jbooker82

Your probably right on that one. That is kind of what I am afraid of now that I am getting the engine back to gether. No override yet ethire. I think I might try running around on the sand stars for a wile see how it goes. If the cylinders are to agressive for me then I will probably end up getting rid of them. thanks for your help. I really apprecate it. josh

I am getting ready to put together my engine. 400cc's (Maybe mid 60's for horespower :shrug: Not really sure. Could be more just being concervative) Patriot Racing Drag Ported cylinders. 66mm Bore 4mill Crank Keihin PWK33's with Boss Intake Toomey T5's (I know not the most Ideal pipes for the porting) Cool Head with Race Fuel Domes from patriot racing Timing set at +6 deg V Force reeds K&N Pods Direct Drive Lockup I was thinking about selling my sand stars to a friend and getting some skat track haulers or exteems. I wouldnt have the foggiest Idea on how many paddles to run. I would like to have a 20" tire on 10"rims, but I could probably live with 21"tire on a 10" rim. I dont really like the look of 22" in tires or 8" in rims. I dont really plan on drag racing other than just with friends. So pretty much my two tire sizes I was looking at was 20" or 21" tire on 10" rims. So how many paddles should I get if I change? Regular Haulers or Extreem Haulers? Or should I just keep the Sand Stars? I really apprecat any of the advice I can get from you guys. josh

I just bought a new rs flywheel. Hope that doenst happen to mine.

There isnt any real way to tell with out doing a compression check. I would think with 21 you should be ok on 93 with no timing advance.

Yea your pobably right. I just happen to come across a pair of 4mill ported cylinders that needed resleeved. They were ported by patriot racing. I sent them back to him and figured might as well have bigger sleeves installed since they were getting resleeved any way. I only got about 400 in the cylinders. I wouldnt have done it if the cylinders were not alread ported for the 4 mill crank.

I will be running 66mm blaster pistons, with a 4 mill long rod crank at 400cc. Had the cylinders resleeved starting out at 66mm and can go all the way up to 68mm wich is 420cc.

Like wes said. I would imagen your problems were caused by low octane fuel and detonation. You dont really eat the ground straps off the plugs by being lean. Wes knows his passion race engine jetting. :thumbsup:

kaotik1 Great guy to deal with. Got a powder coated frame from him. Excelent work and all around good guy to deal with. Answerws all of your pm messages. josh jbooker82

I figured WWII banshee would have olive drab plastic with the white stars on the sides of the fuel tank. You know like the old army jeeps? If you could get some cool black spray paint graphics with stuff like (GVW 386 LBS). Gross Vehicle Weight You know that kind of stuff you seen spray painted with stencles on old military vehicles. Army Green Canvis seat cover.

If your in 5 and 6 gear I would say your probably at WOT witch is the main jet. For being stock cylinder and stock stroke the main is pretty big. Most people run in between 152 and 158. I think the CGL needle comes with the 33's. A common needle to swap out to is the CEL. Same diameter and Taper just a little shorter in Lenght. If drop your needle clip postion and eventually run out of adjustment. Go to the CEL in the middle and clip and start over with adjusting the needle clip postion. Your pilot jet seems right on. Most people run a 48. Patriot Racing recomend that I start my jetting out at (165 main, CEL middle clip, 48 pilot) for my 400cc Drag Ported 4mill stock cylinders, and work my way down. That will give you kind of an Idea that 165 main is plenty big for a mx ported stock stroke cylinder.

I have herd some body complaining about bending or breaking any brand of axle. Why spend 400 on a chunck of steel when you can get one for 200. Not like an extended axle is a great engineering break through. :yelrotflmao:

The boss racing intake is much better. They lift the carbs up and out of the way of the clutch arm. That way you dont have to run reed spacers to keep the carb bowl from rubbing.

Man I am really going to feel sorry for the builder that you send your cylinders to be ported. After a few days and asking if they are done yet when most builders are back loged at least a month. :yelrotflmao:

G Force is a Rocky Mountain Atv brand. You can only get the axle through that company. What your saying is like if you have a problem with your yamaha banshee you send it back to the factory in japan vs. taking it to the yamaha dealer. I highly doubt that your getting around the place that straightens the axles and getting a replacement directly from the manufacturing company.

Is this the kit and guy you got them from? Fastnerguy Ebay LINK Looks like a good kit.

You might try to look in your cylinderd for junk that got sucked in through the exhaust. When they break that bad your banshee will start sucking air in from the exhaust. That is why you found that reed up in the carbs instead of in the cylinder.

Dont you remember the good old days when you were happy with a set of pipes and a few other simple bolt on's.

Get one of these tools from jeff at fast. They make syncing the carbs way easier and alot more accurate than going by looks. Fire it up with the carbs out in the opean. Warm the banshee up. Put it up to one carb. See what number it reeds. Check the other carb. Adjust idles unitl they read the same number. Now raise and hold the thottle. I took the cover off of my thumb throttle and put a little socket in between the lever that pulls the cable and the housing. That way it stays the same. The banshee should be reving pretty good. now measure each carb and adjust the cables at the tops of the carbs until you get the same readings for both carbs. Now the Idle is synced and the Slide lift is in sync. Carb Sync Tool from FAST LINK

Jeff at FAST will have what you need. www.farmandsandtoys.com

That would be the worst thing he could do. His cylinders are already ported. Thowing a 2mm thick plate under the cylinders will cause all of the port timings to be advanced. Probably advanced beyond the optimal point. Other wise the guy that ported the cylinders would have opeaned the ports up to that point. The best thing to do would be sell your cylinders and get a set of stock cylinders that havent been ported. You cant have a set of ported cylinders reported for a 4mill crank. If you want to try to run your cylinders that you have now I would get a set of domes that are made for a +4 mill crank. That keeps you from having to put the plate under the cylinders. You will also need 795 series pistons since the crank your going to be putting in is a long rod crank. josh

:biggrin: You need a spark plug lock from Trinity :biggrin: Just messing. If you did have a spark plug lock then you wouldnt even have known something was wrong until it didnt run any more.

They try to straighten them. I bent my LSR and they didnt get it straight. It is better than it was but the tire still wabbles. The rim isnt bent because it does it with my new sand tires on as well.

If you would have gotten the boss racing intake you wouldnt have needed to run reed spacers. They move the carbs up and out of the way of the clutch arm. Plus it has a built in crossover. I would say that the reeds go between the cylinders and reeds.

NEVER SATISFIED Bought a Pro Design Timing Plate and flywheel puller from him. He shipped it out right a way and answered all pm messages. Thanks again josh jbooker82

That setup looks like to be more of an auto clutch setup. Kind of like the Rekluse (however you spell it) for the 450's