go in to a spring loaded rubber sealed part so it keeps the ends clean. josh

I think HPI makes a atv body for there HPI Savage monster truck. It is 1/8 scale. You can get about any part for that savage monster truck. 3 speed transmissions, reverse, all kinds of stuff. $60 for the already painted one, or 36 for the clear one and you paint it however you want. www.hpiracing.com

You could try building your own at http://www.toyota.com . When my bro Ordered his 2006 Mustang GT he did it on fords web page. Then dealers contacted him if they had the car that he wanted. Off road they do ok but they drive like crap on Ice and snow. Since both tires spin the back end gets squirly. You about need 4 wheel dirve if you have a locker in the rear end. It helps keep the back from being so squirly. My 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt drive like crap in the wenter time. It does have wider tires and more hp under the hood than what your toyota, wich componds the problem even more.

Starting at the RH side of the vin# Count back 8 places. What is caracter is in the 8th position?

I am just messin :thumbsup:

Lone Star only warrenties it to the original purchaser. If you bought your machine and it had the axle alread on it. Your SOL unless you have the paper work. I have one on my banshee and the previous owner put it on. He gave me all the paper work for the warrenty. He said just pretend to me me and chang the shipping address if I have any problems.

You could take the extra 80 bucks you saved by buying the G Force and get a timing plate and have some body shave your cylinder head. More Mods :thumbsup:

I got a nice set of Chrome Tripple Plated Stock Pipes i would sell you. :biggrin:

Here is what I run. It holds a pair of spark plugs as well. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=9212

You run the 795 series Pistons for the long rod crank. You need them if you have a stock stroke long rod crank or a 4mill long rod crank. The Long Rod Cranks have con rods that are 5mm longer. So you need a piston that has the wrist pin 5mm closer to the top of the piston. As for the extra 4 mill stroke you need to run the spacer plate or run 4mill stroker cut domes. This is because the 4 mill stroker crank lets the piston drop 2mm down farther in to the cylinder at bottom dead center, and it comes up 2mm higher at topd dead center. So you ethire need to space the cylinders up 2mm and run a non stroker cut head. Or just have the head cut so it will allow the pistons to travel up 2 more mm. You would still have to do one of these if you ran a short (stock length) Rod stroker crank. You just wouldnt need the 795 series pistons. The long rod improves piston reliability. They reduce the side load on the piston skirts. Having the head cut is the better of the two. When you put the spacer plate under the cylinders that also advances the port timings. Some builders do port for 4mill cranks and plan on using a spacer plate with the stock non cut head. Most builders port the cylinders for running no spacer plate and then run domes cut for a stroker crank. Jeff at Fast or any other builder will be able to get you these domes. It really isnt that big of a deal. Those carbs will probably be to big unless your building an all out drag bike. If your going to be doing general riding aournd. The biggest I would go is 35mm PWK with a set of CPI pipes, or PWK 33's if your going to be running a pipe like toomey T5's

Your comparing plated metal to paint or powdercoating. Wich do you think will last longer? There is a reason why stuff that has to take abuse is chrome plated. Look at the Shafts that your front shocks have. FMF SST's 4 years or so old. I switch to T5's and dont have any pics of them. These pics were taken about 1 month before I upgraded to toomey's

You ethire need to cut the head or run the spacer plate. Cutting the head is the way better way to go. You dont really do anything to your head if you have a cool head. You just buy domes that are made for a 4mill stroker crank. Are your cylinders ported now?

I dont see why you couldnt if you dont mind messing around. The (R+M)/2 rating of E85 is 105. I would think it would be a little easier to deal with than methanol. Both Methanol and Ethanol attract water. What makes Methanol hard on aluminum is it crosive property with aluminum. That is why you have to purge your fuel system when your done riding. Ethanol would be easier on aluminum parts. Dont get me wrong they both can screw up a set of carbs if you leave fuel in them. I would just think Ethanol would be a little easier on them. There is a couple of local drag cars that run E85.

They wouldnt have been my choice of wheels ethier. The just came on the machine.

The banshee I bought has douglass on there. I am always bending the flange. I ride in a forest and the trails are tight. I brush a tree with the front tires and it bends the flange out. Most of the time I dont even know when it happend. Usually if you catch a tree and bend the wheel you remember when you did it. Not these they seem to be as soft as butter. I think the previous owner cheaped out and got blue or black lables, not the red .190's.

It should be fine for fire roads. You could buil a 4mill stroker for trail riding if you wanted. All depends on the port job. Are your cylinders ported right now, or are they stock porting? You dont need carbs right a way. Yes they will be a bottle neck but they are ealily changed later. There is always going to be somthing on your machine that is a bottle neck.